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Old 03-04-2012, 03:21 PM   #61
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Do you have a check valve or a hole drilled into the return right below the tank's water line? Just checking......

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180g- Mostly BIG fish and some coral. ~80g Nuvo- My coral tank with "happy fish"~ 90g- FOWLR Not the not happy type of fish~ 125g- Freshwater Malawi Cichlids ~10g- Nuvo- The refugees from the Ich of '18
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:36 PM   #62
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No. I couldn't find a check Valve at menards or HD to fit 3/4 or 1" so I am just going to drill two holes in the return. What size should the holes be? I figured I would wait until I fill the overflow up though so that I understand where the water line is going to be exactly.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:51 PM   #63
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Actually upon inspection, it appears there is already a hole drilled in the 90 at the top of the return... Seems like that hole is going to be above the water line... Hope that isn't a problem.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:57 PM   #64
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Nope, thats how my 90g is setup too. Just wanted to make sure, it;s one of those little things you can forget until an accident happens.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:20 PM   #65
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Cool, thanks Carey.

I just ordered a 10 gal ATO reservoir on ebay that will fit perfectly behind my tower speaker and be out of the way, but should be easy to fill from my RO system. I hope I am about done spending money (on parts and equipment anyway).
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:25 PM   #66
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I would still drill another hole or two right under the surface to be safe.
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Old 03-04-2012, 05:39 PM   #67
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Alright, when I turned on the fuge light and closed the front door, I realized the glass though tinted, can be seen through. I do not want my "Awesome" work on the sump to be visible when the fuge light is on, so I just went and picked up some spray paint. I am spray painting the back of the panel. First coat applied. Hopefully it looks ok when I am done.

I also picked up some hose clamps to go on the bulkheads on the bottom of the tank for some extra insurance there. They seem much, much tighter now.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:22 PM   #68
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Hose clamps were a very good idea. Would not want that coming off while you're at work. Awesome looking tank. Sad news is that you are never done spending money on a reef tank. There's alwasy something new, or something you forgot you bought last year and when you go put away the new ones you just got, find the old ones... Though you can never have too MJ1200's hanging around LOL.

When you filling that tank. I have a really nice yello Fiji leather I'm getting rid of soon. You and Jon can bid on it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:32 PM   #69
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Awesome Cmor! I am in

Most of the rest of the equipment will be here tomorrow and tuesday, including the AI SOLs, heaters, salt mix, ATO reservoir,and vortechs. But... I am still waiting on my rock and sand to ship. It is looking more and more like I won't get it until next week at the earliest. I figured I would wait to add sand and rock before water. It is going to kill me though, the wait
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:43 PM   #70
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You want to get your rinsed sand down after placing your base rock on the bottom glass (or frame). Fill part way and add the salt water about halfway. Now add the rest of the base rock and LR. When you're done with the aquascaping (first pass anyway), complete filling with salt water. Now the fun begins. What do you do while the tank is cycling.

If you must see something in the tank, get an infants rubber duckie to float in the tank. LOL
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:34 PM   #71
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I have seen a lot of talk about putting stuff like egg crate down before placing the base rock. Am I ok to just go ahead and place the rock directly on the glass? I would prefer that route if I can get away with it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:39 PM   #72
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I didn't put eggcrate under mine. Just as long as everything is secure and against the glass, you'll be fine. Some people like to epoxy their rock together... I did on some of mine, but ended up breaking it apart after figuring out that the more I went, the more I liked different scapes and the ability to change it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:43 PM   #73
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Yeah, I am hoping I don't have to epoxy anything. Does the reefrocks.net stuff lock together pretty well I take it?
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:44 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fort384
Yeah, I am hoping I don't have to epoxy anything. Does the reefrocks.net stuff lock together pretty well I take it?
Yes it does. There are soo many holes on the rock that it can be placed in so many positions.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:43 PM   #75
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Good to know, thanks.

I am getting my anchor points marked out for my AI Sols. No that is not an ancient voodoo stick or a festivus pole... I am just using a shower rod to mark the exact center of my tank on the ceiling. Also it is good to know DVDs are still good for something...

Anyone have opinions on the proper mounting height for my tank? I was just going to go at 10 to 12 inches above the water line unless I hear differently. I will have 2 units, each spaced about 12" from each side of the tank. What height do you suppose will give me coverage at depth?
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:01 PM   #76
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My LEDs are mounted in my canopy are sitting about 5 inches above the water line. Other's mount theirs 10" - 12" above the water line. That gives you room to work in the tank if you don't have a way to raise/lower your lights.

My rock is on the glass. Been there for 9 years now. Some people make pvc platforms, some put egg-crate under them. Egg crate is probably a bad idea cause it could cause dead spots with no water movement under the rock.

Have the fun of aquascaping is placing the rock so that it just rests on the rock(s) below and makes a solid wall with caves. There are so many areas in my rockwork that I would not see my mandarin for months at times. Found out when I was working from home one day that he did come around the front of the tank in the afternoon for a bit. But at lights out or company over, half the fish hide in the rockwork ad wont come out till the room settles down. On the other hand, when I get home from work they follow me begging for food... LOL.

Now get that rock in and placed and start filling that tank. Oh, do you want me to send you the rubber duckie I used while waiting for my uncured LR to cycle my tank?
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:02 PM   #77
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Ok, vortechs, heater, aqualifters, and salt are here.

Vortechs look sweet. Too bad it will be a bit before I get to see them in action.

Lights should be here today... waiting PATIENTLY

I am off to read about salt mixing and how that works. Anyone have a recommended SG for what I am planning? 1.025?
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:53 PM   #78
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.025 or .026will work. Also just mix for a long time. I e heard 6 hours if using a powerhead or pump to mix and twelve hours if you just use a manual stir here and there. Mine sits for 24 hour minimum just to be sure and i use a 750 koralia to mix
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:46 PM   #79
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I agree..natural SW is 1.024-1.026 so in that range you are good to go.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:33 PM   #80
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Most of us mix to 1.025 and mix it overnight, if not for 24 hours. You can just mix it in the tank for the first time.
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