High nitrites in 30L fry tank Brackish

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pineapples1

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
9
Hi I've just purchased my 4th tank and I'm experiencing something strange. I was wondering if anyone could help.

Sorry if it's drawn out a bit I just want to explain the situation.

Tanks I have are:

200L tropical with 30 or so assorted fish
Everything is perfect 10% water change once a week never had a spike.


20L shrimp tank
Same as above no problems

120L brackish SG 1.005 varies a little. 5 bumblebee Gobies
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451729291.367106.jpg

This is my first problem:

Ammonia test always goes cloudy but still yellow
Nitrites 0
Ph 8.2
Temp 28-29
KH 5-6

So do I need to purchase a salt water ammonia test kit for brackish?

Second problem:

Yesterday I purchased a 30L tank to put the goby shell inc eggs into. (To save my trying to catch the fry before they get eaten)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451729320.680914.jpg

Now I filled is 70% with brackish water from the 120L and topped the rest up from the tap. Using prime and easy life filter fluid medium.

I took the internal filter out of the 120L (still have a hob and a sponge filter in there) and put it in the 30L I also put another sponge filter in the 30L

A few hours later I test it just to be sure
Ammonia still cloudy but yellow
Nitrite .50ppm
Ph dropped to 8.0
Temp 28
KH 4

So can someone please tell me what to do about these nitrites?

I was planning to put the shell with the eggs and the male bumblebee goby in there tomorrow or the next day so I need a quick fix!

Would purigen work?
Or is there some type of bacteria culture you can buy to kickstart it?

I understand the problem is that it's not cycled properly but I thought using the filters from the cycled tank would fix that.

Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.




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So first question first;
No need for different test (of any kind) for brackish as ALL API kits work in both...
The real difference is in the color card although it is not an outstanding difference...
Here is a link to salt water cards!
Free Downloads | Pump & Filter Instructions | Test Kit charts

Next it does sound like you set up correctly to have a short or no cycle time...
Use of PRIME to convert ammonia or nitrite to less toxic form for fish until the filter is working properly.
Use prime every other day and expect while it(the prime) is in the system to still see the test register.
It converts it not removes it.
First post with all those tanks and experience????
Welcome to AA!
 
So first question first;
No need for different test (of any kind) for brackish as ALL API kits work in both...
The real difference is in the color card although it is not an outstanding difference...
Here is a link to salt water cards!
Free Downloads | Pump & Filter Instructions | Test Kit charts

Next it does sound like you set up correctly to have a short or no cycle time...
Use of PRIME to convert ammonia or nitrite to less toxic form for fish until the filter is working properly.
Use prime every other day and expect while it(the prime) is in the system to still see the test register.
It converts it not removes it.
First post with all those tanks and experience????
Welcome to AA!


Ok will do exactly that and daily water changes.

Is it a good idea to use the easy life as well as Prime?


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Many bogus threads and notions of Prime messing with bottled bacteria...
ALL untrue.
You will be fine using prime and any bottled bacteria.
If you continue to have issue with nutrients ,
Dr.Tims ;one and only' and Tetra Safe Start (TSS) are the only two bottled bacteria I trust.
Dr. Tim invented this product that so many others are now trying to copy...
 
Many bogus threads and notions of Prime messing with bottled bacteria...
ALL untrue.
You will be fine using prime and any bottled bacteria.
If you continue to have issue with nutrients ,
Dr.Tims ;one and only' and Tetra Safe Start (TSS) are the only two bottled bacteria I trust.
Dr. Tim invented this product that so many others are now trying to copy...


Just researching online and apparently they don't sell that stuff in Australia.

They applied for a licence and it has to get Gamma rays to clear customs kind of defeating the purpose.

Is there any alternative?

I found one called Aquasonic Bio Culture anyone heard of that?

Also would adding one of these starter cultures to my established tanks just beef up the performance? If that makes sense.


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Would taking the submersible filter out of my freshwater shrimp tank and putting it in the 30L brackish do the trick do you think?


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Bacteria for brackish and fresh water are different I believe , so I would not take sponge from shrimp tank(fresh) for the brackish...
Any brand of BB is hit or miss in many peoples opinions...
Possibly the brackish water is responsible for the slow start up and die off of bacteria thus the high enough ammonia to overwhelm the nitrite bacteria???
I think you will have to treat this like a fish in cycle???
Bio spira???
Way back ; marine bacteria....
New version.....
Bio-Spira® Saltwater Aquarium Bacteria Set Up Care | Instant Ocean
Not sure if you can get this over there???

Your readings are pretty low although zero is most desirable,possibly as you mentioned Purigen may also help...
It is a good propduct IMO and certainly won't hurt...
 
Bacteria for brackish and fresh water are different I believe , so I would not take sponge from shrimp tank(fresh) for the brackish...

Any brand of BB is hit or miss in many peoples opinions...

Possibly the brackish water is responsible for the slow start up and die off of bacteria thus the high enough ammonia to overwhelm the nitrite bacteria???

I think you will have to treat this like a fish in cycle???

Bio spira???

Way back ; marine bacteria....

New version.....

Bio-Spira[emoji768] Saltwater Aquarium Bacteria Set Up Care | Instant Ocean

Not sure if you can get this over there???



Your readings are pretty low although zero is most desirable,possibly as you mentioned Purigen may also help...

It is a good propduct IMO and certainly won't hurt...


Yeah I'll check it out but think I'll have to stick to the prime every two days and WCs

I've made a bio filter from another one I had (about 6 months old) and basically made two of them this one needed to be shorter to be under the waterline so it looks a bit dodgy but will do the trick.

I put half of the active K1 media in with some fresh media and stuck that onto the sponge filter with a small modification so the air hose can come out of the bottom.

I clipped a month old Purigen bag on top just hanging in the tank.

Rough fix but best I could do at 11pm I might go out and buy some fresh purigen tomorrow.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451742096.148693.jpg


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Just did a test pre water change and it's looking much better already
Ammonia 0
Nitrite .25
Ph 8

So after a 20% water change can only get better.

Thanks for your help.


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That's so cool! How did you get the gobys to breed? Didn't know they do in captivity.
 
5 gobies in a 120L with plenty of caves and hiding spots and some twisted vallisneria.

I just did daily water changes slowly changing the SG between 1.002 and 1.005 until I saw the mating behaviour.
It took a full day and about 50 attempts between two males to get the egg Filled female to finally lay eggs.
Ph 8.2
Temp 28-29
KH 5-6

Food blackworms, baby brine shrimp, microworms.

My blackworm culture is actually pretty cool
Have a look.

https://vimeo.com/150965229


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Pineapples dude i think you linked the wrong video might just be my phone though


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To me it looks like a party bus. Here have a look. ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1452898987.597715.jpg


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No idea how that happened.

Absolutely gutted today the gobies laid eggs again and I couldn't find the male last night so I just assumed he was in the shell. This morning I noticed a different male was in the shell so I got in and started moving things around and found the male that was guarding the eggs had got himself stuck behind a rock and the glass so now I have to self incubate these eggs a second time F#£€


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