Should I use my 55-gallon or 29 gallon tank?

[Randyneppl]

I wish I looked here before buying my fish!

Anyway, here is my current situation..... I took care of a teenager's goldfish and betta and as a "thank you" for something, I fixed up her fish aquariums (bought her betta a bigger tank and bought rocks, etc. which her fish didn't have). After fixing up her tanks, I was motivated and thought it would be fun to get a few goldfish (which I remembered to be hardy - ?) Anyway, on a whim at the store (8 days ago), I bought a 10-gallon tank AND fish. The person at the store said that would be fine since goldfish were hardy. She also sold me a golden dojo loach with the fish (they were in the same aquarium and looked cool.) I knew nothing about them and just trusted her. I then researched and learned that the loach may get 10 inches long, should live in an aquarium that is AT LEAST 29 gallons, and should have at least 2 dojo loach friends. Yikes! So, I promptly went on Craig's List and (long story) came home with a 29-gallon and 55-gallon tank. Today I set up the 29 gallon tank thinking that would be easier for starting out. My plan is to transfer the 3 fancy goldfish and loach to the new tank soon. I now know (from this site) that I should have cycled the first aquarium for 1-3 months before buying fish, but.... I'm already too late for that.

So, my first question, is how long should I wait to transfer fish?

Once the aquarium is established, I plan to add 2 more loaches. So, my second question is should I start with the 29 gallon and then move to the 55 gallon when needed? My rationale for this was that the 29G would be much easier. But I just read that larger aquariums may in fact be easier to maintain. If so, should I just start with the 55G??

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Randyneppl]

One more thing for any loach experts... Do I have the right 55 gallon aquarium?

I also read online that loaches need length. Information seems to be somewhat lacking online though, so any additional thoughts (confirming this or not) would be helpful. My 29 gallon tank is 30 inches long and my 55 gallon is only 36 inches long. When full grown, would 3 loaches need more than 36 inches anyway?? In another words, when the loaches grow, will I need a new tank regardless? Thanks.

 

[Sillyfishies]

I also read online that loaches need length. Information seems to be somewhat lacking online though, so any additional thoughts (confirming this or not) would be helpful. My 29 gallon tank is 30 inches long and my 55 gallon is only 36 inches long. When full grown, would 3 loaches need more than 36 inches anyway?? In another words, when the loaches grow, will I need a new tank regardless? Thanks.

You sure your 55 isn't 4 feet? How tall is it?

A longer tank is always better. 3 goldfish need at least 75 gallons and the dojo loaches need a different temperature.

I'd go directly into the 55 because toxins build up slower in bigger tanks.

Go buy the API master test kit and whenever your ammonia or nitrites get above 0.25 do a water change. Your tank is cycle when you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 10+ nitrates.

 

[Randyneppl]

Actually 65 gallons.... but 36 inches long

Thank you! This is VERY helpful.

Argh, I just looked at the Craigs List post again and it is 65 gallons, but still 36 inches. It's 36Lx18Wx25H.... When would you suggest I transfer?

What temperature does a Dojo need? I thought it didn't need a heater. PetSmart and PetCo actually had very different info on them (and one store had them with the tropical fish and the other with the goldfish). I concluded after some online research that cooler water was better, but would love your thoughts. Seems like info on the loach is so inconsistent.

 

[Sillyfishies]

Thank you! This is VERY helpful.

Argh, I just looked at the Craigs List post again and it is 65 gallons, but still 36 inches. It's 36Lx18Wx25H.... When would you suggest I transfer?

What temperature does a Dojo need? I thought it didn't need a heater. PetSmart and PetCo actually had very different info on them (and one store had them with the tropical fish and the other with the goldfish). I concluded after some online research that cooler water was better, but would love your thoughts. Seems like info on the loach is so inconsistent.

Check liveaquaria.com before you purchase ANY fish! They have the most reliable info.

For the 65, id get pool filter sand from ACE or where ever you can find it, silk plants and driftwood, and a canister filter. A heater may be necessary

 

[Randyneppl]

Thank you so much!!

Thanks!!

 

[Randyneppl]

A few more follow-up questions.....

Would you recommend actual driftwood or a driftwood imitation?

I have a Canister filter (Cascade 700), which came with the 65G (used) aquarium. Was used for saltwater. I washed the outside off already. I assume I should just run it in a large bucket with vinegar and water to finish cleaning it, is that right? Also, do I need to buy cartridges or other things to go along with it?

Oh, and another question -- When I read that 3 fancy goldfish need somewhere between 40-75 gallons of water, does that assume I have no other fish? If I have more fish, must I have a bigger tank?

Thanks!

 

[Sillyfishies]

Would you recommend actual driftwood or a driftwood imitation?

I have a Canister filter (Cascade 700), which came with the 65G (used) aquarium. Was used for saltwater. I washed the outside off already. I assume I should just run it in a large bucket with vinegar and water to finish cleaning it, is that right? Also, do I need to buy cartridges or other things to go along with it?

Oh, and another question -- When I read that 3 fancy goldfish need somewhere between 40-75 gallons of water, does that assume I have no other fish? If I have more fish, must I have a bigger tank?

Thanks!

Yes, 3 goldfish will be plenty, trust me.

Get real driftwood. I reccomend manzanita or anything you like.

The canister should be cleaned how you said and I recommend having a type of sponge, poly fill, and then biomax in it. You should ask someone else for help on canisters. I have none.

 

[Mebbid]

Definitely use the 65g tank. It will give you a larger margin for error.

As for the canister, you can stick just about any type of media in there from plastic pot scrubbies to ceramic rings. They have their ups and downs but if money isn't a big issue I would just fill it with ceramic rings and call it good.

For substrate there are plenty of affordable options; pool filter sand and play sand are both brown, black diamond blasting sand is black and silica sand is white. I would avoid the black diamond sand with loaches though.

If you are going to be adding drift wood I would suggest getting a bag of purigen to add to the filter to remove tannins that will leech from the wood. Mopani is my favorite type of drift wood.

 

[Randyneppl]

Hi, I thought I posted a BIG thank you to Sillyfishies and Mebbid, but just realized I wrote a post, but never actually posted it. Sorry and thank you so much to both of you!!!!

I have followed your advice and here is my current situation -- I am checking water quality constantly. I moved the 3 fancy goldfish to the 29 gallon aquarium (for now). I was worried I would never get the water quality under control if they were in the 10 gallon with the loach. The loach is still in the 10 gallon. The water quality there is Ammonia 4.0; Nitrite 0.25, and Nitrate 5. Yesterday I added Quick Start (figuring it couldn't hurt), but have not seen any improvement. I am doing a 10-20% water change daily. IS THIS A GOOD IDEA? Today I also bought Prime and am planning to use it when I do the water change (to remove and detoxify ammonia and nitrite). IS THIS A GOOD IDEA?

I have also set up the 65 gallon tank. It now has pool filter sand (thanks for the tips!), silk plants, and water. I purchased driftwood yesterday and am in the process of soaking it. I also purchased bio-rings and purigen for my Cascade 700.... Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get it to work. So, I just bought a Cascade 1000. Since this one is new, the chambers already have filters in them -- I assume I should change the thinkest bio-floss with the purigen?? Should I also try to add the biorings?

Finally, will the tank cycle without fish in it? Should I add water (high in ammonia) from the 10 gallon tank to help the cycling process? At what point should I add the loach (and perhaps goldfish)??? Any thoughts and suggestions welcome. THANKS!!!!

 

[JakeSpell]

You need to do some major water changes (~50%) to get the ammonia down. Just treat your tap water with prime and make sure it is the same temp as the tank water. Just use your hand to test the temp of the tap water and slowly add it to the tank.

The tank will cycle on it's on if you have an ammonia source. Look up the fishless cycle. There are good articles on here detailing how to cycle a tank without fish.

 

[Sillyfishies]

Hi, I thought I posted a BIG thank you to Sillyfishies and Mebbid, but just realized I wrote a post, but never actually posted it. Sorry and thank you so much to both of you!!!!

I have followed your advice and here is my current situation -- I am checking water quality constantly. I moved the 3 fancy goldfish to the 29 gallon aquarium (for now). I was worried I would never get the water quality under control if they were in the 10 gallon with the loach. The loach is still in the 10 gallon. The water quality there is Ammonia 4.0; Nitrite 0.25, and Nitrate 5. Yesterday I added Quick Start (figuring it couldn't hurt), but have not seen any improvement. I am doing a 10-20% water change daily. IS THIS A GOOD IDEA? Today I also bought Prime and am planning to use it when I do the water change (to remove and detoxify ammonia and nitrite). IS THIS A GOOD IDEA?

I have also set up the 65 gallon tank. It now has pool filter sand (thanks for the tips!), silk plants, and water. I purchased driftwood yesterday and am in the process of soaking it. I also purchased bio-rings and purigen for my Cascade 700.... Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get it to work. So, I just bought a Cascade 1000. Since this one is new, the chambers already have filters in them -- I assume I should change the thinkest bio-floss with the purigen?? Should I also try to add the biorings?

Finally, will the tank cycle without fish in it? Should I add water (high in ammonia) from the 10 gallon tank to help the cycling process? At what point should I add the loach (and perhaps goldfish)??? Any thoughts and suggestions welcome. THANKS!!!!

The 29 isn't cycled either, so move the goldfish to the 65 an everything else to the 29. Do daily 30% waterchanges on both. The prime will detoxify everything so they should be comfortable.

There was an article that proved stunting wasn't from tank size, it was from water quality.

 

[Fishperson]

Randy - Most of the information that you have received on here so far is very good and correct; use prime to help detoxify the water, put the goldfish in the 65, put the loach in the 29, etc., but I have a few things to add.

Cycling is when a source of ammonia is put in the water and the bacteria break it down into nitrite and that into nitrate, which is far less harmful than the other two, and is removed through water changes, or plants. A fishless cycle is when you add either pure ammonia or a source of ammonia (frozen shrimp (as in the ones you eat), or fish food), and let the bacteria do their magic. A fish in cycle is where you use fish to cycle it, as their waste produces ammonia, but you have to be careful with your water parameters, because the fish can die from high levels of ammonia or nitrite. Always make sure that your ammonia is at least less than .5 ppm, preferably less than .25 ppm, so do a water change (wc) to get the ammo down, I would say maybe 4 50% wc with about 2 hours in between on the tank with the loach, and enough to get the ammo at least below .5 on the goldfish tank, which should be the 65.

Also, what test kit do you have? You should buy the api freshwater master test kit, it is very good and accurate, and cheaper in the long run because it has more tests than test strips, and you don't have to pay for the fish that die when your strips mess up.

You can buy the test her on amazon for a flat 20$, or there is one going on on ebay that may end up being less than 20$
API Freshwater Master Test Kit UPC 317163010341 | eBay
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: API Freshwater Master Test Kit

Also, here are some links about cycling:
Tips and Tricks For Your Fastest Fishless Cycle! - Aquarium Advice
The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling - Aquarium Advice
How to Cycle a Fish Tank
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/fish-in-cycling-step-over-into-the-dark-side-176446.html

Feel free to pm me if you need any help, or post the question here. Everyone on here loves helping, because we were all new to this once, and know how it feels!
Hope this helps!

to Aquarium Advice!

 

[Randyneppl]

Thanks!

Okay, so I just transferred the goldfish to the 65 gallon tank and am in the process of moving the loach. I do now have the API test kits and am testing daily. I've been doing 10-20% water changes most days. I will increase that. Question -- Do you recommend a pump I should use for doing these water changes. I'm doing them manually and it's a bit time consuming. We do have a small sink within 10-15 feet of the aquariums.....

AGAIN, THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! Randy

 

[JakeSpell]

They make water changers that hook up to your sink that do work well. I'v thought about getting one but with one a 10 and 20 gallon its not really worth it for me.

You can go lookup videos on YouTube.