High ammonia level

[Aiken Drum]

At some point you need to remove the zeolite. Its actively working against what you are trying to do. Once its absorbed all the ammonia there will be nothing to cycle the tank. Once its used up, all that ammonia will start to build up again.

You might think reducing the ammonia is helping, but nothing is dying and controlling ammonia with frequent water changes would be the way to go until either the ammonia stops leaching, or you identify whats causing it and remove it.

 

[Sladams]

Okay! Removing it now!

Should I get more bacteria to add?

 

[Aiken Drum]

You are using seachem aquavitro seed? Thats a product i have no personal experience of, and you are also the first person ive ever come across that has tried it. Its supposedly a better version of seachem stability, and stability is probably the worst of all these bottled bacteria products on the market.

I like Dr Tims One and Only, Tetra Safestart is essentially identical. But mostly these products tend to no nothing useful. Fritz products seem to come with the best recommendation.

Try and keep the ammonia from going above 2ppm. Once the ammonia isnt showing any more, either due to it not leaching anymore or your cycle establishing enough to remove whatever is leaching out, you will need to start dosing ammonia.

I would still look at changing the substrate if its determined to be the source of your ammonia problems.

 

[Sladams]

So, the plan is…

1. Remove Zeolite
2. Substrate test
3. Frequent water changes

Should I be dosing the water with the neutral regulator to manage pH, or is that not a concern at this point?

 

[Aiken Drum]

Chemically altering pH usually causes more problems than it solves. Stable pH is more important than trying to attain an ideal pH, and selecting fish that suits your water is better than trying to force your water to be somewhere it isnt.

If you arent happy with your tap water using RO filtered water and remineralising it to whatever parameters you want is the way to go.

 

[Sladams]

RO filtered water?

 

[Aiken Drum]

Reverse osmosis. Similar to distilled water. Its water thats had all it mineral content filtered out so its 90 to 99% pure water. There is a further stage, deionisation, (DI) that purifies the water further.

RO or RO/DI water then can have the mineral content added back so you can match the water to the fishes requirements. Its commonly done for marine tanks where you need to tailor the water to the needs of corals, and in freshwater when you have water with high mineral content and want to keep fish that do better in water with low mineral content. Or mixing RO with tap water will lower the mineral content of the tap water.

The problem with water isn't so much pH but mineral content. High pH/ high mineral content. Low pH/ low mineral content. Adding chemicals to lower pH just adds acid, it doesnt remove the mineral content. Your water wants to be at a particular pH level because of its mineral content, but you are adding acid to lower it which causes the pH fluctuations you should be trying to avoid.

Its far easier to raise pH by adding minerals than it is to lower pH. The only way to lower pH is to either add lots of acid or mix the high pH/ high mineral content water with low pH/ low mineral content water.

Its up to you obviously, but most knowledgable hobbyists dont try and chemically alter water.

 

[FeelinFroggy76]

do you have cichlids by chance?

I have alot of them, and albino african clawfoot frogs, all produce high ammonia...so Im told

 

[Aiken Drum]

do you have cichlids by chance?

I have alot of them, and albino african clawfoot frogs, all produce high ammonia...so Im told

OPs tank doesnt have anything alive in there yet. The ammonia is coming from something in their aquascape. Working assumption at the moment is that the substrate is a likely candidate.

 

[Sladams]

So…I did the substrate test. I put some gravel that was left in the original packaging and put it in a cup with tap water for approximately 24 hours. I tested the ammonia and it was off the charts. I’m really really dreading taking everything out and pulling out all the gravel. Is that avoidable? Or is it inevitable?

 

[Andy Sager]

So…I did the substrate test. I put some gravel that was left in the original packaging and put it in a cup with tap water for approximately 24 hours. I tested the ammonia and it was off the charts. I’m really really dreading taking everything out and pulling out all the gravel. Is that avoidable? Or is it inevitable?

At least now you know where it was coming from.
To not have to change your substrate: If your tank water's Ph is under 6.8, the ammonia is converted to ammonium which is much less toxic to the fish unless it is in really high levels ( higher than the average aquarium test kit reads ) or at higher temperatures. You would need to be very mindful not to do large volume water changes to make the Ph go above 6.8 and reverse the change back to toxic ammonia. Use certain live plants to help use and reduce the ammonium out of the water.

You HAVE to change your substrate: If your water's Ph is above 6.8, the ammonia will be toxic and you will be forever fighting a losing battle to keep it under control. It will not be safe for the fish to live in.

FYI: There is always a risk when you have a lower Ph and higher ammonium levels. It just takes 1 "oops" to reverse the conversion from ammonia to ammonium which can kill off the whole tank of fish from ammonia poisoning.

Hope this helps.

 

[SueB]

I'm so sad! After reading through all of the above conversation, I'm thinking my 4.0 ammonia and zero nitrites and nitrates may also be caused by my sand substrate. Thinking back, I didn't have the problem before adding the sand. OMG, removing it will be awful. I'm assuming I will have to empty the tank then remove it. I worry about my seeded filters. I'm so sad. Any thoughts on an easy way to accomplish all of this?

 

[SueB]

...obviously, I will be doing the substrate test!

 

[Aiken Drum]

I'm so sad! After reading through all of the above conversation, I'm thinking my 4.0 ammonia and zero nitrites and nitrates may also be caused by my sand substrate. Thinking back, I didn't have the problem before adding the sand. OMG, removing it will be awful. I'm assuming I will have to empty the tank then remove it. I worry about my seeded filters. I'm so sad. Any thoughts on an easy way to accomplish all of this?

Do you have fish in the tank?

 

[SueB]

Do you have fish in the tank?

No, I’m cycling for an axolotl.

 

[Aiken Drum]

How are you cycling the tank? You should be dosing ammonia anyway so if your substrate is releasing ammonia it isnt necessarily a bad thing. As long as it doesn't get too high, and as long as it stops leaching after a while it will save you a job of having to dose ammonia.

I would do water changes to keep the ammonia down to around 2ppm, and if it is still rising in a week or so, then consider changing the substrate. Substrate often stops leaching ammonia after a week or 2.

 

[SueB]

Thanks! Guess I'll just keep tabs on it for now. I'll test my sand tomorrow... let you know the results