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Old 12-26-2004, 08:07 PM   #1
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uv sterilizer question

After reading alot of pros and cons on this web site about uv sterilizers I have decided to go ahead and order me one. I have a couple of questions first. Which one/size should I get for a 30 gallon fish only with live rock? It seems from what I read that the flow rate is very important. How do I figure out how to get it correct? What else do I need to order besides the uv?
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Old 12-26-2004, 09:12 PM   #2
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Tell us about your setup please. What type of filtration system?

For a 30 gallon I would go with an 8 watt UV. Depending on your setup will determine what else you might need to order. Will it be installed in-line, or hang on?
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Old 12-26-2004, 11:06 PM   #3
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I am using a bio-wheel 330 and two maxi-jet 400's. I have about 30 lbs of live rock. I think I need a hang-on type uv filter. Is using a higher powered uv filter than really needed just wasting money?
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Old 12-27-2004, 03:15 AM   #4
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Check this out...I believe it will answer some, if not all, of your questions.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showqu...q=2&fldAuto=39
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Old 12-27-2004, 08:58 AM   #5
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The Coralife Turbo Twist 8 watt should work great on your tank, and since it comes with a hang-on bracket all you'll need is a MaxiJet 600 powerhead for it and you'll be all set.
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:08 PM   #6
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So is flow rate the amount of water that goes through the uv light in a 24 hour period? I was thinking that flow rate meant how slow or fast the water went through the uv. So let me get this right......I put a maxi-jet in my tank and hook a hose to the end that then goes to the uv, the hose then comes out of the uv and dumps back into the aquarium.
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:29 PM   #7
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I got a Turbo Twist (the smallest one) and am pretty happy with it. The smallest one will treat my largest aquarium, so I use the same one on all my tanks. I hooked mine to a Rio 90, which I put in the tank just below the water line, I have a couple feet of 1/2 vinyl tubing pumping into the T.Twist, and then a short return hose dumping water back into the tank. If you go this route, or even if you pick another sterilizer, learn from my mistake and ORDER IT ONLINE!!!! I paid $189 for a Turbo Twist at my LFS, and then found the exact same thing at Drs. Foster and Smith's website for $79 on sale!!! Oh man I was HOT when I saw that!!!

But like you, I don't understand all that flow rate jazz, so I'm going to go back and read the link someone provided earlier to make sure I'm using mine correctly.

--Aquabear
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:54 PM   #8
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I put a maxi-jet in my tank and hook a hose to the end that then goes to the uv, the hose then comes out of the uv and dumps back into the aquarium.
Correct. That world work.

Regarding flow rates... the key thing to remember is not to exceed the recommended GPH flow rate of the UV. In the case of the 8 watt TT I believe it's 200 GPH so a MaxiJet 600 (160 GPH) would work just right for you.
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Old 12-27-2004, 08:58 PM   #9
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Personally I think they're kind of a waste... especially for the money on a 30 gal..... They definitely can't hurt... and I'm sure they help.... but you can get by without one......
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Old 12-28-2004, 12:10 AM   #10
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Flow rate is the gallons per hour which pass over the UV bulb. Too high of a flow, nothing happens (or very reduced effictiveness). You could have too low, which would literally sterilize your water (but this may be what you want?).

I run a 9W sterilizer on a 1500gal pond. Cleared up green water (which formed despite very low nitrates :-/) in a matter of days.
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:25 AM   #11
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The most obvious question to everyone here is what effect these have on corals, anenomes and most importantly, the bacterial levels in one's aquarium.

The bacteria level degredation is my most concerning matter, otherwise I would install one myself.

Folks I have spoken to recommend running it only for a few hours a day, and certainly not 24 hours a day. I supose regularly adding bacteria suppliments would be worthwhile.

I'm interested in everyone's thoughts on this as I am debating it over and over myself.
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Old 12-28-2004, 02:52 PM   #12
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Folks I have spoken to recommend running it only for a few hours a day, and certainly not 24 hours a day.
I heard kind of the same thing. If you have to run it 24x7, then something is seriously wrong with your water chemistry. I run mine on each tank every couple of weeks or so for a few hours, mostly for water-polishing. The next day, my tanks are usually unbelievably clear (they're clear anyway, but this really makes them amazingly so).

I read the article that was referenced earlier in the thread, and I'm sure there was some good information in it, but I didn't understand it. I know there is some link between the GPH flow rate and the "zap" that the article recommends, but it sounds like some of the calculations are based on much stronger UV units than the Turbo Twist 9. Then, the amount of head pressure the pump/powerhead can generate affects performance also. My Rio 800 pump is rated at 211 gph, with 0" head...add 1' of head pressure and that cuts it to about 150 gph, 2' of head pressure and that cuts it again, etc. The trick is to find a pump that will give you the correct flow rate at the max head that you'll need to reach the sterilizer.

That's the part that I haven't quite figured out yet. But I'm seeing *some* positive results, so I must be close.

--Aquabear
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In order of setup:

FW1-16g, 5 Zebra danios, 4 Pristella Tetras, 4 Black Skirt Tetras, 2 Gold Barbs, 1 Brush-nose Pleco
FW2-5g, 1 Baby Gold Marble Angel (raised from fry), 6 Zebra Danios
SW1-75g, (80# LR), Scarlett hermits, Turbo snails, Percula Clownfish (Gizmo), Oscellaris Clownfish (Whizzer), Indian Yellowtail Angelfish (Mikado), Royal Gramma (Orpheus), Black Sailfin Blenny (Casper), Yellow Tang (Pele), Racoon Butterflyfish (Raptor), Lyretail Anthia (Juliette)
FW3-30g, 2 mated Gold Marble Angels (Oscar/Yenta)
SW2-20g, QT, currently empty
FW4-30g, currently empty
FW5-20g, 2 Gold Angels (non-paired)
SW3-35g (REFUGIUM for SW1) - EVIL ChocChipStar, Nassarius and Turbo snails
SW4-55g, 4 BlueGreen Chromis, King's Crown snail.
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:57 PM   #13
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I have a cyno-bacteria and general green hair algae problem. I only have my lights on for 8 hours a day, and feed every first or second day. Admittingly though, some of the food drifts off into the tank which the fish don't get to so that might have something to do with the algae problem.

My main concern is removing the cyno-bacteria. I am about to order some chemi-clean to see what that does though.

Are there any general places you should install the unit? For instance, before or after the filtration? I feel that it should be before filtration as the good bacteria should be coming out of the filter?
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Old 12-28-2004, 07:51 PM   #14
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I ordered my uv and power head last night. One more question: how far down in the water do I put the powerhead and do I put my return line at the oppisite side of the powerhead?
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Old 12-28-2004, 11:29 PM   #15
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i love my u.v. sterilizer, power compact 9 watt double helix. i have been running this on my 30gal for a year straight, and have had it on my new 75gal oceanic for 2 yrs now. i have not had one diesese since i bought it in 2001. i would put the power head up close to the surface only because you do not want any sand getting into the u.v. the return hose can go any where for more water movment. i put mine next to my intake for my skimmer, this way i'm making a cheaper virsion of a ozonizers.
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Old 12-30-2004, 10:35 AM   #16
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[quote="flanque"]

The bacteria level degredation is my most concerning matter, otherwise I would install one myself.

Folks I have spoken to recommend running it only for a few hours a day, and certainly not 24 hours a day. I supose regularly adding bacteria suppliments would be worthwhile.
quote]

Bacteria grows on LR,LS tank walls. IMO There is very little if any free floating bacteria that would get killed in a UV light.
I ran my 25 watt UV on my 125 24/7 for over a year till it crapped out and my tank was doing great, fish and corals all healthy. I will be getting a new UV in the future, for piece of mind and to help kill free floating algae.

A UV will not kill hair algae or cyno bacteria.. This is caused by excess nutrients.

Lower water flow through a UV is good, too fast and it will do nothing. The time water is spent in the light is dwell time. This is that amount of time needed to kill organisms. So it is important to follow the manufactures advice for flow rate.
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Old 12-31-2004, 11:14 PM   #17
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I installed the uv today. I put the powerhead at one corner of the tank and ran the tubing to the other side. I didn't realize my hose was so far down in the tank because when I pluged in the ph, the force of water coming out the other end blew the sand all over the bottom of the tank!!!
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