mfdrookie516
Aquarium Free - 2+ Years
You shouldn't have any issues with prime... I think the majority of us that are dosing ferts use prime with no issues.
mfdrookie516 said:You shouldn't have any issues with prime... I think the majority of us that are dosing ferts use prime with no issues.
Do you thinking that the prime/ ferts were reacting with the pH solution?
You have been such a great help! I am going to go do a pwc but first I am going to get a pH reading of the tank water then after the pwc I will get another pH reading... I will tell you how it goes
mfdrookie516 said:You need to let the tap offgas for a few hours before determining the pH. And, pH swings aren't really that big of an issue with fish... it's hardness and other factors that cause issues. If you're using the same water source, and aren't buffering the water with anything (like a crushed coral, peat, or a specialized buffer), then you shouldn't have any issues. Tap water chemistry can change with the seasons, but it should be minimal enough to cause no harm.
You need to let the tap offgas for a few hours before determining the pH. And, pH swings aren't really that big of an issue with fish... it's hardness and other factors that cause issues. If you're using the same water source, and aren't buffering the water with anything (like a crushed coral, peat, or a specialized buffer), then you shouldn't have any issues. Tap water chemistry can change with the seasons, but it should be minimal enough to cause no harm.
Heyas MFD...just to summarize the 7 pages of thread for you... there isn't a pH swing that we are trying to figure out...it's more like its really basic water...the thread is a bit long to follow, but basically she was testing tank water, not tap. I asked her to test tap water to see what the pH of that was before adding it to the tank. The tap water is close to 7.0/neutral and isn't the problem. But with ferts and prime it is off the card chart into basic range. We have been trouble shooting that.
I agree with you that adding peat along with the driftwood in the tank will help to buffer the water for a lower pH in the future. The angelfish will like that anyways
mfdrookie516 said:Man, I'm not the best at ID'ing diseases... It seems that Kai has given you some good advice so far. I will say that a lot of what you're describing does sound like columnaris though. It doesn't have to be on their mouth, it can be on their body too. One of the things I've found out about columnaris is that it hates salt. It also loves higher temperatures. That's the double edged sword. If it's not, lowering the temp could increase the disease they have if it's not columnaris, but will help if it is. I think frequent water changes are the best cure for anything, and definitely something I would be doing. There's more than one way to skin a cat though, so what one person prefers may not be what the next person prefers. For me, daily 50% water changes (or more %/frequency if you want) would be the first thing to do. If you notice more fuzzy growth, patches on the body, or see any cottony looking growth on the mouth, it's most likely columnaris. If it's more just clamped fins and lazy behavior, it's probably a parasite of some sort. Like I said, I'm horrible at disease ID's though. Just speaking from experiences.
This is the attack plan for tomorrow:
Go to PETCO buy some melafix
Do a salt dip
And for the next couple of weeks I will do 50% water changes everyday.
Does that sound good?
kaiofcanada said:sounds good to me
also add feeding peas to your fish as a regular part of their diet and keep us posted on how the angel is doing