Help me again!

[nataliedd]

Boo hoo! Another problem and I'mreally trying my best! fish in cycle, going 6 weeks. 340 litres. Water changes 30% twice weekly. Slowly added guppies, tetras, corys over the last few weeks. Nitrite 0, amnonia 0, nitrate 1-2, PH 7.5 . stupidly got 6 rummy nose and added them at weekend, since learned that I was advised wrong in store and these are NOT a beginner fish. (Quite angry) looks like my rummys have ich. Colour has dulled considerably and a few tiny pinprick white spots. What do I do?????

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[nataliedd]

I know colour dulls when fish are stressed, just did a water change earlier, may this have stressed them so much they developed ich?? Not 100% certain it's ich by the way. Just guessing

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[Mattyfelts]

post some pics. if one fish has it, they all tend to ...

 

[nataliedd]

Tried to but as fish move about can't get a clear pic. Out of the 6, 4 seem to be swimming happily with red noses, 1 has disappeared and the other is pail I can just about see him kinda shaking a little (possibly laboured breathing? ) . the pinprick white spots are not really noticeable, just one or two tiny spots on a couple of them.

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[nataliedd]

On my side of the pond it's 12.40am and can't stay awake much longer watching fish so gonna go to bed praying fish ok and I'm just being paranoid! All advice very welcome

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[PB_Smith]

your water is fine for rummynose.
They always go pale when introduced to a new environment. Everyone of mine did, some for a few hours, others for a few days. Also one being a loner at first isn't a big deal, but make sure he still is eating.
Make sure your temps stay constant and bump it up to about 80-82 degrees F, that will help with the ich if there is any. As long as the parameters remain good and the temp constant, fish very often can shake off ich on their own, but keep a close eye on it.
If it disappears then really watch for new infections over the next couple of days.
If nothing shows up on the fish you are probably ok, if it does treat the tank.

 

[fish wrangler]

your water is fine for rummynose.
They always go pale when introduced to a new environment. Everyone of mine did, some for a few hours, others for a few days. Also one being a loner at first isn't a big deal, but make sure he still is eating.
Make sure your temps stay constant and bump it up to about 80-82 degrees F, that will help with the ich if there is any. As long as the parameters remain good and the temp constant, fish very often can shake off ich on their own, but keep a close eye on it.
If it disappears then really watch for new infections over the next couple of days.
If nothing shows up on the fish you are probably ok, if it does treat the tank.

I was reading a post that said a temp if 82 is bad for treating ich. Around 88 was better, 82 provides better temp for ich to reproduce. 88 just kills the ich.

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[BalaGuppieGirl]

Twice weekly maybe too much of a water change too often. Try taking it down to once a week to let chemicals work. Treat your imbalances and let the tank straighten itself out. You will have to remove your filter pads while treating with certain chemicals as the carbon in them can suck your medications out.

 

[trennamw]

Are those water readings just before a water change or after? That'd be the clue on whether you should reduce water changes.




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[nataliedd]

Ok today rummys aren't hiding and colour returned a good bit. No more new spots only the couple I seen last night. I thought the more the water changes the better? Not sure if it's ich or not so don't wanna add medication unless I really need too. If I slowly turn heat up to approx 86 it takes it out of recommended green zone on thermometer? ??

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[enrgizerbunny]

Ok today rummys aren't hiding and colour returned a good bit. No more new spots only the couple I seen last night. I thought the more the water changes the better? Not sure if it's ich or not so don't wanna add medication unless I really need too. If I slowly turn heat up to approx 86 it takes it out of recommended green zone on thermometer? ??

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Yes, the treatment temperature isn't "ideal" for most tropical fish, but it won't hurt them to live in it temporarily, especially if it's helping to rid them of a parasite, just make the change slowly. Increasing the temperature to 82 will only speed up the life cycle of ich, which does make treating with medication faster. Whether you treat with meds or just heat, the principle is the same-to destroy the parasite by stopping its reproductive cycle, either by excessive heat or by medication.

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[nataliedd]

Best option between heat or meds? Or both? What is the highest temp I should go? Even if it's out of my green zone will fish be ok?

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[nataliedd]

Does ich spots appear rapidly on fish or quite slow cos still just the couple spots I seen from last night

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[nataliedd]

Oh and if I'm not sure it's ich should I hold off doing anything til I see another spot or two?

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[Fishanatic]

You can decide to use meds or temperature. Ive always treated mine with increasing daily temperature by 1 or 2 up to 84 or 86. Reduce stress on fish, water change with gravel change. If problem persists, medicate.

 

[enrgizerbunny]

Yes, the fish will be fine with the high temp for treatment. That green zone is just something the manufacturer put on there as a guide.

Here's a great article about ich that will help you better understand the life cycle, as well as the treatment of the parasite:

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/ich-ick-white-spot-or-whatever-else-you-call-it/

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[Cthulhu]

I also got rummy nose 12 days ago, and most of them (if not all) got ich at some point since then. At the LFS they told me it would probably happen, but in their tank they all seemed very healthy. So they probably developed ich from the stress of being moved.

I just didn't do anything special. And now there is only one which still has a few white spots. They didn't look weak at all despite having ich and were eating well. My water temperature is 80.

This is not the first time I have fish who have ich, and the only ones who died from it were already weak before the symptoms appeared. Healthy fish will fight ich, just make sure there is nothing to stress them.

 

[enrgizerbunny]

I also got rummy nose 12 days ago, and most of them (if not all) got ich at some point since then. At the LFS they told me it would probably happen, but in their tank they all seemed very healthy. So they probably developed ich from the stress of being moved.

I just didn't do anything special. And now there is only one which still has a few white spots. They didn't look weak at all despite having ich and were eating well. My water temperature is 80.

This is not the first time I have fish who have ich, and the only ones who died from it were already weak before the symptoms appeared. Healthy fish will fight ich, just make sure there is nothing to stress them.

If it went away and doesn't come back is probably not ich, simply because the nature of it being a parasite and not a disease. Healthy fish won't succumb to ich, but they can certainly get it, and without treatment it will return.

Saying "healthy fish will fight off ich" is soon to saying "healthy humans will fight off leeches." We don't fight leeches, but they drop off eventually and don't kill us most the time.

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[Mebbid]

If it went away and doesn't come back is probably not ich, simply because the nature of it being a parasite and not a disease. Healthy fish won't succumb to ich, but they can certainly get it, and without treatment it will return.

Saying "healthy fish will fight off ich" is soon to saying "healthy humans will fight off leeches." We don't fight leeches, but they drop off eventually and don't kill us most the time.

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Healthy fish can fight off ich, but if they successfully do, it will remain a low level of infection just waiting for a fish to become stressed so it can quickly reach plague proportions.

That being said, relying on fish immune system to fix the problem is a bad idea.

The increased temperature isn't gonna hurt them so go ahead and treat. The worst it will do is raise your electric bill by a few dollars.

 

[PerfectDepth]

+1 for heat treatment at around 85 F for two weeks. Also, warmer water holds less oxygen, so add more surface agitation to keep the water oxygenated while doing a heat treatment.