Ph Problems

[mollybabies]

Question: I have a 55 gallon planted freshwater tank with driftwood and a mixture of regular gravel and API First Layer® Pure Laterite™ Aquarium Planting Medium. I also have ph issues. Water from my tap is 7.8+ moments after a substantial water change (at least 1/3 of the water) the ph reads 6.2 but could be lower since that is the bottom of my testing range. I did some research and bought CaribSe...a Aragonite Shell substrate to add as a buffer so my ph would regulate at a higher level. I added about an inch of substrate. I was hoping that it would balance out the driftwood and Laterite. However my ph is now 7.8+ in the aquarium. So instead of balancing it has completely cancelled out the driftwood. Luckily none of my fish have died due to such a severe fluctuation. I understand that as long as the fish adapt I probably shouldnt mess to much the the ph however it makes adding new fish a problem. I would really like my ph to be at least readable of my test kit. What should I do? I like the idea of natural solutions so I was thinking about adding a filter bag full of peat moss to my filter.

 

[fort384]

Unfortunately, it sounds like you are bouncing back and forth between high and low. I don't think I would add peat, at least not yet. Can you remove some or most of the argonite, or has it all mixed in with the other substrate mediums now?

Most common FW species can thrive in a wide range of pH's, so long as the pH is stable. Rapid fluctuations can cause osmotic shock, which is something you obviously want to avoid.

 

[Cichlid Kid]

Your T.D.S level should have risen substantially apon adding the argonite or crushed shells and as a result your ph is higher. In time the T.D.S. levels will drop along with your ph. It should balance out for you naturally. I agree with the last post. I wouldn't add peat. Most tropical fish could adapt to a ph of 7.8 and the decrease that should occur naturally will be gradual and not affect them.

 

[jetajockey]

I agree with the advice given. Rather than adding to lower the pH (which is very difficult when the tank has a high gh/kh, btw), I'd just get some of the aragonite out.

 

[BBradbury]

Your Tank Water Chemistry

Question: I have a 55 gallon planted freshwater tank with driftwood and a mixture of regular gravel and API First Layer® Pure Laterite™ Aquarium Planting Medium. I also have ph issues. Water from my tap is 7.8+ moments after a substantial water change (at least 1/3 of the water) the ph reads 6.2 but could be lower since that is the bottom of my testing range. I did some research and bought CaribSe...a Aragonite Shell substrate to add as a buffer so my ph would regulate at a higher level. I added about an inch of substrate. I was hoping that it would balance out the driftwood and Laterite. However my ph is now 7.8+ in the aquarium. So instead of balancing it has completely cancelled out the driftwood. Luckily none of my fish have died due to such a severe fluctuation. I understand that as long as the fish adapt I probably shouldnt mess to much the the ph however it makes adding new fish a problem. I would really like my ph to be at least readable of my test kit. What should I do? I like the idea of natural solutions so I was thinking about adding a filter bag full of peat moss to my filter.

Hello m...

I think the less you mess with the tank water the better. Most aquarium fish will adapt to most of the public water supplies and a pretty constant pH of between 6 and 8 is very tolerable.

It's been my experience that experimenting with the tank chemistry can create more problems, because we can't maintain a specific chemistry. I'd do large, frequent water changes of 50 percent of the tank volume every week, that's your part in keeping stable water properties and let the fish and plants do what they've done forever, and that's adapt.

B

 

[mollybabies]

Thanks everyone! I will just let it be then. I'd rather not remove any of the aragonite at this point to avoid any more rapid ph change. If it will neuralize over time that would be agreeable. Would it cause issues if I atempted to lower my tap water ph before adding it to the tank? My main concern lies in the fact that I lose almost 50% of new fish I add. I slowly get them accustomed to the temp and water but to no avail. I feel i would be more successful if my water was closer to neutral like my LFS. The only other thing I could do is purchase my water for changes from the store and I'd rather not do that.

 

[fort384]

How are you acclimating? If you haven't tried it, try doing a drip acclimation over a couple of hours. I wouldn't add too much more to your tank at this point though.

I would not attempt to lower your tap water pH before adding to the tank. That will still cause pH swings, and eventually it will cause a total crash of pH if you do that several times over the course of 6 months to a year.

 

[mollybabies]

Thanks. I will try the drip acclamation. I've done it once but it didn't work. I still lost the fish but I'll try it again. I only have about 25 in of fish in my 55 gal so there is a lot of empty swimming space. I'm only looking into adding some more zebra danios, dwarf guariamis, and maybe some rummy nose tetras if there's space. That would pretty much finish the tank.

 

[jrodqualls]

You could juss add about three teaspoons of baking soda to the water to keep it at a neutral ph. My local pet store owner told me about this an it works great. Its also a very cheap solution as to goin an buyin up exspensive solutions. Add three teaspoons then in about three or four days add another dosage.

 

[fort384]

I wouldn't recommend this.

 

[jrodqualls]

Well I recommend it because it works an never has givin anyone problems that I know. There are several solutions to ph control mine juss happens to be a quick easy an inexspensive way of fixin the problem.

 

[fort384]

Adding sodium bicarbonate will work for a time. Long term, it is not a good solution. There is only so much buffering capacity that can be added to the water. If it isn't carefully managed long term it could easily result in a quick and massive pH shift. Believe me this is not some big secret... If it was a viable solution for maintaining stable pH over the long run we would recommend it.

Tampering with the natural pH of tap water generally doesn't end well. Talk to folks who have kept tanks for years, not months, and pretty much all of them will convey the same point I am making.

 

[jrodqualls]

Yea I can underatand that but I've had my 37 gallon for almost three years an its all good so far but my ph only really got disturbed when I made my first piece of diy driftwood. Here's a pic of it please let me know what ya think lol

 

[mollybabies]

No, I am going to leave the chemistry alone at this point. Hopefully it will nuetralize slowly on its own as Cichlid Kid stated. If not, I'll just keep doing the drip acculmation. In any case I feel a ph of 7.8 is still probably better then 6 or lower.