jonathan85365
Aquarium Advice Freak
I'm just new to the amphibious life I have a ten gallon with a good filter just curious if anyone could help me I saw them at pet supermarket and I could use any advice I can get
Water dogs in a ten gallon setup need advice help
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It's very important to find out if they're actually Water Dogs, which are Tiger Salamanders or Axolotls. For the larval (aquatic) stage of the Tigers, the care is the same as an axolotl. Once they morph, you will need a terrestrial (land) set up.
I've included an axolotl caresheet below to help you out.
Introduction
Common name: Axolotl
Scientific name: Ambystoma Mexicanum
Originated from: Mexico
Lifespan: 10-20 years with proper care
Size: 10-12 inches, not sexable until 7+ inches
An Axolotl is a neotenic salamander. Neoteny is essentially an adult animal retaining it’s juvenile features. Axolotls never lose their fluffy gills and dorsal fin in order to become a terrestrial salamander. They are entirely aquatic, and grow up, reproduce, and live their whole lives in this form.
Originally native to Lake Xochimilco and Lake Chalco, the Axolotl’s habitat in the wild has been virtually destroyed. While abundant in captivity, they are on the CITES Endangered Species list, and only a bleak handful exist in what is left of the Xochimilco canals.
They have been wildly bred in captivity due to their interesting looks, and the astonishing ability to regenerate lost body parts and even some organs.
Axolotls are naturally curious and friendly beings. While they may not be able to join you on land, they will bond with you, recognize you and pay attention to you as soon as they get accustomed to you.
Housing
The general requirement for a single adult axolotl is a 10 gallon aquarium. For two, a 20 long will suffice. Axolotls are bottom-dwellers, and while they can swim, as they reach adulthood they are not very good at it. Floorspace is crucial. Try to go with wider tanks if you progress to more, such as a 40 breeder. All of these can be replaced by a similar sized sterilite tub. The tank or tub does not have to be filled all the way, we believe it is better to do it half-way as it puts less pressure on the animal’s body, however, if filled all the way, a lid on their enclosure is required. While they will not climb out, if spooked, they may leap and find themselves in a fatal position.
Axolotls require cool (65-73 degrees fahrenheit), dechlorinated water. We personally trust and use Reptisafe, as it’s made for use with aquatics like salamanders and lacks some of the unnecessary chemicals aquarium dechlorinators have. If kept at over 75 degrees for longer than even an hour, it will be fatal to your lotl. It is a good idea to keep them in the coolest part of your house. During the hot summers, frozen water bottles can be rotated in and out of the tank as they thaw to keep it cool, and icepacks can be applied to the outside of the tank. Small fans are another option that can drop temps anywhere from 3-6 degrees. Axolotl water does not have to be aged or cycled.
Substrate may be sand or the tank can be left barebottom. Gravel is easy to be swallowed and is a quick killer.
Large PVC pipe, fake plants, clay pots (preferably on their sides), and aquarium ornaments with no sharp edges are perfect for hides and decor and to give your lotls something to climb on and investigate. All should be washed well (even boiled if you’re super cautious) before being placed in your tank.
Filters are not necessary, but are beneficial. Without them, you will have to do frequent water changes. The best option is a sponge filter, easy to purchase online, though you can use an external filter as long as the current isn’t strong. As axolotls have lungs and gills, they do not need an airstone as long as there is moving water allowing oxygen into their tank.
Lighting is not required. Placing the tank in a well-lit room or offering a low light above or to the side of the tank is acceptable, though strong lights should never be used, as they have no eyelids and it can be torturous.
Axolotls should only be housed with other axolotls. They will devour small fish, as well as small fish will pick at their gills, and other freshwater species such as fancy goldfish or plecos will attack their soft bodies with ease and cause severe wounds.
Feeding
Axolotls can be happily fed a diet of frozen bloodworms, live earthworms, or pellets. Some will not immediately take to pellet food, but otherwise axolotls aren’t picky eaters. Their feeding instinct can be triggered by dropping pellets ontop of their head. An adult is a perfect weight if the widest point of their body is the same width as their head, though this can change depending on their sex or if they’re planning to lay eggs. Juveniles are difficult to over-feed. A good rule for frozen bloodworms is to offer a chunk the size, or slightly smaller, of their head. Juveniles should be fed everyday, and adults can be fed small portions every day or at least well fed 4 times a week.
Cleaning
Axolotls with filters require at least a 50% water change once a week, while those without require extensive water changes every 3-4 days. A good rule of thumb Is that if the water looks dirty- change it. It’s a good idea to spot-clean your tank by removing un-eaten food and waste with a small net or turkey baster in the meantime.
I've included an axolotl caresheet below to help you out.
Introduction
Common name: Axolotl
Scientific name: Ambystoma Mexicanum
Originated from: Mexico
Lifespan: 10-20 years with proper care
Size: 10-12 inches, not sexable until 7+ inches
An Axolotl is a neotenic salamander. Neoteny is essentially an adult animal retaining it’s juvenile features. Axolotls never lose their fluffy gills and dorsal fin in order to become a terrestrial salamander. They are entirely aquatic, and grow up, reproduce, and live their whole lives in this form.
Originally native to Lake Xochimilco and Lake Chalco, the Axolotl’s habitat in the wild has been virtually destroyed. While abundant in captivity, they are on the CITES Endangered Species list, and only a bleak handful exist in what is left of the Xochimilco canals.
They have been wildly bred in captivity due to their interesting looks, and the astonishing ability to regenerate lost body parts and even some organs.
Axolotls are naturally curious and friendly beings. While they may not be able to join you on land, they will bond with you, recognize you and pay attention to you as soon as they get accustomed to you.
Housing
The general requirement for a single adult axolotl is a 10 gallon aquarium. For two, a 20 long will suffice. Axolotls are bottom-dwellers, and while they can swim, as they reach adulthood they are not very good at it. Floorspace is crucial. Try to go with wider tanks if you progress to more, such as a 40 breeder. All of these can be replaced by a similar sized sterilite tub. The tank or tub does not have to be filled all the way, we believe it is better to do it half-way as it puts less pressure on the animal’s body, however, if filled all the way, a lid on their enclosure is required. While they will not climb out, if spooked, they may leap and find themselves in a fatal position.
Axolotls require cool (65-73 degrees fahrenheit), dechlorinated water. We personally trust and use Reptisafe, as it’s made for use with aquatics like salamanders and lacks some of the unnecessary chemicals aquarium dechlorinators have. If kept at over 75 degrees for longer than even an hour, it will be fatal to your lotl. It is a good idea to keep them in the coolest part of your house. During the hot summers, frozen water bottles can be rotated in and out of the tank as they thaw to keep it cool, and icepacks can be applied to the outside of the tank. Small fans are another option that can drop temps anywhere from 3-6 degrees. Axolotl water does not have to be aged or cycled.
Substrate may be sand or the tank can be left barebottom. Gravel is easy to be swallowed and is a quick killer.
Large PVC pipe, fake plants, clay pots (preferably on their sides), and aquarium ornaments with no sharp edges are perfect for hides and decor and to give your lotls something to climb on and investigate. All should be washed well (even boiled if you’re super cautious) before being placed in your tank.
Filters are not necessary, but are beneficial. Without them, you will have to do frequent water changes. The best option is a sponge filter, easy to purchase online, though you can use an external filter as long as the current isn’t strong. As axolotls have lungs and gills, they do not need an airstone as long as there is moving water allowing oxygen into their tank.
Lighting is not required. Placing the tank in a well-lit room or offering a low light above or to the side of the tank is acceptable, though strong lights should never be used, as they have no eyelids and it can be torturous.
Axolotls should only be housed with other axolotls. They will devour small fish, as well as small fish will pick at their gills, and other freshwater species such as fancy goldfish or plecos will attack their soft bodies with ease and cause severe wounds.
Feeding
Axolotls can be happily fed a diet of frozen bloodworms, live earthworms, or pellets. Some will not immediately take to pellet food, but otherwise axolotls aren’t picky eaters. Their feeding instinct can be triggered by dropping pellets ontop of their head. An adult is a perfect weight if the widest point of their body is the same width as their head, though this can change depending on their sex or if they’re planning to lay eggs. Juveniles are difficult to over-feed. A good rule for frozen bloodworms is to offer a chunk the size, or slightly smaller, of their head. Juveniles should be fed everyday, and adults can be fed small portions every day or at least well fed 4 times a week.
Cleaning
Axolotls with filters require at least a 50% water change once a week, while those without require extensive water changes every 3-4 days. A good rule of thumb Is that if the water looks dirty- change it. It’s a good idea to spot-clean your tank by removing un-eaten food and waste with a small net or turkey baster in the meantime.
jonathan85365
Aquarium Advice Freak
Shouldn't the salamander swim even as an adult I'd get a good size tank like 125 or so and make it filled with water and a top section with a ramp with a terrarium that's moist
Once Tigers morph, they're terrible swimmers and need a shallow dish just deep enough to lay in. Most won't even use them, relying on damp substrate to stay properly hydrated.
Recommended for an adult salamander in a 10 gal is a hide, 3-4" of damp (but not soupy) coconut fiber substrate with a shallow dish. They're a burrowing and shy species, so you wont see them very often once they morph.
Recommended for an adult salamander in a 10 gal is a hide, 3-4" of damp (but not soupy) coconut fiber substrate with a shallow dish. They're a burrowing and shy species, so you wont see them very often once they morph.
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