Lighting your reef... Best bang for your buck.

[oyf709]

I think it is running at 100%, cuz it wouldn't be fair to compare a 90% LED to MH and T5 as those are only can run at 100%.

 

[mr_X]

Yes, full power.

 

[Paglaum22]

So if they have the same result at their fullest, a dimmable LED isn't really necessary at all...

 

[mr_X]

It's necessary if you want to acclimate corals, or keep LPS and softies and don't have the need to run it at full power, or have a very shallow tank and still want the look and shimmer of LEDs, or, want to tweak the color a bit and run less/more blue than white...

Logan from ReefBreeders sent me optics and 2 royal blues to replace the reds. I'm going to post new PAR numbers after installing the optics, for those who are wondering. I'll also take a couple side by side comparison shots so you can see the spread.

 

[Animal-Chin]

Having the 2 dimmable over my tank is great. on the right I'm blasting 100% for my sps and on the left, I have mostly LPS So I have the blue at 100% to make the colors pop and the whites at 50%.

I have to say, unless I'm crazy, the lights have changed color since I got them. The first week the reds were over powering making a very distinct pink hew in the tank. The pinkness is almost gone now and the tanks is much more blue/white. I dont know why this is, maybe new LED's have a short break in period before you get the real look?

Either way, i LOVE the new LED lights over my old T5's. The growth in the coral in 3 weeks is very noticable.

 

[mr_X]

Since I have both straight blue/white, and the colored models over my tank side by side, I'm not getting used to it. I still see it. I've only been using the colored model for a short time, so I don't have any data on whether coral growth is more or the same with the extra colors.
I agree, that neither look bad. I just like the "crispness" of the blue/whites.

 

[oyf709]

Since I have both straight blue/white, and the colored models over my tank side by side, I'm not getting used to it. I still see it. I've only been using the colored model for a short time, so I don't have any data on whether coral growth is more or the same with the extra colors.
I agree, that neither look bad. I just like the "crispness" of the blue/whites.

lol that is why I always call the red and green LED the "eye candy". It is really nothing but personal preference. I like the royal blue kinda blue which is more closer to purpleish looking. I don't like any extra color myself, however, I can see why some people like the red spectrum in the light to create balance. Especially those had freshwater and never have a saltwater aquarium before would sometiems hard to get use the super blue looking tank.

 

[Magma]

Logan from ReefBreeders sent me optics and 2 royal blues to replace the reds. I'm going to post new PAR numbers after installing the optics, for those who are wondering. I'll also take a couple side by side comparison shots so you can see the spread.

I would like to see the difference myself, I think it will help with which model I actually end up buying.

 

[CorallineAlgae]

So if they have the same result at their fullest, a dimmable LED isn't really necessary at all...

Lower power use, less heat, easy to acclimate corals with dimming, instant custom color blending with separate blue and white channels, higher penetration with optics, no bulb replacements, gradual sunrise and sunset options with some models... Not necessary at all but it's a very big leap from either MH or T5s.

 

[don_chuwish]

I've finally found a fixture that I hope suits my needs. I wanted dimmable, but not critical to have the morning/evening fade in fade out feature. I wanted it to have moonlights - just a few blues on so I don't have to DIY them separately. And even though I have an Apex Light controller, I was really happy to find it with a built in timer to control the 3 different channels - white, actinic & moon. This means one power cord instead of 3. Apex Power Bars ain't cheap! It's a "TaoTronics" dimmable body type & Bridgelux 3W LEDs, but with the timer built in. Barely used, bought on eBay and should be here middle of next week. I'll be sure to report back, even comparing some pics with the various lighting scenarios I've tried so far (over my 36G bow):

1. Stock plastic strip light fixture upgraded to 55W 50/50 CF & good reflector (A H Supply)
- Plus DIY LED strips for moonlighting, stuck in the reflector
- This looks good and is plenty for softies - light is about 1" over the water

2. Aqua Medic 250W MH 20K bulb.
- Too strong to run all day, only switching to it for a few hours mid day from the CF
- Troublesome to switch back & forth but it really has made a BIG difference in coral growth
- Heavy shadow from center brace

3. 2 x Par38 bulbs experiment
- Too much $$ for not enough light

 

[Robbiesamp]

With 90 degree optics, par is about 280 at 24" down, 1300 just below the surface.
This is from Logan With Reef Breeders
I hope this helps

 

[Robbiesamp]

This is what Logan From Reef Breeders had to say!!
With 90 degree optics, par is about 280 at 24" down, 1300 just below the surface.
HOPE THIS HELPED !!!

 

[Robbiesamp]

Sorry didn't know it sent the first time !!

 

[oyf709]

With 90 degree optics, par is about 280 at 24" down, 1300 just below the surface.
This is from Logan With Reef Breeders
I hope this helps

So for 200W it gives you 280 at 24", that is kind of what I meant, here is a old PAR reading of the Zetlight 144W fixture, also using bridgelux and it was 90 degree or 120 degree lenses, but I forgot the exact optic being used. However, I am sure it is not 60 degree, cuz when I have 2 of the 72W, it covers my full 48" tank and each fixture is only 12 inches long.

To even compare it to the old 72W Zetlight fixture, it is

So which means that the 72W is almost equals to the PAR reading for reefbreeder's fixture.

The surface reading doesn't really mean much as
1) no one will place coral at surface
2)no coral in this world require anything over 700PAR. Even at 700 PAR, it is really small amount of SPS that can actually use it. Most SPS are 250 to 550.

Make sure that you understand that I am not trying to bash their fixture, as the 2 fixtures I used to compare are both discontinued. All I am saying is just to clarify what raise my concern when looking at a 32" 200W fixture

 

[Robbiesamp]

I'm sorry I don't understand what you are trying to get over! Sorry I just don't get it haha ??
Will you tell me in other words ?

 

[oyf709]

what I was trying to say is that by using 200W of LED, it only achieve almost the same amount of PAR as a 72W. That is what concerns me. spending almost 3 times the energy but getting the same result.

 

[Robbiesamp]

Ok I get it so what toils you recommend for me to do ?? And thanks for the heads up

 

[Robert_ellis]

Why does nobody look at CRI (color rendering index) as a measurement? Seems to me for photosynthesis in coral and needing a full spectrum of color this number would be just as important as par/ pur.

 

[Robbiesamp]

Yea that's very true !!!

 

[mr_X]

It doesn't matter what color you are throwing at a coral if there isn't enough PAR. PAR= Photosynthetically Active Radiation. This IS the measurement of the right color for growing photosynthetic creatures.
Photosynthetically active radiation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I believe color rendering index to be a perception of color- what you see with the naked eye.