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WatchTower

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Messages
3
Location
TN
New Fish Stock I Need Your Advice

According to the paper work that comes with the Kh & gH test kit it states with what the kH & gH should be in range. And there is noway I can just use my tap water only of 3 kH & 3 Gh. I know this because I have loss Gourami's and Bolivian Rams in the past by just using my tap water alone of just 3. About the only thing I know that can live in a kh & gH from my tap of only 3 is discus and plants and neon's, Everything else seems to always die.

This is why I am confused and why I am trying to do it right. SeaChem Alkaline Buffer is designed to raise the pH and keep it stable and SeaChem Equilibrium is designed to raise the gH which would be the calcium is my understanding. As of right now I do know a kH of 5 and a gH of 7 doesn't seem to bother the Zebra Danios I have 6 of them and they seem happy in the tank presently. If it is recommended that I do a water change and just use my tap water alone of just 3 kH & 3 gH I will but when the manufacturer list information as to what I should do this is where I always get confused.

Obviously they designed these products and or tested them or other fish owners would not be using them too. I am presently working on a 20 gallon long freshwater tank it has sand substrate Manzanita wood Amazon Swords Water Sprite and Java Moss and the tank temp is 77 and I am running a Aqua Clear 50. The total stocking I am wanting to add or will be adding to this tank is as follows. 6 Zebra Danios 4 Ghost Shrimp and 5 Mystery Snails nothing else has came to my mind but I am sure I am under stock. Your thoughts.

kH & gH Range freshwater Aquarium Life

0°-3° (0-50 ppm) discus, arowanas, elephantnose, neons, cardinals, live plants

3°-6° (50-100 ppm) Most tropical fish including angelfish, cichlids, tetras, botia, live plants

6°-11° (100-200 ppm) Most tropical fish including swordtails, guppies, mollies, goldfish

8 -12 ( 140-200 ppm) Marine fish and invertebrates

11°-22° (200-400 ppm) Rift lake cichlids, goldfish, brackish water fish

Is there no feedback on this site? Is it not active? If not please remove me as a member. Thank You
 
I don't understand your question. If you know the required Gh and KH and pH fof your fish then achieve it. What you want to ask here?
 
I use equilibrium when I was running ro water in my my tanks. That on is mainly used for planted tanks it does work to stabilize the ph which can drop out really fast and kill your bb with ro water. With the snails your going to want more calcium in the water but what is it exactly that you are trying to achieve as far as your gh and kh lvls. Is there a specific number you are looking for?
 
I don't understand your question. If you know the required Gh and KH and pH fof your fish then achieve it. What you want to ask here?

I will make it clearer then. The question I have should I keep the Alkaline Buffer at kH 5 and the Equilibrium at gH 7 Or should I do a water change and just try to use only my tap water of kH 3 and gH 3 for this fish stock? I really don't see anything living at that but have had people tell me it is okay or should I increase the kH 5 and gH 7 presently even higher for the total fish that will be going into the tank now? My stock will be 6 Zebra Danios 4 Ghost Shrimp 5 Mystery Snails and nothing else at this time.

You are well aware just like I am that thousands of other users have a opinion on what way one should do something, Everyone always wants to be smarter then someone else but know one really wants to explain them self's about it very well as to why his or her way is better. I am doing a stock of fish that obviously all require something more then the other,

So I am seeking advice and knowledge on how to make this stock work. If it isn't clear enough contact me MODERATORS and I will send you and your forum a much more detailed book on the subject in regards too. What is my objective not to know everything but to know what will work and who has also done it with results. I don't own snails or shrimp therefore I ask. You can look online there are thousands of links on them both and all say something different, How sad but very true. Well each way cant be the right way lol Thank You
 
I will make it clearer then. The question I have should I keep the Alkaline Buffer at kH 5 and the Equilibrium at gH 7 Or should I do a water change and just try to use only my tap water of kH 3 and gH 3 for this fish stock? I really don't see anything living at that but have had people tell me it is okay or should I increase the kH 5 and gH 7 presently even higher for the total fish that will be going into the tank now? My stock will be 6 Zebra Danios 4 Ghost Shrimp 5 Mystery Snails and nothing else at this time.

You are well aware just like I am that thousands of other users have a opinion on what way one should do something, Everyone always wants to be smarter then someone else but know one really wants to explain them self's about it very well as to why his or her way is better. I am doing a stock of fish that obviously all require something more then the other,

So I am seeking advice and knowledge on how to make this stock work. If it isn't clear enough contact me MODERATORS and I will send you and your forum a much more detailed book on the subject in regards too. What is my objective not to know everything but to know what will work and who has also done it with results. Thank You
First of all why are you so hyper? This is a forum. People don't owe you a reply. If they are replying you than take it as a favor. Be humble when you ask for advice.

A Gh of 3 and a KH of 3 yes fish can survive but you should Google and look what is preferred Gh and KH of your live stock and slowly achieve that by Seachem equilibrium or any other conditioner you select. Remember that more important is to have a stable water than fluctuating water parameters. Your GH is very low and it needs to be increased. KH at 3 can be ok. Depends on your substrate as well. You can increase Gh of your existing tap water or if you want full control over your water parameters go for RO or Distilled water and remineraliz it with conditioners as you prefer. But in your case you can use tap water as well and use equilibrium to increase Gh.
 
GH/KH are less of a worry with most fish. Were they come into play is in their ability to buffer the water against ph swings if it goes to low which I am sure you know it will stall or kill the bacterial filter. I am still learning a lot of this but more in regards to the planted tanks with co2 injection. I have the opposite problem with extremely hard water 550ppm I have learned that most fish with proper acclimation handle tap water conditions regardless of what they are very well. More important is that the water have stability.
 
First of all why are you so hyper? This is a forum. People don't owe you a reply. If they are replying you than take it as a favor. Be humble when you ask for advice.

A Gh of 3 and a KH of 3 yes fish can survive but you should Google and look what is preferred Gh and KH of your live stock and slowly achieve that by Seachem equilibrium or any other conditioner you select. Remember that more important is to have a stable water than fluctuating water parameters. Your GH is very low and it needs to be increased. KH at 3 can be ok. Depends on your substrate as well. You can increase Gh of your existing tap water or if you want full control over your water parameters go for RO or Distilled water and remineraliz it with conditioners as you prefer. But in your case you can use tap water as well and use equilibrium to increase Gh.

Oh I am humble, But I also know Gouramis and Bolivian Rams will not live in just my tap water of 3 kH and 3 gH I tried it and loss over 20 each. I cant even fish less cycle a tank unless I dose at least 5 kH of Alkaline Buffer each time, You can imagine the amount of money I spend on products just to try to enjoy the hobby. I have sand substrate and plants but don't use Co2 of any kind.
 
As noted above, add crushed coral to your power filter, or hardscape your tank with Limestone. Stay away from ph altering chemicals. They seldom stablize and often have a rebound effect. Limestone will naturally raise your PH and buffer against a ph crash.
If your fish store is close, they likely deal with similar water issues. You might contact the store manager and learn how they deal with the problem.
 
Oh I am humble, But I also know Gouramis and Bolivian Rams will not live in just my tap water of 3 kH and 3 gH I tried it and loss over 20 each. I cant even fish less cycle a tank unless I dose at least 5 kH of Alkaline Buffer each time, You can imagine the amount of money I spend on products just to try to enjoy the hobby. I have sand substrate and plants but don't use Co2 of any kind.
I can understand. I am also spending a lot on keeping Taiwan Bee Shrimps because of there specific water requirements. Usually fish can adapt to many water conditions but I do see your gH is very low yes. You need to increase it. Maybe you can find out some other tap water source near you. But if you have a large tank it would be difficult to carry and store high volume of water. So just raise your gH and your fish will be fine. 5 or 6 Gh is fine.

Also rams like warm water I am sure you are aware and rams are a little sensitive. Many people having trouble keeping them alive regardless of there good water parameters even. They need plants to hide and warm water and a junk food diet like bloodworms to increase there appetite when they are newly arrived since they are picky and finicky eaters.

You can also use Gh kh plus reminilizers which they make for shrimps. Both powder and liquid. You can find one which only increase Gh like Bee salt gh+ or you can find liquid like sl aqua blue wizard for Gh+ or red for both Gh and KH +

I understand its frustrating but when your water levels will be fine you will feel so much peace that you are now good to go.
 
Stop wasting time with GH /Kh test and get a TDS meter...
The chart and listing of values you have is questionable at best..
I breed and raise rams ..I breed in my RO water with a remineralized TDS of less then 100 ,but I raise them in my tap which is 7.6 ph /3 kh/9gh with a TDS of 350+

Obviously my rams are not rift lake cichlids so the chart is not correct..
Marine fish 140 -200 !? My TDS meter does not go high enough for my marine tank...It only goes to 999......I have mixed ro and kept marine fish for decades now....
IMO your fish should love your soft water ...Livebearers would not dig it but most other 'non hard water fish' will be fine...
Soft water takes longer to cycle so is your tank cycled completely?
Personally with making my own water for breeding [everyday] I will say I would stay clear of all the buffing products and spend some time learning about water chemistry...
Coral or Texas holey rock [or other limestone rocks] are the best NATURAL choice to buff your water.
Low KH means when you buff the ph will bounce back to very close to original...The swings are more stressful to fish then just letting them acclimate to what your water is...
I would change water using only tap and slowly convert the tank back to just your source water and find out what your TDS is...
 
Stop wasting time with GH /Kh test and get a TDS meter...
The chart and listing of values you have is questionable at best..
I breed and raise rams ..I breed in my RO water with a remineralized TDS of less then 100 ,but I raise them in my tap which is 7.6 ph /3 kh/9gh with a TDS of 350+

Obviously my rams are not rift lake cichlids so the chart is not correct..
Marine fish 140 -200 !? My TDS meter does not go high enough for my marine tank...It only goes to 999......I have mixed ro and kept marine fish for decades now....
IMO your fish should love your soft water ...Livebearers would not dig it but most other 'non hard water fish' will be fine...
Soft water takes longer to cycle so is your tank cycled completely?
Personally with making my own water for breeding [everyday] I will say I would stay clear of all the buffing products and spend some time learning about water chemistry...
Coral or Texas holey rock [or other limestone rocks] are the best NATURAL choice to buff your water.
Low KH means when you buff the ph will bounce back to very close to original...The swings are more stressful to fish then just letting them acclimate to what your water is...
I would change water using only tap and slowly convert the tank back to just your source water and find out what your TDS is...
But I believe mostly fish can tolerate high tds. I would worry more about such low Gh. 3 is very very low.
 
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