tank question

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Hi I have a 33 gallon tropical tank and it's been set up and running for 3 days now, would it be ok to add some fish at this point
 
Lespauldaz said:
Hi I have a 33 gallon tropical tank and it's been set up and running for 3 days now, would it be ok to add some fish at this point

Please read the guide linked in my siganture. It will explain what you need. Any questions please ask. But start your own thread. Welcome to AA.
 
Lespauldaz said:
Hi I have a 33 gallon tropical tank and it's been set up and running for 3 days now, would it be ok to add some fish at this point

Short answer is absolutely no.
 
Short answer is absolutely no.

I am sorry my answer was so short. I have no idea why I was up that early. My answer was my opinion. You could add fish if you want to do that, BUT here is why I think it's not a good idea.

1) Your tank has not had time to establish a nitrogen cycle. It is one of the 3 forms of filtration your tank could use, and in my opinion again, the most important. Your fish generate waste, just like any other animal. The food you give them that isnt eaten also gives off waste. This waste breaks down or decomposes, leaving behind ammonia. The same stuff that is in windex, or any other cleaning solution. If that ammonia doesnt have something to break it down, then your fish would be swimming in a pool of windex. Fortunantly nature has a plan for this issue. There are beneficial bacteria that break this ammonia down and make it less harmful for fish. I wont go into the scientific names of these bacteria, because I cant spell them...haha. But what the naturally occuring bacteria that is everywhere, eats the ammonia, leaving behind nitrItes, another type of bacteria eats the nitrItes, and leaves behind nitrAtes. The nitrates are then siphoned off your tank when you do partial water changes, or if your tank is heavily planted with live plants, consumed by them.

2. This is going to occur, with fish in your tank. You would have to keep the ammonia below .25, nitrItes below .25, and nitrates below 40. That means constant testing and humping buckets for water changes. The ammonia, nitrates and if high enough nitrates can kill your fish and or make them suffer needlessly.

With fishless cycling all this drama can be avoided. Thats why Eco wrote the guide from research and extensive reading that we did together.

The decision is yours and I will not judge you either way. Fishless is easier, and less harmful and that is my opinion

TIPS:
1. Get an API master test kit. You shouldnt pay more than 30 bucks on the high end. It is much more accurate than the strips, by general consensus.

2. Think real hard and if your budget allows, get a water changer, Python or Aqueon. It will save your back from the bucket toting. You will also be more apt to do water changes more often

3. Find Seachem Prime and use that for your water conditioner. There are many articles on here as to why most of us think this is the best product available. I fought it, and realized it truly is the best.

4. Find a friend with some old filter media, gravel or even the octopus decoration (I have one of those for my kids in my tank). This will speed up your cycle. BUT PLEASE stay away from the instant cycling products. They cause, in my EXPERIENCE, drama. I think it makes your cycle unstable and can cause cycle crashes.

I hope this and Eco's article helps you make your decision. Ask all the questions you want. Welcome again!

Wayne The Deckape
 
Last edited:
I am sorry my answer was so short. I have no idea why I was up that early. My answer was my opinion. You could add fish if you want to do that, BUT here is why I think it's not a good idea.

1) Your tank has not had time to establish a nitrogen cycle. It is one of the 3 forms of filtration your tank could use, and in my opinion again, the most important. Your fish generate waste, just like any other animal. The food you give them that isnt eaten also gives off waste. This waste breaks down or decomposes, leaving behind ammonia. The same stuff that is in windex, or any other cleaning solution. If that ammonia doesnt have something to break it down, then your fish would be swimming in a pool of windex. Fortunantly nature has a plan for this issue. There are beneficial bacteria that break this ammonia down and make it less harmful for fish. I wont go into the scientific names of these bacteria, because I cant spell them...haha. But what the naturally occuring bacteria that is everywhere, eats the ammonia, leaving behind nitrItes, another type of bacteria eats the nitrItes, and leaves behind nitrAtes. The nitrates are then siphoned off your tank when you do partial water changes, or if your tank is heavily planted with live plants, consumed by them.

2. This is going to occur, with fish in your tank. You would have to keep the ammonia below .25, nitrItes below .25, and nitrates below 40. That means constant testing and humping buckets for water changes. The ammonia, nitrates and if high enough nitrates can kill your fish and or make them suffer needlessly.

With fishless cycling all this drama can be avoided. Thats why Eco wrote the guide from research and extensive reading that we did together.

The decision is yours and I will not judge you either way. Fishless is easier, and less harmful and that is my opinion

TIPS:
1. Get an API master test kit. You shouldnt pay more than 30 bucks on the high end. It is much more accurate than the strips, by general consensus.

2. Think real hard and if your budget allows, get a water changer, Python or Aqueon. It will save your back from the bucket toting. You will also be more apt to do water changes more often

3. Find Seachem Prime and use that for your water conditioner. There are many articles on here as to why most of us think this is the best product available. I fought it, and realized it truly is the best.

4. Find a friend with some old filter media, gravel or even the octopus decoration (I have one of those for my kids in my tank). This will speed up your cycle. BUT PLEASE stay away from the instant cycling products. They cause, in my EXPERIENCE, drama. I think it makes your cycle unstable and can cause cycle crashes.

I hope this and Eco's article helps you make your decision. Ask all the questions you want. Welcome again!

Wayne The Deckape

So if i get 2 orandas and leave em in there dor about 6 months it would be ok until i switch to a bigger tank
 
My advice is no, you'd need a 30 gallon. 20 gallons for the first and 10 for the other. The issue is that goldfish from what I've been told ( I personally don't have any) is they are pooping machines and make quite a mess. Therefore their beautiful fins are prone to fungal infections. They are their own worst enemy.
 
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