T8 vs t5 vs Aqua Illumination Vega

[sugirthan7854]

Hi I used a 10 gallon tank with this bulb the pic i posted ( ZOOMED ULTRA SUN 6500K) and plants grew so fast no algae at all!

I got a 20 long tank which is only 12" tall. I'm using my aqua illumination vegas which I use to use it on my reef tank. The plants are getting holes and the rest not growing, while in the 10 gallon tank it grew so fast i never even did water change over 7months in the 10 gallon I use to have. Is it because the leds are not made for planted tanks? it has cool whites reds deep blue blue royal bank green.

I want to change the light if this is the issue, do I get t5ho or t5 or t8? I loved the zoomed ultra sun bulb how it grew plans. Im using Fluval stratum soil with 17 neon tetras only and 2 small corydoras. Hob filter with sponge and ceramics. thanks guys!!

 

[Delapool]

Hi, LEDs are fine for planted tanks but usually different spectrum between FW and SW (second link). I'd say your reef light is too high in blues and too intense in general. I have grown plants under reef lights using just the white light (which is high in blues anyways) and the blue lights switched off.

The high light would explain the plants getting holes which sounds like potassium shortfall (particularly if older leaves). The plants are trying to grow but can't get the CO2 and nutrients to keep pace.

Tips for a Successful Planted Aquarium - Aquarium Fish Forum

Lighting Spectrum and Photosythesis - Lighting - Aquatic Plant Central

Aquatic plant deficiency - Aquarium-fertilizer.com

 

[sugirthan7854]

thanks for the reply, Im confused though my led each led is controllable by % intensity, cool white in sw or fw should be the same? cool white is cool white right? so why cant i control each led to reach 6500 k temperature?

 

[Fresh2o]

I would think that cool white is a consistent color regardless of the application.
Not sure that controllers work that way. I believe they only control intensity, not temperature/color.
Sounds like a nutrient deficiency brought on by the increased lighting. What is your fertilization regimen and has it changed since adding the light?


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[Delapool]

thanks for the reply, Im confused though my led each led is controllable by % intensity, cool white in sw or fw should be the same? cool white is cool white right? so why cant i control each led to reach 6500 k temperature?

My experience has been that while the lighting spectrum of say cool white may the same, reef lights tend to be more high powered and pump out more radiation. This may be a factor of being here in Australia where planted tank lights are still playing catch-up to reef lights in terms of quality/power of LED bulbs.

I found with reef LED lights that I needed CO2 injection and dry dosing ferts, particularly potassium. The nitrates and phosphates were never too bad. The plants were trying to make use of the intense light radiation but couldn't get enough CO2 and ferts, so were robbing the lower leaves of elements.

This link allows you to enter the LED bulbs you have (assuming same quality) to see where spectrum is lost by depth.

http://www.bmlcustom.com/custom-led-strip/


Edit - just realised you may have a dimmer which will help. I found a half setting on the dimmer could still get pearling that the t5ho or entry level LEDs could not produce.

This may reflect how the white light is being generated eg is it an efficient blue bulb with yellow phosphor to give white light that we see or some other design.

http://www.extremetech.com/electron...ht-bulb-uses-blue-leds-to-produce-white-light

 

[sugirthan7854]

No Aqua Illumination LEDS that I have , I can control each color and the intensity, if I wanted I can turn of all the blues.

Example: Finnex Ray led for freshwater: 7000k white leds, Reds, Greens

Aqua Illumination Vega: Coolwhites, Reds, Greens, Royal Blue, Blue, Deep blue

Is it me or does my led have everything finnex has? if i Turn off all the blues ?

You said its much more powerful, but I can turn down the intensity. I have my cool white at 30% and red and green at 18%. If i plug a t5ho its WAY more brighter for example

 

[Delapool]

No Aqua Illumination LEDS that I have , I can control each color and the intensity, if I wanted I can turn of all the blues.



Example: Finnex Ray led for freshwater: 7000k white leds, Reds, Greens



Aqua Illumination Vega: Coolwhites, Reds, Greens, Royal Blue, Blue, Deep blue



Is it me or does my led have everything finnex has? if i Turn off all the blues ?



You said its much more powerful, but I can turn down the intensity. I have my cool white at 30% and red and green at 18%. If i plug a t5ho its WAY more brighter for example

Sounds good. That sort of dial down on intensity would make sense. Thanks for the info.

You can try putting the LEDs into the BML DIY section and see how it all compares with other LEDs and a actual BML light designed for planted tanks (see other sections on website). If I had the money the BML is one I'd love to get.

It will show spectrum generated and the loss (particularly with the reds) at depth (or it used to anyways). I've tried the website with mine and I've just assumed cool white is generated the same. Don't know. Just drag and drop LEDs down onto a light fitting to get it to show results.

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However you could go off the plants as well. At the present settings the plants are telling you that light intensity is too high relative to nutrients/co2 they can source. Potassium I've found is usually the first to show a deficiency with pin prick holes occurring in lower leaves. CO2 is the other imo.

Can you list if you are adding any ferts and co2? How long are lights running?

I'd have all the blues on the vega turned off as a start, adjust the LEDs on and intensity to match a BML and add/increase ferts / co2. And try that. Then lower light intensity/lighting period further if still problems.

I can't comment specifically on those LEDs as I used different ones.

I've never managed to burn plants with lights even at surface although have found that new plants often drop leaves as they adjust to my tank.