Ziggy's 40b Planted Journey

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Too many nutrients does not cause algae. Also a green drop checker is not always a fail safe method of Co2. Unless you are deficient in macros then i doubt the algae is related to the overdose from the auto pumps. Why don't you just manually dose the tank for awhile?


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I'm pretty sure there isn't a solid answer to what actually causes algae. I've read so much over the last several weeks about this very topic. CO2, light, flow, nutrients, water parameters all of these things contribute to algae, along with who knows how many other factors. Based on my calculations last night I am at 3.4bps. 25-30ppm (ph drop method of testing) I do have a good bit of flow in the tank and there is minor surface agitation. If I go much higher I could be creating a bigger issue without adding O2 back to the system. I did some research last night and there is a train of thought that you can inject higher amounts of CO2 if you are also agitating/skimming the surface. Higher amounts of dissolved CO2 and O2 will make all inhabitants happy. Then only issue there is one little hiccup could cause a disaster.

Manually dosing the tank would be an ineffective method for me. I simply could not do it on a daily basis because of my schedule. I prefer that the dosing is done at the same time daily and the autodoser will do that (now that my little issue has been corrected) Unless I am completely wrong dosing ferts while the lights are on is pretty much useless. Ferts should be dosed before lights on, correct?
 
While the algae may not be a direct result of the over dose. Safe bet it's a direct result of the imbalance in the tri-fecta, light+co2 +ferts=hooray/awwww:(

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While the algae may not be a direct result of the over dose. Safe bet it's a direct result of the imbalance in the tri-fecta, light+co2 +ferts=hooray/awwww:(

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Agreed. I think there were multiple reasons for the outbreak not to mention the tank is still going through the dreaded 'new tank syndrome'
 
Its really hard to tell with this tank since you don't know PAR and spread. I still believe 25-30 is still to low, if this tank is over 60PAR. BPS is not a great method to say you have too much/too little Co2. How much was your pH drop?

Brookster nailed it though, a full imbalance of the planted tank triangle will almost certainly lead to issues...


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Its really hard to tell with this tank since you don't know PAR and spread. I still believe 25-30 is still to low, if this tank is over 60PAR. BPS is not a great method to say you have too much/too little Co2. How much was your pH drop?

Brookster nailed it though, a full imbalance of the planted tank triangle will almost certainly lead to issues...


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I should know.. been in that Bermuda triangle for 2 years!!

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Its really hard to tell with this tank since you don't know PAR and spread. I still believe 25-30 is still to low, if this tank is over 60PAR. BPS is not a great method to say you have too much/too little Co2. How much was your pH drop?

Brookster nailed it though, a full imbalance of the planted tank triangle will almost certainly lead to issues...


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pH dropped from 7.2 to 6.8 (ish) Im waiting on a new ph probe for the RKE then I can graph it over 24 hours and see exactly what the changes are. Based on the graph and my KH of just over 4 that puts me around 21+ -25ppm. I need to test again and get an idea of changes through out the day. This will be much easier when I have the new probe in the tank.

Unless I'm reading all of these test wrong I'm around the general area I should be with my water. I agree I could increase it to as much as 30 based on these calculations but that doesn't leave much room for error. The only fortunate thing right now is I don't have a lot of fish in the tank. I have about 40 RCS and 2 siamese algae eaters. I'm not in a rush to put more fish in the tank either so maybe now is the time to crank the CO2 and see what happens.
 
A few pics of the tank..not much to report really. I cranked up the CO2.

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Id say 35 ppm is a better "target" for med-high light. I think you could get down to about 6.3 without issues, slowly increase it and keep and eye on the fish. Or lower the amount of PAR


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Id say 35 ppm is a better "target" for med-high light. I think you could get down to about 6.3 without issues, slowly increase it and keep and eye on the fish. Or lower the amount of PAR


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Funny you should mention 6.3 because that is where my pH is about at. I have increased CO2 a good bit and it looks like I am getting closer to the 35ppm. My pH probe will be here early next week and I can start graphing the change over 24 hours. I should be able to get a very accurate reading.
 
So I am considering building a CO2 reactor for my tank. Anyone out there using a reactor? Suggestions comments?

I'm getting tired of all the bubbles in the tank and the fact that I have cranked Co2 cranking right now there are a lot of bubbles in the tank and a sheen of bubbles on the surface. I think the fact that I have so much on the surface I'm wasting Co2. A reactor will probably work better.
 
So I am considering building a CO2 reactor for my tank. Anyone out there using a reactor? Suggestions comments?

I'm getting tired of all the bubbles in the tank and the fact that I have cranked Co2 cranking right now there are a lot of bubbles in the tank and a sheen of bubbles on the surface. I think the fact that I have so much on the surface I'm wasting Co2. A reactor will probably work better.

I do but not diy...purchased the Sera Flora 500 for the 40b & love it!
I still run the cerges reactor on the 20L so I guess I have 1 diy reactor...


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I do but not diy...purchased the Sera Flora 500 for the 40b & love it!
I still run the cerges reactor on the 20L so I guess I have 1 diy reactor...


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Does your reactor have bioballs or something in it for turbulence?
 
I'm using an inline atomiser just before the reactor on the return to tank side of the canister filter..

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