Question about planted tanks?

[Jchillin]

So you're saying that its cheaper to go with the 55 watt in the long run and save myself from the inexperiance, pain and agony suffering from total disaster if something were to happen.

I wouldn't say that exactly, it all depends on what you are ready for. FWIW, I have a 75 gal for two years and have yet to go high light. I pretty happy with what I have and the plants are doing well.

 

[rich311k]

I thought PC/CF bulbs lost their spectrum as well, and need to be changed out once a year for optimum performance...

I think the color spectra stays the same, they just aren't as bright. I could be wrong though, wouldn't be the first time.

 

[Mad Professor]

Well I think should stay sub CO2 and get my feet wet first before diving in.

Anyways I'm guessing that the 55 watt lighting fixture is a PC/CF? SO I don't have to replace the bulb until it dies eh?

YAY!
I think?

Again with the fert, All I need; once the tank is establish and has used up all the nutrients, I would need nitrates and phosphates fert, correct? Just that nothing else? Or am I missing something?
A list would be nice...

 

[Jchillin]

Most micros are supplied in your tap water. You can find out what micros are present by contacting your water supplier for their test results.

Macros are far easier, they include Potassium, Nitrate and Phosphates. You will probably get a healthy amount of phosphates via the food you feed your fish. A phosphate test is a good idea, since you will want to maintain 1.0ppm at all times. There is no method of testing potassium. Since it doesn't replenish itself in the aquarium, dosing is necessary, usually 1-2ppm daily or every two or three days. Nitrate can be tested via nitrate test kits. You want to maintain 10ppm at minimum and dosing if you bottom out is also needed. You will definitely need the nitrate/potassium combo, trust me. Gregwatson is great for this one, it's a dry KNO3 that you can mix into a liquid solution that will outlast the Flourish products.