Scared about my afericans

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While the above link is an excellent resource and the act of venting is the most accurate way to tell what sex fish you have, another easier, though less acurate method would be to examine the vent fin. If the bottom fin is larger and more rounded, the fish is female. Smaller, more narrow and pointed bottom fin is male. This method is easier to do, though somewhat less accurate because the position of the fish in the aquarium and the fact that the fish can tuck it's fin causing it to appear to be a male when it may in fact be female. With practice, this method works pretty good. It was the method I used when I was working at the pet store. I learned it from my parents.
 
I haven't heard of sexing a fish based on appearance of spots except in black convicts, which aren't African.
egg spots on mouth brooders... its the most common way people sex them, just not as accurate as venting... thats the only way most pet store employees know how to sex them
 
i couldnt tell you exactly what i have cause idk tehy are all hand picked from assorted African tanks i know i have what they call an electric blue and a sun rise peacock and a electric yellow (yellow lab?) and then two others one i was told was a peacock and the last no clue what it is
 
Dont you use salt in your aquarium all the time? If so, then add 2t per gallon more when treating for ICK??????
 
salt

Dont you use salt in your aquarium all the time? Then for the ICK add 2 t more of salt to that?
 
Nessie, no. Salt is not necessary at all times in an aquarium. African cichlids may tolerate it better than many fish, and it probably wouldn't hurt with these to use it all the time, but it isn't necessary if the water is hard enough. The 2 tbsp/gal recommendation is based on balancing between what the ich parasite will tolerate and what most fish will. For anything other than African cichlids, I would raise the salt to 2 tbsp/gal total. If you go to some unspecified higher amount some freshwater fish will really have a hard time.
 
Dont you use salt in your aquarium all the time? Then for the ICK add 2 t more of salt to that?

Do NOT do this. if you salt your tank all the time, subtract the amount of salt that you add regularly from the 2 tsp / g dose.

As already said several times, there's no need to put salt (NaCl) in your tanks unless treating for a disease or nitrITE toxicity.
 
How does salt help with nitrite toxicity? That smells like an urban legend to me.
 
How does salt help with nitrite toxicity? That smells like an urban legend to me.

You should work on that smell thing.. ;)

Just one source of several.

Nitrite Toxicosis In Freshwater Fish or Brown Blood Disease

Nitrite Toxicosis In Freshwater Fish

"Brown Blood Disease"

A common problem in freshwater aquariums and production systems is nitrite poisoning. This typically occurs in newly established tanks systems ("New Tank Syndrome") where the nitrifying bacteria, Nitrobacter, has not become established, in tanks that are over crowded and overfed, and after treating the tank with antibodies or chemicals that kill the bacteria. In all of these situations ammonia from metabolic wastes from the fish and from organic matter (uneaten food, dead plants, etc.) builds up. Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish. The bacteria Nitrosomonas oxidizes the ammonia to nitrite which is usually further oxidized to nitrate which has a low toxicity for fish. The nitrates are then removed through water changes and uptake by plants. If the Nitrobacter bacteria is not established or becomes overwhelmed by the amount of nitrite present, nitrite levels quickly reach toxic levels.

Nitrites are actively transported across the gills and readily oxidize hemoglobin to form methemoglobin. Methemoglobinemia results in hypoxia severe enough to cause sudden death but often the fish will live until they exert themselves. The term "brown blood disease" comes from the appearance of the blood that has high levels of methemoglobin (which is brown). Often, gross lesions are lacking, therefore; the brown appearance of the blood can be a diagnostic tool. Another diagnostic method involves measuring nitrite levels in the water. This may be unrewarding if mortality is high enough to decrease fish density and subsequent nitrite levels. Nitrite levels should not exceed 0.10 mg/1 in channel catfish or 0.50 mg/1 in salmonids. The LC50 for the majority of freshwater fish ranges from 0.60 to 200 mg/1. Saltwater fish have a much higher tolerance for nitrites.

Treatment not only includes decreasing the population to decrease ammonia levels, but also adding a chloride salt (in the form of sodium chloride or calcium chloride) to the water. The level of salt needed to treat (<50 mg/1) is not toxic to freshwater fish. The chloride ion competes with the nitrite ion at the gills. When the chloride ion is present at least three times and not more than six times the level of the nitrite ion, it is preferentially transported across the gills. Thus transport of the nitrite ion is reduced. Keeping the chloride levels in the water at least 20 mg/1 can prevent nitrite toxicosis. Additional treatments can include emergency water changes to dilute the nitrite problem.
- by Melanie Greeley, DVM
- edited by Tim Muench,
 
Interesting. I thought nitrite was taken up by passive diffusion. Now I want to hear what species leads that guy to report LC50 of 200 mg/L !
 
well the good news is the fish are doing fine they are all helthy looking and have been moved to the new bigger tank so they are even more happy

i dont really have a problem with nitrate dude to all the plants in the tank and the weekly water changes
 
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