Seachem Purigen

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Both Purgen and Carbon will remove coloring from water. The main difference tho is Purgen will/can last much longer, up to 6ish months depending on the amount of organics it pulls from the water, whereas carbon IMO losses it effectiveness within a couple weeks. You can tell when Purgen needs regenerating due to the beads changing to a dark brown color indicating it is full. Poly floss won't help remove the coloring in the water. Is it from tannins?


No, at least I don't think so. All wood has been until the water ran clear, then soaked in cold water for 24 hours to cool. Water ran clear again. As you know I have loads of plants, and I thought the correct cleaners - cats ottos snails - and just don't understand it. I just got the Purgen in the mail today. Just got to figure the dosage!! lol Math just isn't my thing anymore! lol Thanks Rivercats!!
 
It's been a full + day since the PWC & the water looks crystal clear and seems like that the wood is not leeching out anymore tannin. If I do place an order might just get it to try it out for the reason just to try it out.

thomasina, How is it working out for ya?
 
It's been a full + day since the PWC & the water looks crystal clear and seems like that the wood is not leeching out anymore tannin. If I do place an order might just get it to try it out for the reason just to try it out.

thomasina, How is it working out for ya?

I sit here with my poly floss sitting next to me. I have a bit of a quandary. I know what and how I am going to do the 20g tank, but I just can't figure out what to do with my 10g with the penguin filter. It has one of those blue filters that is attached to a bracket. So, if I take the blue filter out, I loose my bacteria. I do have a roll of cotton batting floating in the tank. If I take out the filter, then put in the roll of cotton, poly floss and Purigen, it will stop the bio-wheel. If I scrape off the blue filter stuff, and put the bracket back in, the problem still exists. I want to do both at the same time because of the mess I WILL make. Any ideas???
 
Nitrites oxidizes the water(by oxidizing i mean a chemical reduction in molecule saturation, not the injection of oxygen). This process can lead to generalized lack of oxygen. Nitrites convert to ammonia, if there is more nitrite than can be converted, the fish slowly suffers from a lack of oxygen. Again it goes back to filtration though. You take care if the filtration in your water and have a good biological filter, this takes care if itself and there would be no need for Seachem Purigen. If a 50% change in water is needed weekly something is wrong with the parameters of the water. Maybe a 50% change in a severe emergency not regularly though.

My filtration is sufficient for my tank. I have a marineland C-360 canister on my 44g, water volume is 40gallons after accounting for rocks/substrate. I'm turing over my water 9x per hour. I took out the bioballs and replaced with 500ml of seachem matrix. The matrix alone provides more than 350 m2 of available surface area for biological filtration (equivalent to 85 liters of bioballs).

I also have a koralia nano at the bottom, circulating water and a rio 800+ pointing to the surface, providing addional surface agitation. Oxygen levels are sufficient.

In addition to the matrix & purigen, I also run 2 bags of chemi-pure elite, matrix carbon, & api ammo chips. I never have any ammonia or nitrites. No disease breakouts or dead fish. I almost always have a female holding and have numerous fry growing in the nooks and crannies of the rocks. All the maintenece I need to do is to clean the filter out once per month, change the filter media when appropriate, and do 50% water change (20 gallons) once a week. Its less maintenence then others with larger tanks, but smaller overall bioloads.
 
I sit here with my poly floss sitting next to me. I have a bit of a quandary. I know what and how I am going to do the 20g tank, but I just can't figure out what to do with my 10g with the penguin filter. It has one of those blue filters that is attached to a bracket. So, if I take the blue filter out, I loose my bacteria. I do have a roll of cotton batting floating in the tank. If I take out the filter, then put in the roll of cotton, poly floss and Purigen, it will stop the bio-wheel. If I scrape off the blue filter stuff, and put the bracket back in, the problem still exists. I want to do both at the same time because of the mess I WILL make. Any ideas???

Are you able to put a small media bag of Purgen in behind the blue filter pad anywhere? I wouldn't worry about the floss at this point in the 10g. Or you could do that with some floss and leave the purgen out of the 10g.
 
I'm curious to know how purigen will work for my 34 gallon reef tank with phosphate pads....anyone?i know most of you that are discussing this topic have planted aquariums.
 
You think using a phosphate pad is worth using with purigen?or will purigen itself lower phosphates
 
Purgen won't remove phosphates as it's mainly used for removal of dissovled organics. I just meant you can safely use it in reef tanks and with phosphate pads in the filter with it.
 
You think using a phosphate pad is worth using with purigen?or will purigen itself lower phosphates

IMO, I dont think you need to worry about phosphates. Phosphate is an inorganic molecule that is not really soluble in water. When you pick up phosphate levels in liquid(this case your water in the tank) that means it is combining with something. Phosphate can be soluble in water if it reacted with an acid( an acid present in your tank would be Ammonia NH3) most likely if you have high levels of phosphate that you are worried about you probably have high levels of ammonia. To answer your question, I don't think it's really necessary to have phosphate pads along with Purigen, but I thought I'd give you some relevance to why phosphates would be present. Also,Purigen does not "get rid" of phosphate, it helps eliminate biological waste so that organic chemicals like nitrates,ammonia,ammonium, phosphate etc. do not become a problem in your water. Once present it will not "eliminate" it though rather help you avoid any more build up of it.
 
My perimeters as far as the quality of water are pristine so far,i been doing weekly water changes of 5 gallons ro/di for a 34 gallon tank .the only problem I had was when I cracked my last tank and had to do a complete transfer of everything with only one causality of a fish that jumped out of the tank.i never had an algae problem and never used anything but carbon I was just curious to know if using both would cause any chemical warfare.ill do an update of the purigen with the phosphate pads(even though I do not need the pads)afterwards.
 
After much deliberation~ I decided to tackle the tank and put the Purigen in the filter. I tell you all this so that you know what the outcome was and what the difference was! I took out everything out, every plant and pc. of DW. I drained the tank about 75% vacuuming all the substrate (white, small gravel that shows everything.) Needless to say the water was thick of debris. Each plant was swished in old tank water and the filter was cleaned out - took out the old course sponge and the big wad of cotton batting and rinsed the ceramic rings. I replaced it all with Poly floss, Purigen and the on top the ceramic rings. Left for two hours to get groceries! and when we came back it was Clear! I can not believe it! It always has been 'clean' with WC and what not,but the yellow ting never left. It has now!
 
Glad to hear it's working for ya! (y) Have you checked the purigen to see what color it has changed or hasnt?
 
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