Lighting Questions`

[Etunes]

OK, i am sure you all have seen me posting and asking about lighting. I think this is the most irratating thing in aquaria i have ever ran into. So i need help. I know about T5s and metal halides, I don't really know the diffrence but i know there both what i want. My tank is a 90 gallon corner tank and is 25" deep. So it is pretty deep. So because of this i hear that metal halides are the best. I am wanting to eventually build a reef thats why i am so interested in the lights. So tell me what i need and whats best. I like alot of the SPS, LPS hard and soft corals, polyps, and sea fans. O ya, don't forget about the anenome down the road. So ya, I like ALOT of corals and want to be able to keep about anything i want. So please tell me what the best lighting would be to get.

I would like to avoid building a canopy to hold the lightng because this is a corner auarium i imagine this being very difficult and barely have time for school as it is.

I was looking at this for medal halide and with Ballast as well (i wonder if i could find them together?):
250/400W HQI Double Ended Pendant by IceCap - AquaCave
IceCap 400 Watt Electronic Metal Hallide Ballast

And this for t5:
Aquarium Lighting for Reef Systems: Current Nova Extreme Pro Saltwater T-5 Fixtures

 

[Zer0]

Well if your avoiding a canopy then i think the pendant would be a better choice. Maybe look for a fixture that you can hang above the tank.

And yeah, 25" is pretty deep, so im not sure you will be able to stray far from the MH lights. You might be able to get away with something like the Nova Extreme Pro. Or the Nove Extreme model with 8 bulbs. But even with those lights your selection of corals may be limited. Im thinking that if you want to be able to support every single type of coral AND anemone, then MH lighting would be your best bet at supporting all coral life.

 

[HN1]

I agree. A MH pendant will probably be where you need to look if you want to keep SPS and a nem. Probably a dual 250 or 400.

 

[Etunes]

Well if your avoiding a canopy then i think the pendant would be a better choice. Maybe look for a fixture that you can hang above the tank.

And yeah, 25" is pretty deep, so im not sure you will be able to stray far from the MH lights. You might be able to get away with something like the Nova Extreme Pro. Or the Nove Extreme model with 8 bulbs. But even with those lights your selection of corals may be limited. Im thinking that if you want to be able to support every single type of coral AND anemone, then MH lighting would be your best bet at supporting all coral life.

Its not that i am avoiding it. I have a top that already goes on it. I made it sound like that didnt I. I didnt mean that, Its just that i dont see why i need to make a canopy when i have 1 that goes with the stand. So i will proably have to come up with a rigged system to hold the lights in the canopy. Actually i cant really call it a canopy. It is more like a Cover to make it look like 1 big peace of furniture with fish in it. I hope that made since.

But ya, i dont't think that i can stray from the MH lighting either. I just want to know if this would work or if something else would be better. Because the light is the next thing i am working on after the sump. So i am trying to do a little financial planning.

*EDIT*
HN1, I was planning to go for the 400. Can i keep most corals you think with this lighting?

 

[Zer0]

Well, lights are expensive. And although its probably the worst part for a reef aquarist, it is essential. So, in this case, since you looking to house all forms of coral life, you dont have much of a choice. If you narrow down your selection of corals, then by doing that,you are also narrowing down your selection of lighting. You want them all, you gota go for the all in lighting. You want some, then you may only need some lighting. Its all up to you.

Btw, you can always try and hang the fixture from the inside of the canopy. Just make sure its bolted down correctly. Same thing goes if you hang it from your ceiling. Dont want all those expensive lights to come crashing down. :/

 

[fishmonkey]

i was wondering when you were going to start a lighting thread lol

 

[HN1]

*EDIT*
HN1, I was planning to go for the 400. Can i keep most corals you think with this lighting?

Yes. Height of light and corals may need to be adjusted, but I think it should work.

Btw, you can always try and hang the fixture from the inside of the canopy. Just make sure its bolted down correctly. Same thing goes if you hang it from your ceiling. Dont want all those expensive lights to come crashing down. :/

We're going to go with a similar design to this for the frag tank. Yet Another EMT Light Hanger - DIY Aquarium Projects - Aquatic Plant Central. I can't find the actual plans to save my life right now, but basically it's bent electrical conduit secured to the tank stand. Seems more secure to me than hanging from either the canopy or ceiling. Also, probably a repetitive caution, but make sure that anything you have drawing that much power is on a GFCI and has drip loops etc.

 

[fishmonkey]

yeah, im sure you havent been shocked badly before and beleive me, you DO NOT want to be shocked really bad.

 

[Zer0]

HN1, i wouldnt mind seeing those plans once you ever get a hold of them. Sound prety interesting. Btw, how big is the frag tank you and SM have? And so, basically, you guys are going to go with the pendant? but are just going to secure it instead of hang it? Seems like a better plan to me than hanging anything.

 

[InfernoST]

Yes. Height of light and corals may need to be adjusted, but I think it should work.




We're going to go with a similar design to this for the frag tank. Yet Another EMT Light Hanger - DIY Aquarium Projects - Aquatic Plant Central. I can't find the actual plans to save my life right now, but basically it's bent electrical conduit secured to the tank stand. Seems more secure to me than hanging from either the canopy or ceiling. Also, probably a repetitive caution, but make sure that anything you have drawing that much power is on a GFCI and has drip loops etc.

IMO, If you are going to use electrical tubing I wouldn't use EMT for 2 reasons, #1 Its thin wall tubing and will fail easily if to much weight is applied, like grabbing it by accident if you should slip, #2 It will rust pretty quick. I would us thick wall threaded aluminum, it's much stronger and will slowly bend where as the EMT would just fail in an instant and it wont rust.
By the way lighting in marine aquaria stinks. Remember that dreadful thread I started just trying to find out the difference and basis for watts per gallon formula, I thought my head was going to explode. If you want to go down memory lane I've included the link. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/question-about-the-watts-per-gallon-formula-117853.html

 

[HN1]

yeah, im sure you havent been shocked badly before and beleive me, you DO NOT want to be shocked really bad.

I have, not fun but preferable to burning your house down.

HN1, i wouldnt mind seeing those plans once you ever get a hold of them. Sound prety interesting. Btw, how big is the frag tank you and SM have? And so, basically, you guys are going to go with the pendant? but are just going to secure it instead of hang it? Seems like a better plan to me than hanging anything.

It's a 48x12x12. We picked up a 400W Hamilton Pendant for it. I trust the 2x4's a lot better than I do the dry wall....

IMO, If you are going to use electrical tubing I wouldn't use EMT for 2 reasons, #1 Its thin wall tubing and will fail easily if to much weight is applied, like grabbing it by accident if you should slip, #2 It will rust pretty quick. I would us thick wall threaded aluminum, it's much stronger and will slowly bend where as the EMT would just fail in an instant and it wont rust.
By the way lighting in marine aquaria stinks. Remember that dreadful thread I started just trying to find out the difference and basis for watts per gallon formula, I thought my head was going to explode. If you want to go down memory lane I've included the link. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/question-about-the-watts-per-gallon-formula-117853.html

Agreed. That was just the closest "look" I could find on short order.

BTW- that link needs to be permanently banned from the site. My head exploded a few times in empathy!

 

[InfernoST]

I have, not fun but preferable to burning your house down.



It's a 48x12x12. We picked up a 400W Hamilton Pendant for it. I trust the 2x4's a lot better than I do the dry wall....




Agreed. That was just the closest "look" I could find on short order.

BTW- that link needs to be permanently banned from the site. My head exploded a few times in empathy!

ROFL . Wasn't that a great thread?

 

[Etunes]

250/400W HQI Double Ended Pendant by IceCap - AquaCave
IceCap 400 Watt Electronic Metal Hallide Ballast

So you think these would be perfect? With a hanging system?

Or i could get the whole system:
http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2243

 

[HN1]

Those looks like good options. I'm cheap though and would be looking for them used.

 

[thincat]

You would still have to remove the stock top that came with your unit. The MH need to be further above your tank then the stock canopy would allow. If the MH is to close to your tank it will fry your fish and corals from the heat it puts out. Because your tank is so deep your only out is MH. T-5's have a penatration of only max 18".

 

[InfernoST]

250/400W HQI Double Ended Pendant by IceCap - AquaCave
IceCap 400 Watt Electronic Metal Hallide Ballast

So you think these would be perfect? With a hanging system?

Or i could get the whole system:
Aquarium Specialty

You could try this for a ballast BallastWise - HID E-B DXE400HID1
It's cheaper. Nice looking pendant but a bit pricey, I bought the 2 reflectors at aquacave it was much cheaper 250W Metal Halide HQI Parabolic Reflector with Lens - AquaCave
I believe it also accommodates the 400 watt lamp as well. And don't forget the lamps, I got these Phoenix 250W 14,000K Metal Halide Lamp, Double Ended - AquaCave

 

[Etunes]

You would still have to remove the stock top that came with your unit. The MH need to be further above your tank then the stock canopy would allow. If the MH is to close to your tank it will fry your fish and corals from the heat it puts out. Because your tank is so deep your only out is MH. T-5's have a penatration of only max 18".

Ok, i plan to go with the MH lamps. But how far above do you think i need them over the water?

You could try this for a ballast BallastWise - HID E-B DXE400HID1
It's cheaper. Nice looking pendant but a bit pricey, I bought the 2 reflectors at aquacave it was much cheaper 250W Metal Halide HQI Parabolic Reflector with Lens - AquaCave
I believe it also accommodates the 400 watt lamp as well. And don't forget the lamps, I got these Phoenix 250W 14,000K Metal Halide Lamp, Double Ended - AquaCave

I agree with all of this. But the reflectors you show only go to 250W and i think that the 400W would be better. I dont see anything that indicates it can handle 400W. Got any other cheaper reflectors?

 

[mdaniel2882]

I didnt mean that, Its just that i dont see why i need to make a canopy when i have 1 that goes with the stand. So i will proably have to come up with a rigged system to hold the lights in the canopy.

you need a retofit kit for the canopy. almost every lighting company makes them. how about a 400 watt MH for $120.00

Aquatic Lighting Systems - Metal Halide Lighting Retro Fit Kits

 

[thincat]

Md, he does not have a canopy. He has a stock top and it is much to low for MH. MH need to be at least 18" about the water or he'll heat the water up way to much as it is with a MH unit he might still need a chiller.

 

[InfernoST]

I believe it will take both the 250 and 400 watt bulbs. You can call them to find out.