Walstad method

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DragonFish71

DragonFish71

Great white snark
Joined
Apr 4, 2009
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Longmont, Colorado
Since I have nothing but time, spare aquariums and enough parts/pieces to do quite a few more set-ups (ahem, should I have the urge to do so) :cool:, I've been reading about the Walstad method for planted tanks. She has her choices for soil so my question is:

I have some Happy Frog Organic potting soil that I use for plants in my Fire Belly toad tank, would this be a good choice for a Walstad tank?

Happy Frog Potting Soil (12qt & 2cf) | Planet Natural

Ingredients: Composted forest humus, sphagnum peat moss, perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, humic acid (derived from Leonardite), oyster shell and dolomite lime (for pH adjustment).
 
Based on absolutely nothing but a hunch, I'd worry about tannins. Both for lowering pH too low and for possibly limiting light in the lower stratum.
 
I like experiments! Also... If you were to do this tank, my killi's live in puddles in Africa.. They're bulletproof! Perfect for this kind of tank! Just saying is all;)
 
HN1 said:
Based on absolutely nothing but a hunch, I'd worry about tannins. Both for lowering pH too low and for possibly limiting light in the lower stratum.
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I was thinking about that as well. Tannins in general don't bother me, lighting wouldn't be too much of an issue, as for the pH, I was thinking some crushed coral mixed with the soil.

Eventually the tannins would subside (I hope) with proper maintenance.

Great minds and all that ;)
 
For the top layer, I still have some 3m color quartz black that I would be using. The plants would be lower light varieties like crypts.
 
Awesome!! Here they are.. Just waiting for their babies to get an upgrade;)

image-2318030557.jpg
 
Beautiful!!

Maybe if I soak the soil for a bit first that might help with some of the tannins, or at least give me an idea of how tannin rich it would be. I have a huge bag of it. I could soak some in a jar to get an idea of how much it would release.
 
So would this be completely void of any mechanical devices? Or would you add a fan or power head for surface agitation?
 
DragonFish71 said:
I'd still have a filter. I don't trust any method that foregos a filter altogether.
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cool, I did some quick research and found a lot of glorified betta bowls.. I like the premise here though! Can't wait to see the build! Better get hubby a new welding mask;)
 
Ha, no need to weld anything for this. Already have the space for it under my 115 angelfish tank. When he built the stands for both of the 115s (they are corner to corner in the basement) he made room under them for 10g tanks.
 
I was referring to buying his approval of another tank with sweet gifts! But seeing as he built the stand with expansion spots than I'd say you're already looking at the green light;)
 
Ha, ah I see. I'd only need to buy his approval if I was buying a new tank. Since this would be something I already have around the house, he can deal ;)
 
What types of plants? Like anarchis and pathos type plants?? Nitrate sponges?
 
FishEggs said:
what is in it that would not work?
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This is what's in the Happy Frog soil that I have:

Ingredients: Composted forest humus, sphagnum peat moss, perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, humic acid (derived from Leonardite), oyster shell and dolomite lime (for pH adjustment).


This is what's in the MGOC that is suggested:

50-55% composted bark
Sphagnum peat moss
Pasteurized poultry litter
“organic wetting agent” (whatever that is)



Just from what I've been reading, they make it sound like the guano and worm castings would be a bad thing. I can't see how, other than the normal ammonia issues.
 
well earth worm castings and bat guano would be replacing the poultry litter. the oyster shell is a calcium source and dolomite should help buffer the ph and hardness. The humic acid might make the water too acidic.
I would try it to see what happens of course with out fish for a while until you know what the water will be like.
Could do a couple wet dry cycles like with mineralized soil just to alleviate some of the tannins and ammonia spikes.
 
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