New tank- General Q’s

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weewormie

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Apr 23, 2022
Messages
9
Location
Washington, USA
Hello, I have a little 10 gallon tank setup and have a few questions regarding it.
1) Do I have too many fish? There are 3 Neon Tetras, 2 Fancy Guppies, 1 Golden Panda Molly, 1 Silver Molly, 1 Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami, 1 Blue Mystery Snail. It feels like this may be too much but the pet store said it was okay, but I want to be sure they’re not overcrowded.
2) The Gourami seems to not be too interested in food anymore, and he continues to hide/stay near the lower parts of the tank. Although he does play in the bubbles sometimes.
3) The day after setting up my tank, I came home from work and one of my guppies was dead(I previously had 3). It seemed to be the most lively out of all straight out of the bag but it did this weird thing where it would “play dead” and then start swimming again. Could that be contagious? I don’t wanna lose more fish :(
I’m open to all suggestions & critiques!
 
To answer the question about stocking, yes it is over stocked. Is the tank cycled? How long has it been running? Do you have an api test kit? If so please give us the parameters and make sure you dont use the test strips because they’re not always accurate. Lmk
 
I wouldnt say you are over stocked. Its quite full though. What i would say though is you would be better off with either neons or guppies and keeping 5 or 6 of them. Also the tank size is a little small for the gourami, but not hugely so.

With regards to the specific issue you are seeing with the gourami and the dead guppy, have a read through the "unhealthy fish" sticky and give as much information as you are able, in as much detail as you can.

https://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f17/before-posting-about-unhealthy-fish-read-this-32451.html

Could i also ask what you know about the nitrogen cycle and did you cycle the tank before getting fish, are you now cycling the tank with fish, or do you know nothing about cycling and this is a new concept for you? If you cycled or are now cycling how did/are you doing this?
 
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You can check and see if your tank is overstocked. You just need to enter the size, filter, and fish. AqAdvisor - Intelligent Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium Stocking Calculator and Aquarium Tank/Filter Advisor

Good tool for giving a general idea on tank/filter capacity.

It is considered a conservative estimation of how fully you can stock a tank. I also think looking at the water change % is a better indication of how full you are rather than looking at the aquarium capacity. If you get up to 50% water changes needed, thats when you are at capacity. Also the filter seems to be the limiting factor rather than aquarium size. Oversizing the filter really opens up how much it says you can stock.
 
Tank parameters:
Ph: 7.4
Ammonia: 1.0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
It was previously testing 0 for ammonia. Also, yes! We are cycling the tank(with fish in), we just didn’t know the name for it. I had no idea that’s something you had to do before placing the fish in the tank though, should I return my fish and start cycling without them? I would like to do the proper thing.

Also my yellow fancy guppy(he was the smallest) has now completely disappeared. I feel like I’ve looked everywhere for it, even outside of the tank, and I have removed the golden panda from the community tank. He is now in his own until we can return him to the store either tonight or tomorrow. He was biting at the other’s fins.
 
1ppm ammonia is too high. You need to bring that down to 0.5ppm with a 50% water change.

Ill post my process for a fish in cycle. If done properly there is minimal risk, but you are stocked quite heavily so that will make it more work. Doing this with a low bioload and gradually stocking fish is a better way to go. Im not going to say you "have" to return fish, but it would be easier if you can.
 
To cycle a tank you need to grow denitrifying bacteria to consume ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces. The bacteria needs an ammonia source to grow colonies sufficient in size to consume all the ammonia and resultant nitrite and turn it into nitrate which typically you remove through your regular water changes.

A fish in cycle uses fish waste as an ammonia source and regular water changes are undertaken to ensure that water parameters are maintained at relatively non toxic levels.

Set up your tank. Make sure everything is running smoothly. Make sure you have used a water conditioner product with any tap water you have put in your tank. Seachem Prime is a water conditioner that will also detoxify some ammonia for a day or two, so is a good choice for a water conditioner while cycling a tank with fish.

You should have a test kit. Preferably a liquid test kit. It should test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

In ideal circumstances you should be starting a fishless cycle with a low bioload (number of fish). 1 small fish per 10 gallons/40 litres is a good number of fish, but this can be tweaked a little for fish that are social and don’t do well on their own. Ideally a hardy type of fish. You may have fully stocked (or overstocked) your tank before you knew about cycling. In these circumstances, if its not possible to return fish, you will have to make the best of it.

If you haven’t already done so, add your fish. Acclimate them to the water in your tank before doing so.

Feed lightly to start with. Daily as much as is eaten in 2 minutes, or as much as is eaten in 3 minutes every 2 days. You can increase to full feedings if you are confident your parameters aren’t getting too elevated too quickly and water changes don’t become a daily thing.

Start to regularly test the water for ammonia and nitrite. At least daily. Depending on your bioload you could start to see ammonia quite quickly. Nitrite will likely take a little longer to appear.

Your target should be to keep ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm by changing water whenever your water parameters exceed this target. 0.5ppm combined is a level of waste that is sufficient for your cycle to establish but relatively safe for your fish.

If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.0ppm nitrite (0.5ppm combined) then leave things be. If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite (0.75ppm combined) then change 1/3 of the water. If you see 0.25ppm ammonia and 0.75ppm nitrite (1.0ppm combined) then change 1/2 the water. If water parameters get worse than these levels it may require multiple daily 50% water changes to maintain safe water conditions. This is more likely to happen with a fully stocked tank.

Remember to add water conditioner whenever you put tap water in the tank.

Over time the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change to maintain your ammonia + nitrite combined target will reduce. You can also start testing for nitrate and should see this rising. If you are finding the ammonia and nitrite in your tests are consistently low, and you aren’t already fully stocked, you can add a few more fish. It may take a few weeks to get to this point.

Once you add a few more fish, continue to regularly test the water and continue to change water if you exceed the 0.5ppm combined ammonia + nitrite target. With added bioload the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change may increase again until your cycle has caught up. Again once you are consistently seeing low ammonia and nitrite you can add some more fish. Rinse and repeat with testing, water changes, and adding fish when safe to do so until you are fully stocked.

You can then cut back on water changes to control nitrate only. Typically you want to keep nitrate no higher than 40ppm, but I would recommend changing some water every 2 weeks even if your water test says you don’t need to.

A fish in cycle from an empty tank to fully stocked can take several months.

A good way to speed up this process would be to put a small amount of filter media from an established filter into your filter, or get a sponge from an established filter and squeeze it into your tank water. Perhaps you have a friend who keeps fish who could let you have some? This will seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow and speed up the process.

Another option is bottled bacteria like Dr Tims One + Only or Tetra Safestart. These products wont instantly cycle a tank as they claim but in a similar manner to adding established filter media they can seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow to establish your cycle. These products are hit and miss as to whether they work at all, but are an option if established filter media isnt obtainable and may speed up the process from several months to several weeks.
 
About that missing fish.. Do you have any castles or plastic pieces with openings for the fish to swim around in? I had the same problem and found my fish dead, floating in a air bubble in my castle. Try to find the fish as soon as possible because if he is still in the tank, he will start to decompose, lowering your water quality. (Also, you will have a dead fish floating around).
 
I do have a couple, I will check today once I do the 50% water change.
I was using Seachem’s “stability” water conditioner, we did also buy the safe start though. Should I discontinue stability and start using the other?
 
Seachem stability isnt a water conditioner. Its a bacterial product that helps cycle the tank. Water conditioners remove chlorine treatment from your tap water. Prime is seachems water conditioner.

Safestart isnt a water conditioner either.

Are you using a water conditioner? If so, what?
 
Yesterday we bought Prime, Flourish, and Neutral regulator. We’re going to test the water again today but after changing the water yesterday ammonia was already at .25, we even bought some live plants rather than plastic.
I have also found the guppy.. he was wedged under the heater :(
Thank you for all the advice, the fish should be much happier with these better conditions.
 
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