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Update:

Raising my light is not an option so I have been running only 1 light for a couple of days and clipped some dead pieces. As of today, the plants haven't gotten any worse. I ordered the dry ferts so hopefully that'll help bunches. Until then, I'm still dosing Excel

I have for plants Anubais, crypt, swords, mondo grass, java moss and wisteria. Trying to balance the needs between the low light and med light plants are tricky.

Hopefully, once I'm out of treating with heat and aq. salt for ich, things will reallly take off.
 
The more you learn, the less you know is an apropos cliche for trying to understand the chemistry understanding needed to do a planted aquarium. Well, as it applies to me anyway.

All i want is a moderately healthy planted tank. But i get that life is not what happens on the straightaways as much as it what happens in blind corners. I am trying like mad to figure out how to calculate the amounts needed to dose dry ferts and how often. It's not that I am impatient and want to understand NOW. But i would like to feel somewhat competent so i can start feeling confident, even a little bit. While I appreciate the many knowledgeable people and books, it's all now starting to sound like Charlie brown's teacher (womp, womp, womp)

I didn't know that this dry fert stuff would come in 4 separate bags but then again it makes sense based on individual needs. But still:banghead:
I got kno3, kh2po4, k2so4, csm+b plus i still have flourish and flourish excel plus some root tabs (does CSM=B = flourish?). Is excel just flourish with carbon added? If so, why couldn't seachem been a tad bit more creative with naming? time for me to chg my funky CO2 packet but i'm still getting about a bubble every 3 secs (DIY for now... meh) Been battling ich so i'm using aq. salt and my temp is up now but the ich is going away. Plus i've heard mention of using Epsom salts? OY freaking VAY!

I've looked at numerous calculators and charts, and well, blink, blink. i know my limitations and along with high-level math, chemistry seems to be one of them. I am not trying to come off as lazy or just want someone to give me the answer, I'm just having trouble digesting it all. What the heck is EI, by the way.

Can anyone be my tutor?:thanks::thanks:
 
Ah man, that's a great set of dry ferts you got there!

As for a tutor, I would suggest aqua-chem, if he doesn't mind. I spent my best 3 years at varsity doing Chem 101. As for advise all I can give is from my own hands-on experience.

Seachem Excel is not a fertilizer. Its a carbon source that can be used to replace CO2. You still need to dose ferts.

CSM b is your micro ferts and replace Flourish. You can continue to dose Flourish until its finished.

The rest is your macro ferts. Now that might take some testing to get it right. And that's where dosing and observing comes in to play. To start off you just want NO3 present. 5ppm is a good starting point. Potassium you'll need about 5 times the amount of NO3, so you can make that up to 50ppm. I've read articles where they dosed up to 200 ppm potasium with no negative effect. So I wouldn't worry about overdosing. Phosphates take a bit of feeling to go by. Start off from 1ppm and monitor things to adjust from there. This is where algae identification can play a big role.

In a nutshell, EI dosing is basically overdosing on all nutrients and once a week resetting with a 50% pwc.

I'm by no way an expert. But I've been using dry ferts for a few months with great results. So this is just from my experience with it. Your tank is different from mine and everybody else's so you need to be patient and find the best ratio for your setup.

Hope this helps. You just opened up an awesome part of aquarium keeping!
 
Ah man, that's a great set of dry ferts you got there!

As for a tutor, I would suggest aqua-chem, if he doesn't mind. I spent my best 3 years at varsity doing Chem 101. As for advise all I can give is from my own hands-on experience.

Seachem Excel is not a fertilizer. Its a carbon source that can be used to replace CO2. You still need to dose ferts.

CSM b is your micro ferts and replace Flourish. You can continue to dose Flourish until its finished.

The rest is your macro ferts. Now that might take some testing to get it right. And that's where dosing and observing comes in to play. To start off you just want NO3 present. 5ppm is a good starting point. Potassium you'll need about 5 times the amount of NO3, so you can make that up to 50ppm. I've read articles where they dosed up to 200 ppm potasium with no negative effect. So I wouldn't worry about overdosing. Phosphates take a bit of feeling to go by. Start off from 1ppm and monitor things to adjust from there. This is where algae identification can play a big role.

In a nutshell, EI dosing is basically overdosing on all nutrients and once a week resetting with a 50% pwc.

I'm by no way an expert. But I've been using dry ferts for a few months with great results. So this is just from my experience with it. Your tank is different from mine and everybody else's so you need to be patient and find the best ratio for your setup.

Hope this helps. You just opened up an awesome part of aquarium keeping!

Dunno why you would recommend me when you see to have a pretty good grasp on everything. :cool:

EI is nice because it uses tsp-tbsp amounts rather than grams. I wouldn't even want to figure out the mass of each chemical needed to achieve a certain ppm concentration..... ugh...


EI actually has you dosing about 4x the amount (by volume) of nitrate as potassium. I think that the desired concentrations are 30ppm of both K and nitrate, with phosphate at about 10% of N. HOWEVER, both nitrate and phosphates come in the form of potassium salts, which will help you maintain your K levels. I know some people don't even dose K2SO4 for this reason, but others do. As hinted by Epiphysis, there aren't really much issues inherent with excess potassium*, so there's really not much to lose. I would follow EI to the letter until you start seeing an issue, and then modify from there.

This site has a pretty good outline of EI: James' Planted Tank - Estimative Index Explained

Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate (MgSO4) and is NOT what you want to use vs ich. It can be used to supply Mg, a micro/macro nutrient (some contention on that point). However, I don't use it because my GH is >10, and GH is primarily composed of Mg and Ca, so I should already have >50 ppm present in my tank.


The nice thing about EI, more so than PPS or other methods, is that EXACT concentrations are largely not of concern. I couldn't tell you the K or P (or even N most of the time) content of my tank. Rather, you can judge your tank by levels of "about right," "low phosphate," etc. Is actually fairly non-technical.
 
Hey, thanks to you both for putting that stuff in English for me. Plus with the help of the link Aqua Chem used, the info is a bit clearer now (with the help of a great starting point/foundation)

I'm going to go with the recommended amounts to start with for my tank size (29G) and light levels (just a smidge more than 2wpg) and with me dosing CO2 with Excel until i get a Co2 rig later.

And the ich is gone so i'll be dialing back my temp and aquarium salt usage starting tomorrow. thank you again, both of you!
 
Quick question....i'm dry dosing instead of making a liquid solution, the water is not as clear as it was and doesnt appear to be clearing up. Normal?
 
I got mine dissolved in a bottle of water from which I dose during water changes. never had cloudiness because of the ferts. Maybe leave it for a day and see what happens. If it doesn't clear up just do a water change and use slightly less. Then observe again.
 
I got mine dissolved in a bottle of water from which I dose during water changes. never had cloudiness because of the ferts. Maybe leave it for a day and see what happens. If it doesn't clear up just do a water change and use slightly less. Then observe again.

Yeah, i'm switching to making a small amount of solution and see how that plays out
 
Are you adding phosphate and micros at the same time?
No, i'm alternating between Potassium Nitrate and Monopotassium Phosphate on one day and the trace/micros in the form of Flourish on the next, alternating days.
 
great day in the morning. I just mixed a batch of p04 and kno3 solution with 250ml of water. i'f i'm dosing 10ml of that 3x / week, it'll last me dang near forever (ok, more like 2 months almost). Wow, just like most anything else, once you figure out the big stuff, the other stuff is just alternating between maintenance and putting out small fires
 
Hi guys i really learn a lot from your previous post but now i have some unclear though in my mind i read from some other place that i need to dose csm+b with mgso4 tea spoon from both and mixed in 0,5 l of water i want to ask you because i am new in this can i just mix csm+b and also how to reduce dry kno3 that i bought from pharmacy!

Thanks in advantage!
 
@pdw1731 You basically have it done. Its now just observe and act on what your plants do. There's still a load of information you can find on the net and other forums.

Just one point, don't store your micro ferts and phosphate together. Iron and phosphate binds together and form a presipitate that the plants cant use. Thus removing both elements from your dosing.

@martin nozot. Not 100% sure on your question but I will try to answer. Yes, I suggest to make a pre-mix of the ferts. And you can just add csm+b on its own. As for how to reduce KNO3, I add 50 grams to 0,5ml water. And from that mix I add 10 ml per week. This raise the NO3 level by about 6 ppm. If your NO3 levels are high already just dose less to get a lower level.
 
It depends on what the concentration of your NO3 is, as well as purity, so some math may be required.

As for as MgSO4 ("epsom salt") goes, I would only dose that if you have soft water and/or you tap doesn't have it. Generally speaking, if your water is below 5 GH of softness, you should dose it, and you should also check your local water report to see what the Mg levels in the water are, just in case.
 
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