It looked like a complete NPK plus micros as a dry fert?
I've never used that one but prefer to buy my ferts seperate for N, P & K + micros. That way I can adjust dosing as the fish / fish food are supplying nitrates / phosphates partly or completely anyways.
I personally wouldn't purchase a mixture of combined macros and micros. I'd dose alternately because micros and macros have an affinity for each other. They'll bind together and won't remain in ionized form for plants to use.
I'd stick to preparing two separate bottles as opposed to combining all nutrients in one.
I'm dosing the lush fert that I bought and I'm dosing 5ml a day this is only my second day
For plant I have about 3/4 Amazon swords about 3 jungle vale 1 Anubis and 1 crinum cal
I was just thinking on this as dose phosphate and micros separately. I wonder if chelating agents could solve this? And if they did, would the product have a certain shelf life maybe? I have seperate dry ferts now so just in passing.
This is what my plants look like they look kind of pale and not great also not grow that much at all
What is wrong what is lacking in the tank?
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Any help will be appreciated!
its very fine gravel with root tabs and clay peats under the plants.
no fertilised substrate
Chelating agents are great deliverers (exchangers). Think about our respiratory system. Chelated iron, within our hemoglobin, acts in such a manner. They pick up CO2 from our muscles and travel to our lungs, where in our lungs they exchange the CO2 for Oxygen (O2), and then deliver the O2 back to muscles. But in order for this exchange to happen, there must be an agent strong enough to break the bond, holding the CO2 to the iron.
The same concept occurs with fertilizers in the aquarium. NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) are in compound form within solution and therefore don't react with each other in a bottle. Dissolution occurs when they are introduced to the aquarium (massive body of water) and stem plants take them up. Remember, water is a polar covalent molecule, in which its polarization upon other compounds, many times weakens the bonds within these compounds. Therefore, these compounds dissociate and ionize.
To prevent any intermingling of macros and micros (especially in ionized form), its best to store them in separate bottles and alternate dose them daily.
What sort of light have you got and how long are you running it for? How deep is tank.
Pale leaves I can get with too much light / not enough CO2. So dosing any of the liquid carbons will help if you do not have injected CO2. And also reducing light duration. In a non-CO2 injected tank, plant growth will be very slow (which can be a good thing as less pruning).
Curled leaves / brown spots or holes on lower leaves are for my tank mainly a low potassium issue. This could well be related to lack of substrate tabs / quality CEC substrate as mentioned above as I dose very heavily on potassium.