QT/Hospital tank...But then what?

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missmonday

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Aug 6, 2015
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Portland, OR
Hello!

My plans are within the next few weeks to buy a 20 gallon tank through Petco's $ per gallon sale (starts this 27th I believe!) And utilize it as a quarantine tank for new arrivals. Now, I'm only planning on adding a few corys, a few kuhlis and some amano shrimp to my 28 gallon main tank. (I don't think you have to quarantine new shrimp do you?)

I would of course spread all of these purchases over the next few months and keep each group I buy in qt for 2 weeks.

I could always use the 20g as a hospital tank if needed, but what should I do with it after I'm done adding everything I want to? Turn it into a big shrimp tank? Any ideas? :0
 
Hello!

My plans are within the next few weeks to buy a 20 gallon tank through Petco's $ per gallon sale (starts this 27th I believe!) And utilize it as a quarantine tank for new arrivals. Now, I'm only planning on adding a few corys, a few kuhlis and some amano shrimp to my 28 gallon main tank. (I don't think you have to quarantine new shrimp do you?)

I would of course spread all of these purchases over the next few months and keep each group I buy in qt for 2 weeks.

I could always use the 20g as a hospital tank if needed, but what should I do with it after I'm done adding everything I want to? Turn it into a big shrimp tank? Any ideas? :0

I would go for a 10 gallon rather than a 20 as a QT/hospital tank. You'll save money, and I can't think of a fish that could live in a 28 gallon that wouldn't be ok in a 10 gallon for a few weeks. (I use a 10 gallon quarantine for fish from 10 to 55 gallon tanks).

You don't have to keep a tank empty to use it as a hospital/qt tank. My 10 gallon QT has some guppies in it. The guppies are very hardy, inexpensive and tend to reproduce fast enough to replace themselves so I'm not worried about them if one of my new aquisitions ends up spreading something horrific (thankfully that has yet to happen). They also spawn frequently and there's always a few fry in there, so fish that are picky about food will often at least snack on guppy fry.

The problem I see with using shrimp in your hospital tank is that invertebrates can react badly to some fish medications. I would stick to shrimp in your main tank and put hardy fish in your QT/hospital, so you don't have to worry about wiping out your shrimp if a fish needs to be treated.
 
Okay! Yeah that makes sense, I just don't want to get a tank that won't be in use at all in several months :p I'm not too big of a guppy fan, but would you think that platys would be a good choice too? They're livebearers and multiply pretty quick too.

Or any other suggestions? :0
 
Okay! Yeah that makes sense, I just don't want to get a tank that won't be in use at all in several months :p I'm not too big of a guppy fan, but would you think that platys would be a good choice too? They're livebearers and multiply pretty quick too.

Or any other suggestions? :0

Platys would be fine! You could also do cherry barbs, zebra danios or really any kind of fish that spawns relatively easily and that you might use for fish-in cycling. The reason I suggest cycling fish is that some medications (specifically certain antibiotics) can kill your biofilter so it's good to have fish that can handle that. And of course fish that spawn easily and frequently provide tempting and high-quality food. Stock very lightly though- you want to make sure you don't overload your tank when you go to add fish to quarantine.
 
Yeah that makes sense! Would you recommend cycling a quarantine tank first before I put any new arrivals in it? I was thinking I wouldn't, but change the water every other day. But on second thought, maybe I should haha. I could just put the new filter in my main tank for a week or two, right?

What would you say would be a good number for any of those fish you recommend? 3 or 4? (Of course breeding allowing)
 
Yeah that makes sense! Would you recommend cycling a quarantine tank first before I put any new arrivals in it? I was thinking I wouldn't, but change the water every other day. But on second thought, maybe I should haha. I could just put the new filter in my main tank for a week or two, right?

What would you say would be a good number for any of those fish you recommend? 3 or 4? (Of course breeding allowing)

You should definitely cycle the tank. Don't want to risk the fish or the price you paid for them. Plus, if a fish looks sick or dies in quarantine, you can't be sure if it was due to ammonia/nitrite or some other disease. If the fish is healthy but harboring a potential pathogen (all of your fish harbor potential pathogens), the stress from ammonia/nitrite can give the potential pathogen an opening. And if the fish does turn out to be sick, then ammonia and nitrite may nudge the illness from "treatable" to "fatal".

Putting the new filter on the old tank for a week or two, and maybe squeezing the original filter pad into the new one, should cycle it. After that, I would test it/mature it with some hardware store ammonia (like for fishless cycling) or with the permanent inhabitants before you add any new fish.

For fish, I would do 3 platys (1 male, 2 females), or 4 cherry barbs (1 male, 3 females) or 5 zebra danios. Just one small group of fish, to keep the biofilter going. If you do platys make sure to keep on top of the fry as they'll eventually overrun you if you aren't careful. We net out any excess guppy fry before they get too big and put them in our community tank for our angelfish and loaches (just about any fish will eat them if they're small enough to eat).
 
Yeah, good point! I'll keep my options open for the small cycling fish, but I think I might try cherry barbs :)

Would it ideal to get 4 barbs after the 5 corys and 5 kuhlis have successfully gone through QT or before?
 
Yeah, good point! I'll keep my options open for the small cycling fish, but I think I might try cherry barbs :)

Would it ideal to get 4 barbs after the 5 corys and 5 kuhlis have successfully gone through QT or before?

Well, if you have ammonia for fishless cycling and can use that to make sure your QT is cycled, then I would get them after the new fish. If you don't, then add them before you get the new fish and after you move the filter over, as a way of checking if the tank is cycled (and if it isn't then treat it like fish-in cycle).
 
I'll check around to see if we have ammonia anywhere, we probably do! How long does fishless cycling take? I know the biofilter is stronger than with fish-in cycling. Cycling my 28 gallon took a month.
 
I'll check around to see if we have ammonia anywhere, we probably do! How long does fishless cycling take? I know the biofilter is stronger than with fish-in cycling. Cycling my 28 gallon took a month.

If you run the quarantine filter for a few weeks on the 28 and squeeze the filter pad from the original filter into the new one, it should be at least somewhat cycled when you move it. It's just good to make sure before you add fish. I would just add the cherry barbs when you move the QT filter, and then watch the ammonia/nitrite.
 
Okay :D thanks for the advice! I can't get anything until October but it's definitely good to have a plan :)
 
Just to be clear, a hospital tank and a quarantine tank serve 2 very different purposes which shouldn't be done in the same tank.

A hospital tank is a tank where you need to medicate the fish for a disease or wound. It would be best to use in a quiet place in the home or wherever one keeps their fish so that the fish can be undisturbed as much as possible. It should be sterile when the fish goes into it. No substrate, no biological filter ( most meds kill the BB) and minimal, if any, decor. For the most part, the only thing going in a hospital tank is a heater and an airstone. Follow the directions on whatever medication you are using as to when you should be changing water. When you are finished with the medicating portion of the process, the fish should be moved to a holding/ QT tank until ready to be introduced or reintroduced to the main tank. At that point, the tank should be broken down and sterilized and left dry and unused.

A quarantine tank is just that, quarantining the animal to observe the animal(fish in this case) for any health issues and to allow it time to get adjusted to it's new surroundings, foods and feeding schedules, etc. (You can use any size tank for this.) This should be done in a biologically sound tank and for longer than 2 weeks. Some parasites have a 6 week life cycle so your fish should be QT for at least that long or longer ( recommended is 8-10 weeks if not medicating) to ensure you are not introducing anything into your main tank. Once the new fish have reached the end of this QT period, they can be introduced into the main tank and the QT tank can be maintained with fish such as cory catfish or other common scavengers that will keep the biological filter going and are not harmful to any other fish you may be putting into the tank in the future. Keep in mind that these fish can possibly be exposed to diseases and death so I would not use expensive fish for this purpose. They may need to be replaced.

So as you see, they are 2 very different tank setups.

As earlier suggested, using a 10 gal tank as a hospital tank would be a better choice for a number of reasons. The biggest one is that most medication's dosages are for 10 gallons of water. (That's 10 actual gallons of water not a 10 gal tank which doesn't hold 10 actual gallons of water.) Considering the costs of most medications, you don't want to waste any of it unnecessarily. Here's another hint, since most 10 gal tanks don;t really hold 10 gallons of water, you can do an actual measure for 5 gallons of water and just divide the medication dose in half and be right on the money ( assuming the fish you are medicating can fit in the 5 gallons of water.) (y) For pill forms, just cut in half. For powders, get yourself a cheap set of measuring spoons at the $1.00 store and measure out the dose then divide in half. ;) It saves money.:brows:
The second good reason to use a 10 gal is that they are small enough to just put away somewhere until they are needed again. Since you are only using 5 gals of water, you can set up the tank on anything that can handle about 50-60 pounds of weight. Airpumps are portable so the only thing you need to be close to is an electrical outlet. (y)

So I hope this better explains these 2 setups and helps you make a wise decision. Make good use of the $1.00/ gallon sale. ;)(y)
 
In my case I'm limited on tanks so there is cross-over on function. The QT is permanently set up (and I just fend off complaints the space should be used for something else).

If I need it for hospital tank, then I can transfer the fish/snails keeping it running to a holding net in DT (mind you QT is 6gal and DT is 150gal so I have room to play with).

It's also useful for me to grow fish a little bit so they settle in the main tank better. There I think a 10gal would be nicer and still relatively small.

To compromise, I run tank bare bottom and with plastic plants or with plants I could throw out if needed. I've added to the filter media but can just swap from DT as needed.

One thing I do now is I tend to try to buy any fish in the cooler months and not at the height of summer or first rains, etc when I suspect the water company has different water quality.
 
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Wow thanks for the detailed advice guys!

I would predominantly use the 10 gal as a quarantine tank. Would it be ill-advised to have anything in there (possibly 4 cherry barbs as earlier suggested) if I were to use it as a hospital tank in case anything were to come up amongst my 28 gal main tank.

When I thought 2 of my platys had something (turned out to be nothing), I moved them to a clear 16 gallon tub with a heater and a powerhead.

Should I leave the barbs in or move them to a tub if any particular fish were to come down with something.

As far as the 10 gal goes, I plan on leaving it bare-bottomed with plastic plants. Does this sound good?
 
For me, I'd move the fish. Sometimes I'll shift a fish into QT that has been bashed up and needs quiet to recover. I find other fish might have a go at fins of weakened fish. That's just me though, I've also only got a small QT and not much space to set extra stuff up. I could use the garage but that cooks in summer (which is when I seem to get more problems).
 
Wow thanks for the detailed advice guys!

I would predominantly use the 10 gal as a quarantine tank. Would it be ill-advised to have anything in there (possibly 4 cherry barbs as earlier suggested) if I were to use it as a hospital tank in case anything were to come up amongst my 28 gal main tank.

When I thought 2 of my platys had something (turned out to be nothing), I moved them to a clear 16 gallon tub with a heater and a powerhead.

Should I leave the barbs in or move them to a tub if any particular fish were to come down with something.

As far as the 10 gal goes, I plan on leaving it bare-bottomed with plastic plants. Does this sound good?

Okay, let me ask you...... If you were sick and in the hospital, would like someone else in bed with you , taking your food and space, possibly hassling you or would you rather be alone and getting all the attention? ;)

As for plastic plants, keep in mind that some meds have dye in them and your plants can become discolored. You want things that are inert and don't absorb in a hospital tank so keep this in mind. (y)
 
Well, right now the main tank is set up in my living room, and I plan on putting the QT in my room, which is fairly dark during the say and quiet.

Should I scrap the idea of having permanent residents in the QT?

I don't have a lot of other space for ttanks either...just the 28g, the 10g and the 16g tub, but I'd prefer not running the tub and the 10g tank simultaneously.

My main dilema is I don't particularly want an empty 10g stored away when nothing is in it, you know?
 
Well, right now the main tank is set up in my living room, and I plan on putting the QT in my room, which is fairly dark during the say and quiet.

Should I scrap the idea of having permanent residents in the QT?

I don't have a lot of other space for ttanks either...just the 28g, the 10g and the 16g tub, but I'd prefer not running the tub and the 10g tank simultaneously.

My main dilema is I don't particularly want an empty 10g stored away when nothing is in it, you know?

WOW!!!! That's a little short sighted don't you think? It's a $10.00 investment to save who knows how much in fish lives down the road. It's really no different than saying "I won't buy a bottle of aspirin or bandages to keep in the house just in case. I need to use them daily or not at all." :whistle:

Here's a suggestion, scrap the whole new hospital tank idea and just measure out the 10 gals ( or 5 gals) in your plastic tub and just use that as your hospital tank. (y) The fish shouldn't mind the container. (y)
As for setting up the QT in your room, since you are trying to get the fish used to where they are going to be going, you would be better served having the QT also in the living room and the hospital container ( tank or tub) in your bedroom where it is quiet. It has to be more stressful for a fish to come from peace and quiet to the activity of the living room whereas if it is in a safe environment ( like a separate tank) where it can get used to things slowly, it may adapt better when it is put into the main tank.
( Just some food for thought. (y) )
 
The only problem with setting up the QT in the living room is that there isn't any more space... I could try to work out something, but it'd depend on the dimensions of the 10g tank, and ask my parent's permission...
 
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