Making r/o water "hard"

[shawmutt]

I just started using r/o water for my african tank, and I bought a bottle of instant 8.2 additive to make my water hard. I put in the prescribed amount, tested it with the high range pH tester, and the result was purple! Purple isn't even on the chart (it ranges from tan to dark brown). Upon closer inspection of the bottle, it said on the label that I need to add cichlid salts before adding the instant 8.2 (which kind of defeats the purpose of buying the instant 8.2). I have electroright, that I use for my amazon tank, but the bottle only has instructions to make r/o water have 5.8 pH or 7.0 pH. Should I add the electroright until I have a sufficient pH? My father-in-law told me to add salt (sodium chloride), but I have read elsewhere to not add salt in a cichlid tank.

What is the best additive for the r/o water I put in my tank?

 

[shawmutt]

Furthermore, there seem to be two very different opinions on water hardness in the African Lakes. One set say that the water is extremely hard, with a GH of 20+ degrees, another set say the water is extremely soft, with a GH of 4-6 degrees. Both say the kH, or alkalinity is high at 6-8 degrees. Anyone live near or visiting Lake Malawi sometime soon? I'll pay for water samples! If the GH is really low, adding salts will not be good for the tank, since that will increase the GH. But then what would be the most appropriate buffer for my water changes? Baking soda was recommended by a few sites, but only as a temporary fix. Confused yet? I know I am!

 

[shawmutt]

BTW, the stuff is called Proper pH 8.2, not instant pH.

 

[TankGirl]

Have you tried using crushed coral in the filter? I can't remember if you decided to try this or not. I know what you mean about the different opinions in the different articles. I am setting up a Lake Tan tank so I am searching the same as you are. You have probably seen this one, but this is a link to the home made lake cichlid buffer recipe that many aquarists use (most of the veteran African keepers that I run into on various boards go this route) and I would definitely suggest doing it that way. What they do is forego the Python fill method and keep treated water in 5-gal jugs for their water changes. A pain, but in your case with your water I think it will be necessary.
http://cichlid-forum.com/articles/buffer_recipe.php

Let me know if you have pondered and rejected this, and I will gear up for plan B (or C, or D!) because this is exactly where I am in my plans as well! BTW, how are the fish doing through all of this?

 

[Allivymar]

Isn't Propa Ph some sort of face cleanser for zits?

*runs off giggling*

 

[shawmutt]

Have you tried using crushed coral in the filter? I can't remember if you decided to try this or not.

I'm still getting used to my canister filter, I will most likely throw a media bag with crushed coral in there soon. I have argonite sand and limestone in the tank. My main concern right now is the r/o water. I don't want to affect the carbonate hardness.

You have probably seen this one, but this is a link to the home made lake cichlid buffer recipe that many aquarists use (most of the veteran African keepers that I run into on various boards go this route) and I would definitely suggest doing it that way.

I bookmarked that page, thanks! But, this begs the arguement...does this mean that the "high GH" camp is right? If I put that salt in it will bring the GH up to 32 dgH! I'm trying to research the stuff, but I'm getting into the scientific stuff and it is slow reading at best. It seems the more technical a subject gets the more websites get their facts different.

BTW, how are the fish doing through all of this?

They are fine, thanks for asking. Any changes I do on the tank are done slowly and with them first and foremost in mind. I'm doing more research and studying right now than acting.

Isn't Propa Ph some sort of face cleanser for zits?

*runs off giggling*

alli you're a trip!

 

[shawmutt]

Alright, alright...I know, you all are like "Shawmutt, shut the :censor: up about the gh already, alright?!?!" But I'm obsessing about it. I can't let it go. Someone please help me!!!OK, *deep breath* I'm alright. I have spent all weekend trying to find my answer, and only getting more confused. Here's some links to see what I mean and to further confuse the issue:

Some people say low gh

Lake Malawi's pH ranges from 7.8 to 8.6, with a total hardness of 4.0-6.0 dH...Carbonate hardness ranges from 6.0 to 8.0

from http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/lakes_east_africa.php

Total hardness 4.0 to 6.0 dH
Carbonate hardness 6.0 to 8.0

from http://badmanstropicalfish.com/afcichlids.html

Lake Malawi's pH ranges from 7.8 to 8.6, with a total hardness of 4.0-6.0 dH. Surface temperature ranges from 24C to 29C, while the temperature at lower levels of the lake is 21C. Carbonate hardness ranges from 6.0 to 8.0.

from http://www.wetpetz.com/riftlake.html

The lake is a very unique body of water. It is not salty, yet has a general high pH (7.5-8.8 ), general hardness of 4-6 dGH and a carbonate hardness of 6-8 dKH. Therefore, this body of water has soft to moderate hardness but high pH values.

from http://www.malawimayhem.com/articles_malawi.shtml

and some people say high gh:

Try to achieve a GH between 15 and 25 dgh.

from the same site as the first site in the low pH camp http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/buffer_recipe.php

Both lakes have unusual water chemistry, the water being particularly hard and alkaline. In the case of Lake Malawi the pH is usually between 7.7 and 8.6, with hardness up to about 22ºdH.

from http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com/Fishes_Catalogue/lake_malawi_cichlids.htm

WATER: 7.5-8.8 (8.2), 10-25 dH (18 ), 75-82¡F (24-28¡C)

from http://www.mongabay.com/fish/other_lake_malawi_cichlids.htm

This, again, is an unusual feature of the African Rift Lakes, in that the water is extremely hard and very alkaline. Hardness values of 20°dH plus, together with a pH value of between 7.6 and 8.6 would be ideal.

from http://freespace.virgin.net/m.pickering/Malawi.htm

this is what people have to say about additives:

don't add:

Lake Malawi is not a salt water lake so adding table salt or sea salt the aquarium water will do little to make the environment more comfortable for the mbuna.

from http://aquascienceresearch.com/APInfo/MBuna.htm

Much of the literature available on Rift Lake Cichlids advocates the use of salt - Sodium Chloride (NaCl) to increase the hardness and pH. I would not agree with this advice, on the grounds that chlorides do not exist in the Lake's chemical make-up. Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO³) is another chemical often used to raise the pH in a Malawi tank. While I would accept a short-term rise in pH would take place, "Bicarb" has no lasting buffering effect.

from http://freespace.virgin.net/m.pickering/Malawi.htm (the same site with the high gh)

and then there's the sites that say to add...you get the idea. I won't EVEN go into pH levels!!! I'm trying to be a good fish owner, trying to do my research, but this is getting ridiculous. If anyone has an authoritative answer they will have the benefit of knowing they saved me a lot of money, because I am ready to buy a plane ticket and fly there!

I'm going nuckin futs!!! The worst part is that I all the quotes I got here are from the top eight responses for the google search "Lake Malawi hardness." Can anyone help me?