My Cycle Log (fishless)

[eco23]

Yep. This is definitely one of those times a big pwc is needed. pH crashes can be common, they can slow things down a bit, but luckily they usually signify you're near the end

In this case I'd do a massive (90%) pwc to restore the natural value of the pH from the tap, dose back up and keep going. It shouldn't be long now

 

[Leader-Of-The-Fish]

Thanks for you awesome help you've been giving me to get though this cycling process. I'm taking out my bucket as we "type".

Do you have any ideas on my my Nitrate would have dropped from 10ppm to 5ppm in 24 hours?

Thank you so much for your help.

 

[ben27]

Thanks for you awesome help you've been giving me to get though this cycling process. I'm taking out my bucket as we "type".

Do you have any ideas on my my Nitrate would have dropped from 10ppm to 5ppm in 24 hours?

Thank you so much for your help.

The same thing has happened to me before. I think it is just a result of the uncertainty involved in the test, I don't think our nitrates actually disappeared. Also, I've heard that very high nitrites in the water can screw with the nitrate test. Not sure about that though

 

[eco23]

It had to have been a testing error (if you're using an API kit they can be tricky). NitrAte only leaves an aquarium in 3 ways- water changes, plants absorbing them or denitrifying bacteria converting it to nitrogen gas (you'll never notice the last one because nitrAtes are produced faster than they'll ever be converted). If you're using the API kit, make sure you're shaking the #2 bottle for 30 seconds, and the entire solution for a full minute. Let the tube sit for 5 minutes and record the result then. If you don't do enough shaking...the results are all over the board.

 

[Leader-Of-The-Fish]

Yeah I have the API Master Test Kit. I shook it but didn't bang it on the table like I normally do. Also when I do a water change I leave my filter off right? I have an HOB power filter that uses carbon. Will it dry out? Thanks for your help!

 

[eco23]

Yeah I have the API Master Test Kit. I shook it but didn't bang it on the table like I normally do. Also when I do a water change I leave my filter off right? I have an HOB power filter that uses carbon. Will it dry out? Thanks for your help!

As long as you don't take a lunch break in the middle it'll be fine. Doing pwc's quickly is always a good idea to keep everything wet. The majority of the beneficial bacteria is in the filter, but it's also on every surface of the tank...and if it dries it dies. You definitely want to turn off the filter because it'd run dry otherwise and be bad for the motor.

 

[Leader-Of-The-Fish]

Ah that was exhausting. I need to buy a bigger bucket. Half a gallon is WAY... to small.

I re dosed back up to 3ppm and I'm going to test the pH of the water in 30 minutes. Thank you for your help.

 

[ben27]

i dont mean to hijack the thread, but i have a pH problem also. My pH is 6.4 currently. tap water pH is 7.2. the weird thing is that I did 3 60% water changes this time yesterday. Is it normal for the pH to drop .8 in 24 hours?

 

[eco23]

i dont mean to hijack the thread, but i have a pH problem also. My pH is 6.4 currently. tap water pH is 7.2. the weird thing is that I did 3 60% water changes this time yesterday. Is it normal for the pH to drop .8 in 24 hours?

It's possible your pH is being buffered by your city, and when it gasses out it drops to the natural pH. Try this experiment...fill a glass with tap water, stick an air stone in it (if you have one), let it sit out overnight and see what it tests at.

 

[ben27]

i dont have an airstone unfortunately

 

[eco23]

i dont have an airstone unfortunately

You can just leave it sitting out for a while then. Maybe just record pH out of the tap, after 12 hours, then after 24 hours. Giving it a good stir a few times wouldn't hurt, but it's probably not necessary. I'd have to bet that's what's going on.

If you commonly see it dropping into extremely low ranges...a tiny bag of crushed coral in the filter might not be a bad idea to buffer the water and keep pH stable. If you're cycling it can cause havoc on pH...but even once the tank is stocked you want to avoid pH crashes.

I run a small bag of crushed coral in all of my tanks because I have extremely low alkalinity and I've experienced pH crashes (and dead fish) before.

 

[ben27]

Ok i'll try it and post here tomorrow. what is considered an extremely low pH?

 

[eco23]

Ok i'll try it and post here tomorrow. what is considered an extremely low pH?

Most fish can adapt to a very wide pH range. Problem is that once you get close to 6 nitrification slows. If allowed to drop too far below 6 (not sure of the exact #) nitrification stops entirely which would mean there's nothing to convert the ammonia and nitrIte which builds up in the tank. Now luckily it would take a lot of ammonia to actually be toxic (toxicity of ammonia is related to pH and temperature)...but a functioning bio-filter is obviously something I'd want in my aquarium.

 

[Leader-Of-The-Fish]

Just reporting that pH is back to normal! Thank you so much.

 

[ben27]

Most fish can adapt to a very wide pH range. Problem is that once you get close to 6 nitrification slows. If allowed to drop too far below 6 (not sure of the exact #) nitrification stops entirely which would mean there's nothing to convert the ammonia and nitrIte which builds up in the tank. Now luckily it would take a lot of ammonia to actually be toxic (toxicity of ammonia is related to pH and temperature)...but a functioning bio-filter is obviously something I'd want in my aquarium.

maybe i'll try the crushed coral...any idea where to find some?

 

[eco23]

Just reporting that pH is back to normal! Thank you so much.

Awesome . Just keep an eye on it. If it's dropped once...it may try and do it again.

 

[eco23]

maybe i'll try the crushed coral...any idea where to find some?

Crushed coral and aragonite (works just as well) are really easy to find at the chains and lfs's. It's commonly used as substrate, so you'll likely have to get a big bag. Luckily it's pretty cheap. I'd also pick up a mesh media bag to put it in. It doesn't take much at all to buffer the water. If you already have fish...add it vert slowly so it doesn't rocket up the pH and shock the fish. I don't know your tank size, but in my 46 gallon I have a tiny bit...like 4-5 pinches of it. The key is to not add so much that it raises pH...it's just to hold it steady.

 

[Leader-Of-The-Fish]

I'm sorry I'm not an expert at this, but when I do a water change that large will it take out all of the Nitrates? If it does I'll need to wait for them to grow again, right?

Thanks

 

[ben27]

Crushed coral and aragonite (works just as well) are really easy to find at the chains and lfs's. It's commonly used as substrate, so you'll likely have to get a big bag. Luckily it's pretty cheap. I'd also pick up a mesh media bag to put it in. It doesn't take much at all to buffer the water. If you already have fish...add it vert slowly so it doesn't rocket up the pH and shock the fish. I don't know your tank size, but in my 46 gallon I have a tiny bit...like 4-5 pinches of it. The key is to not add so much that it raises pH...it's just to hold it steady.

ok sounds good. i did just have an idea though. yesterday after the water changes I added fish food. if i added too much (which is definitely possible), would that lower the pH? idk if fish food is acidic enough to do that but it was just a thought

 

[eco23]

I'm sorry I'm not an expert at this, but when I do a water change that large will it take out all of the Nitrates? If it does I'll need to wait for them to grow again, right?

Thanks

NitrAtes are the end product of the cycle so having a level of them doesn't matter. Only thing you need to do is dose the ammonia back up and wait it out