Need more help with ferts please

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hulkamaniac

Aquarium Advice Freak
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Jun 7, 2006
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Ok, on advice I received here I ordered some Greg Watson ferts. After a blackout that sucessfully killed all the algae in the tank I'm ready to turn the lights back on, start up the CO2 again and start fertilizing.

My problem is I'm not entirely clear what to do with the ferts I got. I have three bags of white powder (which I've verified is not the *edit* shipment I was expecting). I bought Potassium Sulfate, Mono Potassium Phosphate and Potassium Nitrate. The tank is 75 g and I've found a couple of sites that suggest appropriate ammounts of fertilizer to dose.

Am I supposed to pull out the appropriate ammount of fertilizer (say 1/8 tsp) and drop it directly into the tank? Or do I dissolve it in some tank water first? Or can I dissolve the entire bag into tank water and dose 1/8 tsp of that? Can I dissolve all three bags into the same container of tank water and dose from that? I'm very confused here. Any help would be appreciated.

*terminology edited*
 
You can certainly mix a solution of all three. Just don't make too much as the solution has a tendency to lose it's properties if left standing too long. I have used the Seachem bottles and I also use a plastic 250ml containers for them.
 
As Bill has mentioned, you can mix all three, but I prefer to mix the Mono potassium phosphate and potassium sulfate together and dose the Potassium nitrate seperately. You have to dose so much KNO3 that it is just easier, IMO, to dose it (dry) seperately.

You do have a Micro fert as well, correct?

Here is the standard EI routine that a lot of us follow: ( http://www.barrreport.com/articles/1800-ei-light-less-techical-aspects-estimative-index.html )

"Overview
The Estimative Index (EI) is a straightforward method for providing nutrients for a planted tank. The idea behind EI is simply introducing an excess amount of nutrients within an aquarium, throughout the week. This excess of nutrients floods the water column and feeds the plants. This is an estimative method; measuring specific nutrient uptake rates is not necessary and no test kits are involved. EI provides a surplus of nutrients that helps to prevents plant deficiencies, and allows plant growth unhendered. Most algae releated issues are due to plant deficiencies rather than excess nutrient levels(Ammonium/NH4 + is the exception).

Basically you add a slight excess of nutrients to prevent anything from running out, then do a large water change at the end of the week to prevent anything from building up. This allows you to maintain a range of nutrients without ever using a test kit.

The water change generally takes about the same amount of time once you haul out the hoses etc do the water change so the time and work difference between a 25 % and 50% water change is fairly small.

The process of which this is done is simple. Each day (or 2-3x a week, weekly for low light tanks) fertilizers are dosed, and the nutrients are absorbed by the plants. With this method being estimative, we can dose fertilizers according to general guidelines suited for our particular setup (see below for regime). At the end of the week, one performs a 50% water change to ‘reset’ the nutrient load in the entire system. And then the entire dosing regime is repeated. The hobbyists can do larger(which will afford more accuracy) or smaller water change routines, but 50% is just guide line.

The primary fertilizers are the macro nutrients - Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), Potassium (K), and the micro nutrients – trace elements (Plantex CSM+B, Flourish, Tropica Master Grow-TMG). Iron (Fe) can also be supplemented if necessary.

The Estimative Index method works best for a high light and well planted aquarium. However it is not limited to higher light setups, smaller quantities of fertilizers can be dosed if low light is used. Also, the frequency may be reduced to 1-2x a week at low light(1.5-2w/gal).

General Dosing Guideline for High Light and well planted aquariums.

60 – 80 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 3/4 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- 3/16 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- 1/4 tsp K2S04 3x a week
+/- ¼ tsp (15ml) Trace 3x a week
50% weekly water change

EI target ranges
CO2 range 20-30 ppm
NO3 range 5-30 ppm
K+ range 10-30 ppm
PO4 range 1.0-2.0 ppm
Fe 0.2-0.5ppm or higher
GH range 3-5 degrees ~ 50ppm or higher
KH range 3-5

See dosing calculators for additional dosing guides for Fe, etc.

Where to buy fertilizers?
www.gregwatson.com can provide you with the necessary chemicals for dry and liquid dosing of the above. For micro - trace elements, Plantex CSM+B, Seachem Flourish, and Tropica Master Grow (TMG) are equivalent to each other. www.bigalsonline.com for the Seachem and TMG brands.

1 lb of each for Greg Watson Chemicals will last at least 1 year:

Plantex CSM+B
Potassium Nitrate KN03
Monopotassium Phosphate KH2PO4
Potassium Sulfate K2S04

Special Notes:

Providing optimal CO2 levels of at least 30 ppm are necessary for plants to prosper. If algae issue arise, remove all visible algae and infected leaves. Recheck CO2 levels, and possibly reduce and adjust the lighting period.

Direct dry dosing into the tank is perfectly fine. Many dose straight into, or they dissolve each daily amounts in water before adding. Plantex CSM+B is often mixed into solution for liquid dosing. 1 tablespoon to 250ml water is equivalent to: 20 ml = 1/4 teaspoon of dry Plantex. This solution is stored in refrigerators to prevent mold from forming within the container. HCL can be added to prevent the mold.

Small dosing teaspoons (smidgen, dash, pinch) can be found at Linen & Things, Bed Bath and Beyond, Wal-Mart, dollar stores, eBay and other online retailers. To identify the specific measurements of your smidgen, dash, pinch set, a 1/8 tsp should fill a ¼ tsp in 2 tries, 1/16 tsp in 4 tries, and a 1/32 tsp in 8 tries.


Sticking to a good dosing regime will make your plants flourish, and keep you delighted! If you seek more in depth discussion about EI, there are two other articles here.

John N and Tom Barr"
 
I dose my dry ferts directly into the tank....hasn't been a problem. I've read alot of planted tank folks that do the same. :) Its just easy for me to dose it directly and it doesn't bother the fish.

For my smaller tanks though, I mix them up in 250ml bottles, but thats because its hard to measure 1/16th of a tsp. ;)

Either way is fine though.....just whatever is easiest for you.
 
Like everyone has said...you can add the ferts to the tank dry, or you can mix with water and then dose - just whatever you find the easiest. :)

I use both methods - I use a solution in my smaller tanks and the dry ferts in my larger tank.

I mix the dry ferts (the white powder) with RO water to make a solution. I use this solution in my 5 gallon tanks and add it with a ml dropper. I make a separate solution from each fert (a separate nitrate solution, a separate phosphate solution, a separate potassium solution). I use empty half-liter bottled water bottles to mix the solution in. You may not want to mix up solutions because your tank is big - you'll go through the solutions pretty fast. I can give you the water-to-fertilizer ratio if you want, though.

In my larger tank (10 gallons - yes, I know that's still small :wink: ) I use the dry ferts. I need one of those smidgen-dash-nip teaspoon sets for this size tank. The correct ratio of ferts for my 10 gallon is N smidgen, P nip, and K nip. I think a nip is roughly 1/32 of a teaspoon. You would need a regular teaspoon set to measure the doses for your tank.

I pre-measure my dry ferts into little labeled pharmacy pill bottles. I went to the pharmacy and purchased some of the amber pill bottles. I labeled them "N P K Mon" "N P K Wed" etc. I put a smidgen of N, a nip of P and a nip of K all in the little bottle so all my ferts are ready for the week. When it's time to dose, I pour a little bit of bottled water into a plastic cup and heat it in the microwave for 9 seconds just to take the refrigerator chill off. I don't use tank water just because this tank is upstairs and I don't want to run up to get some tank water and then run back downstairs to get the ferts. This way I can mix up the dry ferts while my betta food is soaking. (Time management, lol!) It doesn't really matter how much water I use in the cup since the ferts themselves are the right amount for the tank size. I only use an ounce or so of water in the cup to dissolve the ferts, then I pour that into the tank near the pump outflow.
 
I love the pillbox idea. That is just awesome. Especially since I can get 3-4 pillboxes free from the local pharmacy. I can be set up for a month in no time. Great idea.
 
Some like to make a solution and this works well for more precise dosing, if that is your goal.
Some like to dose daily, this makes things easier if you want "more control and precision".

This might be something you desire as a more experienced grower perhaps........but it should never make or break any tank, only tweak things further and enhance some growth aspects you might desire a bit. I suggest and have suggested this going back about 10 or so years.

All many folks see is a simple recipe and assume that is all they ever need to do and follow it rigidly. The concept is as flexible as you want to apply it and is a starting point.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Greg Watson's link doesn't work any more (different site)... any one have an updated link?

Greg Watson sold his fertilizer store to another hobbiest last year. The site that SpeedEuphoria linked is Greg's site under the new ownership.

Rex Grigg is another option for buying dry ferts online.
 
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