mapexmac007
Aquarium Advice Activist
Thank you JLK, for this information and the links. I'll read them tomorrow as it's quite late now. I'm increasing WCs to twice/week, 30% each change. I'll visit my LFS for Prime as well and an API Test Kit.
Indispensable help here Rivercats, THANKS!!
What specifically is that Aqueon "Water Changer"? Is this some pump/filter mechanism? I was speaking of Aqueon's "Water Conditioner". I'm quite liberal with it, given what's at stake, almost a double-dose of what's asked for, given how miserable our tap water is.
I will conduct the first 50% WC of the day in about 30 minutes. I'll wait 5 hours or so, and do another.
When using "tank water" to rinse bio-mech and/or filter elements, you're speaking of using water which was just removed from the tank, correct? I deduce that this measure protects the bacteria in the filter elements, correct?
One last one: What exactly is "Prime"? Is this a brand name or a specific type of treatment?
Thanks a bunch! I do indeed love our fish, as does my wife and daughter.
With regard to your salnity, I don't think adding salt will help with reduction in calcium etc that ks causing you problems. You would do well to invest in an RO unit and mix your water to get the results you require.
With regard to your salnity, I don't think adding salt will help with reduction in calcium etc that ks causing you problems. You would do well to invest in an RO unit and mix your water to get the results you require.
Adding aquarium salt to a tank is not going to affect the hardness of the water in respect to reducing the levels of Gh and Kh. I think you are confusing the use of salt in your water softening system to reduce hardness levels through a resin and/or ion exchange system. Adding aq salt simply just makes your tank water salty. All freshwater has a natural base salinity to it which varies depending on one's locale. Your fancies do not require anything beyond what already exists.
There is nothing wrong with the tap water here as its perfectly suitable for goldfish and an RO unit is simply an unnecessary expense.
First off let's clairify I said "I don't use tank water to clean them as they are detritus catchers and not bio-media in canisters." I never said they didn't contain BB if you read my post. In Fluval canisters the sponges are used as mechanical filters. I don't worry about any BB being killed off as there is plenty in my actual bio-media. The Fluval canisters have the side sponges that catch larger detritus and the bottom black sponge is for catching smaller detritus. Therefore a thorough cleaning of both types of sponges should be done to keep all detritus removed. Tank water can be used if you'd rather but you have to watch your tanks nitrates as they can build up over time, especially in GF tanks. I've been using Fluval canisters since the 80's, cleaning them in the same manner without causing any mini cycles or bacterial blooms from rinsing away any BB they contain.
As for using the water changer you use the faucet to get the syphon going, then turn the faucets off. When your ready to fill the tank you simply set the water temp to what you want, turn the valve, and the water then goes into the tank. I then go out and add the proper amount of Prime to treat the entire tank size and not just for the amount of water added. It beats the heck out of buckets.
No wonder you are chasing high nitrite and ammonia. You aren't changing near enough water. The last thing hard water meeds is adding more mineral to it. You don't need salt you need to do 50% weekly water changes (or even more), and yes i know water is at a premium in Vegas. It would also seem your filtartion is inadequate if you have ammonia and nitite.
Acknowledging that BB can/does live in the Fluval sponge filter elements, it would be most beneficial to protect that BB, and rinse-off detritus in "old tank water" as opposed to a tap water rinse. However, if the sponges are really clogged, then yes, a tap water rinse seems in order. Any BB is a good thing, whether they reside in bio-mech or in the sponges, or along the walls of the Fluval canister for that matter.
As for the salt, it was my initial misunderstanding that the calcium deposits I am seeing around the tank top edges and tank hose cutouts, etc. would be less if my tank water was "softer" than the tap water I WC with. Pip has explained my misconception, along with several other folks chipping-in on the salt/no salt in freshwater tanks discussion. Simply adding salt to my water isn't going to "soften" the water, as does happen via my house's water softener. My bad, my error. No more salt, period (unless it's for treating an illness).
At this point, I'll leave the salt out of my WC treatments, relying solely on the Prime, which I'm picking-up today from my LFS.