Starting a 46G Planted Tank -- First Timer

[NielsenE]

I've been wanting a tank for a while and finally took the plunge and ordered most of the components. I'd like to get a double check of what the store recommended to see how much I should trust them in the future and/or if I need to swap anything out. (I picked the tank size, and explicitly asked them for a CO2 system, since I know I want to be able to play with medium (or higher) light plants.)

Goals: Planted, medium light, peaceful community freshwater tank
Not too picky about fish or plant species -- want some nice color, some activity, some variety of sizes.

Here's the list of hardware:
46G Bowfront tank, canopy & stand
300 Watt in-line heater 5/8"
thermometer
Eheim Pro III 2073 filter system
Marine Aquatic Plant LED Light systems 36"-48" w/ timer
TurboTwist 18 Watt UV sterilizer
5# Co2 canister/regulator/bubble counter/ph controller/ maxijet pro 900 power head (for delivery the co2) -- didn't see a name brand on the co2 system, I think its their in-house bundled system.


Substrate: (I liked the mixed color substrate they had in some of their display tanks)
2 bags of black seachem flourite
3 20# bags of eco complete substrate
1 7kg bag of red flourite

(+ assorted water conditioners/chemical test kits)
Still working on a stocking list for flora and fauna.

 

[Autumnsky]

That is a great tank size, and really nice tank. What are you wanting to stock in it?

My DD just bought a used 46G bowfront tank on CL. Which I am helping her scape. So interested to see what you are doing with it.

 

[NielsenE]

I'm still working through a stocking plan. Last year I was looking into a 30G tank, but was still renting and the landlord wouldn't allow a fishtank of that size. I just bought a house so now I can start my tank. I could basically fit any of the ~36" long tanks, and size most of the other furniture in the room had slight curves to them, the bowfront seemed like the perfect fit (and a nice solid size)

When I was thinking of the 30G the stocking plan was something like:
8 danios
1 blue gourami
8 neon tetras
6 Cory's
after some feedback from here. Reasonably happy with that plan still, would love to hear what people would suggest adding given that I have 50% more volume than when I was planning before.

For plants, I'm wanting a heavily planted/ carpeted look, with at least 1-2 non-green plants if possible. I think the light is medium, but I'm still trying to get a better handle on the actual light output of the lighting setup they recommended. I'm assuming I'll have some of the "usual" of java moss/fern & crypts/swords. I like some of the "grass" like carpeting plants for the foreground, but I've read they can take over the tank very easily.

 

[Brian_Nano12g]

Sounds like a nice build! Must feel liberating to get the larger tank you've always wanted. Congrats on the new house and tank!

If the light hasn't been ordered already, I highly recommend the BML (buildmyLED.com) lights (the Dutch spectrum is my preferred choice) or Ecoxotic E-Series. These lights both have options for color spectrum and dimming -- both with high output capability. The Marineland Aquatic Plant LED is okay, but it's not dimmable and IMO, there's better options now for the money.

I wonder what CO2 system you ordered through them? Also, look into dry ferts from GLA. PPS-Pro vs. EI dosing. You'll need good comprehensive ferts for your goals.

Here are some good options for reds: alternanthera reineckii 'mini', ludwigia sp. red, ludwigia glandulosa, rotala colorata, and rotala macrandra. Plenty of more out there.

Dwarf Hair Grass (e. belem or e. parvula) would make a good foreground. DHG can spread and be a little invasive. You can put some substrate barriers, like cut up polypropylene placemats to help block the runners from getting all over the place.

 

[Autumnsky]

The Marineland LED I had purchased had a poor color kinda greenish and I returned it.

 

[NielsenE]

Thank you both for the feedback on the light; I'm going to stick with it for now (already ordered) to see how I like it, but I'll definitely keep the BML site in mind if I need to change!

I believe the CO2 system is a unbranded collection of components that they use in their tanks. When it gets delivered I'll try to see if I can identify the constituent parts. (Probably still a week out).

I'll spend sometime tonight reading up on the different fert options.

 

[NielsenE]

Spent some more time looking over eventual stocking plans on AqAdvisor and through several books. How does this look for the fishies:
6 Swordtails
10 Cardinal Tetras
5 Panda Corys
1 Dwarf Gourami
1 Blue Ram
1 Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (Both AqAdvisor and the reference books indicate it coexists with the other species and isn't normal Cichlid temperament)

 

[NielsenE]

All the hardware is getting delivered on Thursday. Stopped by the shop again last night to get some help with plant selection. (Initially they had thought it simpler to bring the plants with them when the delivered everything, but now they're recommending that I pick them up a day or so later to give everything time to settle).

Here's my planned list:
Background & mid-ground
Purple Cabomba (Cabomba pulcherrima)
Cabomba Furcata (Cabomba Furcata)
Red Melon Sword (Echinodorus Barthii)
Apon Ulvaceus (Aponogeton, Ulvaceus)
Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)
Dwarf Lily (Nymphaea Rubra)

Foreground:
Dwarf Baby Tears (Hemianthus callitrichoides)
3 Stavrogene repens
3 Rosettes Swords (Parviflorus parviflorus 'Tropica)

I've some rough ideas at layout (mainly just going on keeping the plants with the highest light requirements in the areas of highest PAR, and going for contrasting leaf types.

I was looking for a) good carpeting foreground, b) at least one reddish plant, c) at least one wispy/lacy, d) at least one broad leaf.

These were all in-stock, but I don't think they're holding them for me so I can still make changes. Does this look like a nice mix of species for a first timer? I'd like to get to a fairly heavily planted look, I think my foreground quantities might be a little low for that, but as I gain experience I can add more to avoid just messing up a ton right off the bat. (I was going to get 3 of the DBT, but they suggested I try just one first bundle first as its probably the most demanding of my selections)

 

[NielsenE]

Thought of some more questions:

1) So tank gets setup (all hardware hooked up, substrate added, and filled) by the LFS delivery team on thursday. They're recommending that it settle for ~24 hours before I add the plants.
A) I'm assuming while its settling I should be running the filter and the UV sterlizier, but not the CO2 or lights. Right?
B) I can start a fishless cycle at this point.
C) Should I request that the tank is only partially filled? (Ie is it easier to plant in a 33-50% filled tank? As long as the water is added carefully after planting it shouldn't re-suspend/agitate the substrate? (Obviously needs to be full enough to allow filter to work)
2) I'll be picking up the plants Friday evening. Is either of the following better:
A) Plant immediately when I get home
i) Turn on CO2/Lights for a couple of hours in the evening
ii) Just wait to start the normal CO2/Light timing the next day
B) Plant Saturday morning, starting lights/CO2 immediately on its normal cycle

What's the best way to store (either temporarily while planting some or overnight in the case of 2B) the plants?

Are there good tutorials on the actual planting process? I've read bits about removing the rock wool/etc and the general guidelines on how deep to plant different species. I'm looking more for information on how to setup a work area for success.

My gut instinct is something like
a) keep the plants in a water filled bucket (assume de-chlorinated) until you're working with them
b) for the bundled types that need to be teased apart, work in a shallow pan/tub with water to keep them from drying out?

 

[Fishperson]

Personally I like option A ii the best. Just put them in the tank overnight.

For planting, it's mostly easy. Remove as much rockwool as possible, and place each stem around an inch under the substrate so it does not float out.

 

[Fishperson]

Also I would have it completely full or close to it before planting.

As far as your stock, it is a good plan I guess but I personally dislike swordtails. I've never had them because they supposedly have a high bioload. I mean, if what I heard is true, 1 swordtail= 5-8 neon tetras.

I like the plan you had for your 30 gallon plus 12 rummynose tetras. It would be a great middle school for the tank.

 

[NielsenE]

Thanks for the feedback!

Any comments on my plant selection? Do I have too many species? Should I be getting multiples of more of them?

 

[NielsenE]

Also, I don't have the hardness test kit yet, I'll need to pick that up, but just reading the city's water quality report suggests the water here is on the rather soft side (1 GH), which I believe means I'll need to be more careful in terms of amount of CO2 that gets injected, since there's less to buffer large swings. Is this the type of situation where I'll want to consider raising the hardness? (Assuming I get a kit and the measured values match the city's report)

 

[Fishperson]

Buy some GH booster at the pet store. It supplies some calcium and magnesium to buffer your water and its good for plants.

 

[NielsenE]

Tank is setup (just all the hardware, no flora or fauna yet).

Still need to pick up the gH tester and gH booster.

pH of the tap water is close to 8, and even with the CO2 running its hanging out there, but maybe overnight it'll pull that down a little.

Dosed some ammonia to start a fishless cycle and of course the pH is going even higher. Only around 2ppm of ammonia now rather than 4 as recommended, feel like i should wait until I get some buffering in place to go to the full dose.

 

[Spencer1044]

I'm just gonna recommend one thing that worked wonders for me . Dirt. But organic top soil (nothing with chemicals) under your substrate about 1/2 to 1 inch thick and this is what it did for my tank in under two moths once I switched keep In mind I only use flourish every other week. I really recommend you doing this.


Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

 

[Spencer1044]

Sorry about bad resolution but all the plants were dying in the beginning


Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

 

[Fishperson]

If your pH is 8 it is probably well buffered already.

 

[NielsenE]

Well that's why I want to get a test Since the city reports the water is very soft (below 16mg/l ie less than 1 GH) and the tap is roughly pH 8. Dosing to 1ppm ammonia for a fishless cycle raises the pH to 9, which seems high to me and suggests low buffering capacity. (Makes me worried about the pH crash to come in stage two of the cycle).

 

[NielsenE]

Here's the first day photo (after a night of settling):


Yes, I need to get a longer CO2 hose so the reactor can be placed lower in the tank! I'll get that tonight when I pick up my plants.