i have just bought an aquarium and i curently have 3 swordtails and they all seem to keep to thr very bottem of the tank do you have any idea what is wrong with them or any causes i do not currently have any live plants but i am getting them soon as i have heard swordtails like them
whats wrong with my swordtails?
- Thread starter vertox
- Start date
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new2betas
Aquarium Advice Addict
Did you cycle the tank first or are you cycling with fish? What size tank? Do you have a test kit to test your water parameters?
i am cycling with fish and my tank is 30cm tall and 25cm deep and wide and no i do not have a akit to test the water paremeters although i do have one for swiming pools as the family buiseness makes pools will this do to test my water?
roka64
Aquarium Advice Addict
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
- Messages
- 13,858
You will want a kit that tests for ammonia (very toxic to fish), nitrItes (also toxic) and nitrAtes.
What you are seeing are the effects of toxic water on your fish. The best, most humane thing to do would be to take them back and do a fishless cycle.
What you are seeing are the effects of toxic water on your fish. The best, most humane thing to do would be to take them back and do a fishless cycle.
SpeedEuphoria
Aquarium Advice Addict
How many fish and how many gallons/liters?
How long have you had the fish?
Did you use a water conditioner?
You have a couple options, take some back, watch them die, or be diligent in water changes and get the water tested/buy a test kit
How long have you had the fish?
Did you use a water conditioner?
You have a couple options, take some back, watch them die, or be diligent in water changes and get the water tested/buy a test kit
i am going to do the best i can to keep them alive as long as i can by changing the water and i will try to get my hands on a awater tester and i have 3 fish and i have only ha dthem for 2 days and i pesonally did not set the tank up my friends did but they used a chemical called safestart which i think is the water conditioner if they keep like this i will return them tomorrow wish me luck i hate seeing sick animale :'(
AlissasDad
Aquarium Advice Apprentice
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2008
- Messages
- 33
The test kit you want is called "Master Test Kit" made by a company called API. I got mine at PetsMart. Any local fish store should have it.
The target readings are 0's for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. The pH reading is not critical so long as it remains constant.
You can expect to do daily water changes (25%-50%) for the next 3-4 weeks until the tank has had a chance to completely "cycle". Test your tap water using the same test kit before you start with the water changes to be sure it's not adding any undesirables to the mix. Also, when you replace the water, make sure you add a conditioner to the water *before* you add it to the tank. Your tap water is chlorinated and kills off the"good" bacteria needed to complete the "cycle". Adding the conditioner to the water before you add the water to the tank removes (or inactivates) the chlorine so it doesn't have a chance to interfere with cycling your tank.
The preferred conditioner seems to be Prime brand, although I think any that state that they remove chlorine and chlorimine should be fine.
It's a lot of work and requires a commitment on your part to stick with it, but if you do, your fish will live much longer and healthier and you'll appreciate your fish that much more.
I'm pretty new to this whole "cycle" process myself, so I'm speaking from relatively new experience.
The target readings are 0's for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. The pH reading is not critical so long as it remains constant.
You can expect to do daily water changes (25%-50%) for the next 3-4 weeks until the tank has had a chance to completely "cycle". Test your tap water using the same test kit before you start with the water changes to be sure it's not adding any undesirables to the mix. Also, when you replace the water, make sure you add a conditioner to the water *before* you add it to the tank. Your tap water is chlorinated and kills off the"good" bacteria needed to complete the "cycle". Adding the conditioner to the water before you add the water to the tank removes (or inactivates) the chlorine so it doesn't have a chance to interfere with cycling your tank.
The preferred conditioner seems to be Prime brand, although I think any that state that they remove chlorine and chlorimine should be fine.
It's a lot of work and requires a commitment on your part to stick with it, but if you do, your fish will live much longer and healthier and you'll appreciate your fish that much more.
I'm pretty new to this whole "cycle" process myself, so I'm speaking from relatively new experience.
Alaris
Aquarium Advice FINatic
If you can't give them back to your friend, then take them to the pet store.
SafeStart is one of those bogus "cycle your new tank instantly" chemicals. Ditch it. You want a dechlorinator like Seachem Prime.
Once you get that test kit you want to keep your ammonia and nitrIte below 0.5ppm and your nitrAtes below 40ppm. Test your tap water for ammonia. Prime will take care of up to 0.8ppm with a single dose. If it's higher than that you can do a double dose safely. For an emergency you can dose your tank 5 times the amount once. When you do a PWC you'll want it to be about 25-50% to keep your ammonia and nitrite down.
I really do recommend that you give the fish back and cycle this tank fishless. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/fishless-cycling-for-dummies-103339.html
Considering you have the fish already, and they were a gift, and given that you likely don't know your local pet store's return policy, it might be best to just hold on to the fish and try to keep them safe while cycling the tank.
You are going to need a few things...
1. A liquid reagent test kit to test your water parameters. The most common one is API's Master Freshwater Test Kit. Almost any pet store should carry this, it will cost $20-$30.
2. A thermometer that you can hang in your tank. Any pet store will have them, should cost a couple dollars.
3. A quality dechlorinator like Seachem's "Prime." Small bottle will only cost around $5.
If you can get your hands on those things quickly, then there is information on this website about how to cycle and we can all help you through the process.
You are going to need a few things...
1. A liquid reagent test kit to test your water parameters. The most common one is API's Master Freshwater Test Kit. Almost any pet store should carry this, it will cost $20-$30.
2. A thermometer that you can hang in your tank. Any pet store will have them, should cost a couple dollars.
3. A quality dechlorinator like Seachem's "Prime." Small bottle will only cost around $5.
If you can get your hands on those things quickly, then there is information on this website about how to cycle and we can all help you through the process.
