Blue green algae. How do I control it?

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steele22

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Feb 26, 2015
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Hi, got a 125l at 26 ° planted with tetra and a couple of rams. Run twin t5s for 7 hours and now have the slime on the front substtate, bit on the glass and its on a few plant leaves. I vaccum every week with 10% water changes and try to wipe it off then. Comes back the same. I'm going to double water changes and maybe get more plants to try to beat it. What else can I do? Its just a bit of a pain but it could get worse I fear. Any tips?

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I used API erythromycin to remove mine. Worked really good and no negative impact that i saw from the med

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I will check it out. Thanks.

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Mardel Maracyn, basically the same thing, worked for me. One treatment over a year ago and it hasn't been back.
 
What are the tank parameters besides stock and lighting?

Do you use co2?
Ferts used and schedule?
What type of plants and number?
What is your nitrate level?

Before buying anti algae meds would recommend doing a good substrate siphon and a 50% PWC and upping your weekly pwc to 20%.



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What are the tank parameters besides stock and lighting?

Do you use co2?
Ferts used and schedule?
What type of plants and number?
What is your nitrate level?

Before buying anti algae meds would recommend doing a good substrate siphon and a 50% PWC and upping your weekly pwc to 20%.



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Good point. I coupled the treatment with better husbandry. I do 50% water changes weekly, which some would consider excessive, but it seems to work for my tank.


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Chemiclean worked wonders for me. Knocked it out and never saw it again.


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You are right to do larger water changes to reduce the nutrients in the water. Also feed less and you can do a blackout for a few days too. It won't hurt your plants and it will help to starve the cyanobacteria.
 
See post #5 in the following link. It reiterates good tank hygiene and describes the use of hydrogen peroxide. The approach addresses the root cause rather than "bombing the tank": Blue green aglae/slime how to get rid of it ??
I've used the antibiotic route with successful in my heavily planted.


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Great link. Have 3 amazon swords and 3 anubus on wood pieces. Just took out about 8 little grass patches out as they attracted the gba a lot. Use 1/2 recomended dose of excel every second day. I put in 6 ferterliser balls in the substrate when i set the tank up 6 months ago. Substrate is 6 inches deep at the back, angled down to an inch on the front. Fine gravel, that is pretty cloudy now that i am syfoning properly. Done about 30 pc water change in last 24hrs. The filter flow is up to the surface to create some surface breaking. Not too much flow through the tank plants. Bio3 in a 125l juwel. Should i put an air stone in at night for a couple of hours? Not sure on nitrate level, but believe it should be ok.

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I recently had a cyano outbreak myself. It looked just like yours does. It was the beautiful cyan blue slimy smelly stuff.



Before deciding on a course of action I did a lot of googling. I also read every cyano thread I could find here.



Before I go further, my water parameters were/are excellent. If anything my nitrate is a little on the low side at 5 ppm. Since cyano can fix its own nitrogen low nitrate will not necessarily keep you from getting it



Personally, I look at erythromycin as overkill. I see it as using a blow torch to light a candle. That said, there is no doubt that it works.



One thing I read repeatedly about cyano is that if you do not cure the underlying cause it will return.



Another thing I read repeatedly is that increasing the O2 levels and circulation in the tank may cure your cyano with no further action.



First, I did what just about everybody does. That is to hand clean and siphon out and as much of the cyano as I could. I then added an air stone. That is something I hadn't had. I have a canister filter so I can't adjust the waterfall or something and I don't have the spray bar. I already had an air pump sitting around so it was just as easy to drop in an air stone.



There was an improvement. However the cyano did come back and that's not unusual. So once again I hand cleaned. I siphoned and netted out any loose pieces I could. I was able to get a lot of it off of my live plants by fanning them with the same credit card that I used to scrape algae off the acrylic tank. It actually will blow right off. I did a 50% water change at the same time just for good measure.



What killed my cyano, and I haven't seen any for several weeks, is to treat the whole tank with a mild dose of hydrogen peroxide 3%. This is the hydrogen peroxide that is available on the shelves of most drug stores.



Testing has proven that this treatment did not affect the beneficial bacteria in the filter and I see no harm to fish or any invertebrates including the pond snails.



In fact, I think with the cyano gone the pond snails are more healthy than ever. They are back to doing a yeomans job on the normal algae.



A dose of less than 2 mL per gallon is considered safe. I dumped this in with the filter running lights on and everything. In my case I have a 29 gallon tank and I used 45 ml. (Please note that this was probably about 1.8 ml per gallon because the tank always holds less water in actuality.)



I read a lot about spot treatments and a little bit about whole tank treatment, and I found the whole tank treatment fast, easy and effective.



One treatment got rid of 90% of the cyano. A second treatment two days later got rid of the rest of it.



The hydrogen peroxide quickly breaks down into oxygen and water. Because I use a safe dosage, I did not do any water changes after treatment.



Anytime you treat a tank with any substance or medication it is important to be careful. People have killed fish using hydrogen peroxide at too high a dose. I don't want to scare anybody, but I also do not want anybody to kill their fish.



When I started this journey I really didn't know it was going to be that easy to get rid of my cyano. The advantage to this treatment is that it is inexpensive, it does not require removing filter media, it does not damage the beneficial bacteria (this was my personal experience but many other accounts confirm this), and it does not hurt the fish and inverts at this level.



I would urge anyone with a freshwater cyano problem to do their own study and reading. The number one thing to remember is that you need to identify and correct the underlying cause. In my case, I think of that boosting the overall oxygen and circulation of the water was the cure to the underlying cause. Then the manual removal and the peroxide treatment was a one two punch that knocked it out.



I hope that my experience is helpful or at least food for thought and/or debate.


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