how to connect regulator to co2 cylinder?

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u screw it on lol. thats just about it. if there is an on off valve on the cylinder already then simply attach the regulator then open the tank. i may not be understanding the question though.
 
With a big wrench.

Tightly.

Tighter than that.

Nope, you just lost 1/2 your CO2, tighter!

Unfortunately, they don't make a "torque crescent" wrench, but I believe the target is 100 ft. lbs.
 
It does not need to be super tight. I use teflon tape on the threads and have mine just snug, and no leaks. I don't want to have to use a torque wrench to get it off after sitting 6 months or longer. It just needs to be tight enough not to leak.

Then once it's on, follow the instructions for opening the valves. You don't want to blow any of the meters out. Follow it step by step.
 
Thanks, wolf. I'll try the teflon tape next time. I just seemed that it really wanted to leak until I cranked the connector HARD.
 
That seems odd, src. Are you missing a O-Ring on that, or maybe have damaged threads? I've dealt with a lot of CO2 and compressed air tanks from a few ounces to fifty pounds, and never seen a tank designed to need that kind of treatment.

Of that tanks that did behave like that, the most likely problem was a pinched, cut, misaligned, or missing O-ring. Rare, but second most likely was damaged threads (generally, along with a damaged O-ring). Even a very small, barely noticable cut can cause leaks.

FWIW, you're being overcharged for a replacement O-Ring if they charge you 50 cents.
 
You could put antisieze on the threads if you are worried about getting them off. but for torque, I used my fingers and a cloth type washer.. haven't had an issue yet. (and no leaks might I add)

Tighter is no always better. Sometimes it's just bad positioning of the Oring.. My tank also has a slight groove for the oring to sit..
 
src said:
Thanks, wolf. I'll try the teflon tape next time. I just seemed that it really wanted to leak until I cranked the connector HARD.

Even my instructions for my regulator said to use it on the threads. Works great and I don't need to crank on it. Also, there's a plastic piece that goes in the regulator before you screw it on, and it needs to be in properly. If put in backwards, it will leak also.

Wizzard~Of~Ozz said:
Tighter is no always better. Sometimes it's just bad positioning of the Oring.. My tank also has a slight groove for the oring to sit..

I agree. I use a crescent wrench on mine and just use 2 fingers to snug it and that's it. Not even close to cranking on it. :)
 
Well, I am using the washer - even have a spare. And the 100 ft. lbs. is from the regulator's documentation. Strange.
 
Not really that strange. But I would be hesitant to connect any brass threaded object @ 100ft/lbs (I believe that is tighter then a lugnut on a tire).

I didn't use the plastic washers, I picked up tthe proper cloth ones when I got my tank (It's like layered nylon and some other material) dark grey in colour.
 
nobody mentioned this, but you wanna make sure your regulator is 'off'...the knob is turned so it allows no CO2 to escape.

this is important so you don't damage the regulator when you open the valve on the cylinder. the insides of the regulator need to kinda pressurize first, before you open the regulator to release CO2 inot the tank.
 
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