Wavepoint t5 HO keeps tripping...

[Flaxon-Waxon]

I have my light plugged into a GE15079 wall timer, and all of a sudden it's starting to trip the GFCI breaker upon start up. Hasn't been happening for a year, just started. It used to be on an extension cord, and I figured that may be it, but now it's plugged directly into the wall and still tripping... Any electricians help here? Has the timer gone bad possibly?

 

[Chris J]

Is there a chance the timer got wet? That's what happened to mine, and it was barely any water, it just happened to fall straight into the outlet on it, when I re-plugged it in it started buzzing and the my power strip tripped.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

Is there a chance the timer got wet? That's what happened to mine, and it was barely any water, it just happened to fall straight into the outlet on it, when I re-plugged it in it started buzzing and the my power strip tripped.

Not that I can recall... But it's always a possibility. I may just get a new timer, they're cheap enough.

 

[Chris J]

It's worth a shot.

 

[walklong]

Does the GFCI trip with just the light connected?

 

[walklong]

30+ years experience as electrician.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

Does the GFCI trip with just the light connected?

The light has a gfci built into the plug, so yes.

 

[walklong]

The light, when plugged into a wall outlet (taking the timer out of the circuit for now) directly DOES trip the inline gfci = a short in the lamp; does NOT trip the gfci = bad timer.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

The light, when plugged into a wall outlet (taking the timer out of the circuit for now) directly DOES trip the inline gfci = a short in the lamp; does NOT trip the gfci = bad timer.

Yea, it did not trip plugged directly into the wall...

So I got my original light back, the cord was warrantied, so I replaced it and it now works... Here's what's happening. I cycle through the "manual" on and off, and it's no longer tripping, but it's making a sound like it is... This sound was definitely not present beforehand... Any thoughts as to what this might be?

 

[walklong]

We're speaking of the sound as if the GFCI is doing its thing, but it isn't disconnecting the circuit? My first guess would be that the timer's mechanical components are waving adios to you.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

We're speaking of the sound as if the GFCI is doing its thing, but it isn't disconnecting the circuit? My first guess would be that the timer's mechanical components are waving adios to you.

Ok... So new timer it is. With all your experience, and good recommendations on a timer? This one lasted me about a year. I would imagine due to the power that is drawn from these high output lights? Should I get a non-electronic timer where you push the tabs down depending on what times you want? Or is there a juiced up timer I can get??

 

[walklong]

What is the amp draw for your light?

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

What is the amp draw for your light?

Errrrrrrr.... 8-/

It's a 216 watt light fixture...

 

[walklong]

Thanks, I'd suggest Intermatic P1121 heavy duty, 15 amp outdoor - Amazon has them $21 (I think). The outdoor bit gets materials and design that are stouter than the run-of-the-mill. (I hope I'm remembering the model # - but the basics should get you there). Your fixture is drawing enough that the light duty wiring in the timer gets hot, the plastic warps and/or deforms and voila - mystery noises.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

Thanks, I'd suggest Intermatic P1121 heavy duty, 15 amp outdoor - Amazon has them $21 (I think). The outdoor bit gets materials and design that are stouter than the run-of-the-mill. (I hope I'm remembering the model # - but the basics should get you there). Your fixture is drawing enough that the light duty wiring in the timer gets hot, the plastic warps and/or deforms and voila - mystery noises.

Excellent... Thanks so much for your help with this! I'll chalk it up to a bad timer and replace it... I'll keep you updated if I have any more questions!

 

[walklong]

Please do, I'm happy to help.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

Hey how do you figure out the amp draw?

 

[walklong]

This isn't quite true for every load (motor, etc), but for this situation, it should be close: amps = watts/volts.

So, in this case, IF (note the big IF) we have 120 volts at the fixture plug, and the true wattage is 216, the amps should be just shy of 2. The usual problem is that the true numbers, as measued on the circuit, are different than what the label says we should find. A little corrosion and a loose connection somewhere and a ½ amp load is suddenly 3 amps - and every load creates heat - which is often not dissipated adequately.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

This isn't quite true for every load (motor, etc), but for this situation, it should be close: amps = watts/volts.

So, in this case, IF (note the big IF) we have 120 volts at the fixture plug, and the true wattage is 216, the amps should be just shy of 2. The usual problem is that the true numbers, as measued on the circuit, are different than what the label says we should find. A little corrosion and a loose connection somewhere and a ½ amp load is suddenly 3 amps - and every load creates heat - which is often not dissipated adequately.

Cool, thanks... So a 15 amp timer SHOULD suffice, eh?

 

[walklong]

The wiring in a 15a timer, when it's new, is absolutely sufficient. Over time, a well made timer will be fine. The dollar store variety, not so much.