Redirecting water ourlet on HOB filter

[selvan777]

Hi,

I'm mainly keeping Cardinals in a 20 long with an AquaClear 50 HOB and am placing it in the back far right corner.

To encourage my schoolers to school I'd like to make a contraption that would divert the water from the HOB into a channel that would take the flow straight to the front glass and turn so it's enters the tank along the front glass from one end to the next.

The exit chamber of the HOB is pretty wide and I'm thinking i I can figure out a way to narrow that channel at the exit point, it would probably increase the force enough to do the trick.

Hanging the HOB on the side would be an easy alternative but I'd have to cut the all-glass canopy to accommodate it. Keep in mind too that the canopy is only 12" wide (including the plastic rear strip) and the HOB is 7" wide. Meaning to point out that the HOB would extend beyond the (un-used) middle hinge of the canopy.

I don't use the hinge because rather than lift the canopy open to feed I slide the whole thing (canopy and light hood) back to open the front. I do place my light hood on the portion that lifts up directly in front.

What do you think?

I've searched these DIY threads and could not find a previous similar venture.

Thanks

 

[selvan777]

You know what, in hind sight, I think I'll just have a glass canopy cut to fit the outer most edge (rather than the standard inside lip) with a cut-out for the HOB on the side front and continue sliding back for feeding and/or remove for maintenance.

BTW, the light hood is 28", the HOB portion that hangs inside is 1.5" from the outside, and the tank is 30.25" outside. Meaning to say it should fit fine.

 

[BigJim]

I'm not sure the AC would generate enough water movement for you. What you described could probably be done with acrylic, but I think it'd be cheaper (and easier) to use a small powerhead.

 

[selvan777]

Thanks.

Ya, I don't know....yet! But will find out soon when I put it there temporarily (it's in the mail).

Right now with my AC20 situated so the outlet is direct center in the rear aimed to the front glass, the Cardinals tend to turn to it when swimming by and almost always speed up the pace when just passing it at the front glass.

So I think it's looking promising with doubling the output going to an AC50.

I've looked at the powerheads (even the smallest) and would rather not have to add any more devices if I don't have to. The thought of just hanging the AC50 on the side in plain view is already a turn-off I'm trying to get over as is... haha

 

[mfdrookie516]

or you could always go with a small canister filter... that would be a super easy way to direct the flow however you want

 

[selvan777]

Thanks.

True, but with the fish stock I plan to have, the AC50 is minimum, even in a well planted 20 long.

 

[mfdrookie516]

sorry, i didnt understand what you meant by "minimum"... are you talking filtration wise, money, space? If space and money arent the issue, then a canister such as a fluval 205 would provide better filtration as well as the solution to the problem

 

[selvan777]

Yes, filtration.

I'm planning on having:

18 Cardinals
08 Cory Pygmy
06 Endler males
03 Ghost Shrimp
03 Otos

While getting advice on the setup I mentioned I had an AC20. So it was suggested I double it up with 2 of them. With no thought of encouraging schooling of the fish it was decided that an AC50 would be sufficient to handle the bio load.

Thanks for suggesting the Fluval 205, I'll have to check it out, especially since it will solve the problem too.

 

[selvan777]

Wow, it's a bit out of my league I'm afraid.
Back to the drawing board.

 

[BigJim]

Just so you know, I don't think your stocking list is a huge bioload. The endlers are probably the messiest fish, and that's not saying much. Cardinals and otos don't really produce much bioload and neither do the shrimp. Overfiltering is generally a good thing, but don't get the idea that you're stuffing the tank bioload-wise.

You've done a good job of stocking your swimming layers in the tank. The corys will stay near the bottom most of the time, the cardinals tend to stay mid-level, and the endlers stay near the top. As long as your fish aren't visually cramped, let your water parameters tell you how overstocked your tank is.

I have a 29g with 8 dwarf neon rainbows, two swordtails, two platies, two otos, a striped raphael (8"+), a pictus cat (7.5"-8"), 5 khulis, 3 mystery snails, and a ton of MTS. Using a Penguin 200B, which is rated up to 55g, my water parameters never vary from 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, 5ppm nitrate, and I'm really bad about PWCs. Maybe I change some water out once or twice a month.

 

[selvan777]

Thanks BigJim,

It definitely does reassure me that I'm still in the safe zone because there are many out there that do think I'm crazily overstocking. I like your stock as well, nice.

Does this mean that if I can figure out how to avoid a male Betta from overeating while feeding the others I can have one again. I think my last one, a Double Tailed, died ultimately due to it. He never bothered anuone and they too left him a lone swimming in and out of every single tunnel, crevice, plant, etc, that he could fit into.

Back to the subject, I got the AC50 new delivered for $34 and it's still in the mail. I've decided to stick to keeping it hanging in the rear but will place it to the furthest left side and glue together a acrylic channel taking the flow to the front and aimed to the opposite end, I'll then use suction cups to hold it in place. Of course I'll first simply hang the HOB aimed that way first to see the results from the Cardinals behavior. Man, I sure hope it works.

That will probably be cheaper than messing with the glass.

 

[selvan777]

I was going to post a question regarding the use of ABS but did some research first, below is what I found. What's your take on the use of ABS?

Reeflands Forum - View Single Post - is black abs plastic safe to use?

Once there you can click on "Thread: is black abs plastic safe to use? at the top right to read "Post #57" for even more reassurance.

 

[john73738]

You could just use plexi or lexan found at Lowes. Cut out a bottom and top piece to the shape that you are looking for making sure to round the corners for better fluid dynamics. Then cut sides and cement it to the top and bottom pieces. You would need to fabricate hangers to hold it on the side. You could cut holes in the bottom to decrease water flow.

Just my two cents

Bear

 

[selvan777]

John,

Thanks, I'll stop by Lowes today and inquire about plexi or lexan. AFAIK, those are just types of plastics, but you seem to be referring to a specif prefabricated item that may help a lot as is.

Am I way off ? What item are you speaking of ?

I already bought ($2) a small & thin sheet of ABS from Tap Plastics that's easily moldable by bending but at that price, I can find other use for it else where.

 

[john73738]

How thick is the ABS?? for you to get good seams that will hold you will need 1/8 to 1/4 inck plexi, and maybe thinner on the sides. Plus the Plexi will be clear and look cleaner. Also what do you use to cement the ABS? have to make sure that it is safe, the soulvant used for plexi melts the two pieces together and is safe for fish.

May cost more in the end, but will work well I think.


Good luck

Bear

 

[selvan777]

Hi and thanks again John.

The ABS is less than 1/16" thick, closer to 1/32". It's small, light weight, easy to work with and is black to match my background. Anyway, I plan on installing this contraption so it's hidden completely behind the existing black ABS rim on the top of the tank.

As for glue, I've learned a new word... potable. Weld-On 747 is potable and apparently adheres to ABS and is probably available at any pool supply shop, don't know how much $$$ though. But I may not need it.

Picture a shoebox cover, if you will, but rather than a perfect rectangle, it's more a pie shape collecting water from the larger end (the end directly under the outlet of hob on the rear glass) and exiting on the side of the box causing the water to flow along the front glass at the narrow end (the end directly opposite at the front glass). I can cut the ABS to size with scissors, bend the edges to make walls which will be against the end and front glass of the tank. I can drill holes in the ABS to use suction cups that usually are sold with metal hooks to hang things on in the shower to retain it after removing the hook and shoving it into the holes I drilled. And use regular aquarium glue to close the corners only to prevent water seepage while it makes the turn at the one and only corner at the narrow end (no weight, pressure, or stress).

If not enough current is generated, I'm thinking I can try to elevate the hob just a bit so gravity can do a better job.

 

[MrNitrite]

Hi Selvan. I also have a 20 long with AC50. I don't know if you'll be happy with it to generate alot of water current. Mine is wimpy. My Marineland Bio Wheel 200 is rated the same gph(200), and it's a MONSTER compared to the AC50(in size and amount of water pumped). Like Big Jim suggested, I added a small powerhead on the other side of the tank.

 

[selvan777]

MrNitrite, thanks. That's good info. Now I'm thinking Return To Sender may be in the works, it's sched for delivery this Tues from eBay. That Penguin 200 is very affordable but it seems like most prefer the quality of the AquaClear's. Maybe I'll just add the Powerhead if I find I still need it.

Tell me, did your white clouds and corys not school with just the Penguin 200 and is that why you added the powerhead? Or were there other driving factors to your wanting all that current?

Remember I'm not really looking for a lot of current, just enough to get my cardinals to school often.

 

[MrNitrite]

The Penguin 200 is on the 29 gallon Goldfish tank. When I just had the AC50 on the 20, there was hardly no movement in the water. When the powerhead was added, that really got things moving. The fish are a little more active now. You may want to consider getting the Penguin 200 and not use the bio wheel. In the past I've had problems with the wheel not turning. This one I got used did not come with the bio wheel. So I bought the Aqua Clear Biomax pellets in the mesh bag and dropped it in behind the filter cartridge. It's the best of both worlds-pumps lots of water and no potential bio wheel problems.

 

[WhiteDevil]

Same issue on my 52 with a ac70 on it. I had to add a ac20 powerhead to get circulation, its more then enough for the tank, the danios use it the most.

My ac20 on my 40gT throws out more pressure then the ac50 sitting right next to it does, both wide open. I am thinking about drilling quite a few more holes in the basket on the impeller side to see if it helps.


MrNitrite, how dirty does the BioMax get being upstream from the mechanical and chemical filtration? I aquired two more aquatechs( no bio wheel penguins) recently and wasnt having luck with them set up like my AC filtration, at one point the water was dripping from the outlet.