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porksauce

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
12
Location
CA
I got a 7 gallon about 3 weeks ago. I waited 2 weeks to get a Betta (Petco recommended this). They said I should start with this one and wait till my cycling was complete till I got any other fish. I had a nitrite spike that ended a few days ago. At the same time that it ended I noticed some brown and green algae showed up. I thought that my cycle was complete, but although my nitrites have gone from 5 to 0, my nitrates are not going up. I brought a sample of my water to Petco to have them test it before getting anymore fish. They said I was good. My ammonia has been steady at .25 since I started testing about 12 days ago. My nitrates have never really gone up, but I thought that was due to my plants. Thinking my cycling was complete I bought 3 Cory Cats to complete my tank. I change 25 percent every week and test every 2 days. So I have a few questions. First, if my cycling is not complete, do I just wait for the nitrates to rise to know for sure? Also, will my fish be ok? And finaly, the brown algae on my plants, will it hurt them? The algae came on fast but it is not to bad and has not gotten worse in the last few days.

PH 8.4, A .25, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0
 

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Hello and welcome to AA you want your ammonia/ nitrites to read 0 and nitrates between 10-20ppm watch your levels closely like everyday your not done yet since you have fish in already it may take longer
 
Will do.
So if the Ammonia increases should I just do 25 percent water changes to bring it back down?

Thanks for your help.
 
Test your tap water for ammonia first; if the nitrite phase happened then usually ammonia should be at 0 as well. Also what test kit are you using? Strips aren't very accurate. If you're using the API Liquid test, sometimes it can be hard to distinguish between 0 and .25 on the test; to be sure, you can test some distilled or spring water and compare it to the tank test and see if they match. Also for the nitrate test you want to shake and bang both bottles for 30 seconds then the tube for a full minute and wait 5 minutes for the results; the results can be inaccurate if not done correctly.

Also you have gravel....is it sharp? Corys have barbels that are sensitive and can get injured on sharp gravels. Also what kind of Corsy? A 7 gal isn't very large; most corys are active and some can grow to a decent size so a 7 gal might be a bit limiting for them.

The brown algae is probably diatoms which is normal in new tanks; it should go away on its own eventually. You can wipe it off in the meantime. How long are your lights on each day?
 
librarygirl said:
Test your tap water for ammonia first; if the nitrite phase happened then usually ammonia should be at 0 as well. Also what test kit are you using? Strips aren't very accurate. If you're using the API Liquid test, sometimes it can be hard to distinguish between 0 and .25 on the test; to be sure, you can test some distilled or spring water and compare it to the tank test and see if they match. Also for the nitrate test you want to shake and bang both bottles for 30 seconds then the tube for a full minute and wait 5 minutes for the results; the results can be inaccurate if not done correctly.

Also you have gravel....is it sharp? Corys have barbels that are sensitive and can get injured on sharp gravels. Also what kind of Corsy? A 7 gal isn't very large; most corys are active and some can grow to a decent size so a 7 gal might be a bit limiting for them.

The brown algae is probably diatoms which is normal in new tanks; it should go away on its own eventually. You can wipe it off in the meantime. How long are your lights on each day?

+1 ^ to above
 
Test your tap water for ammonia first; if the nitrite phase happened then usually ammonia should be at 0 as well. Also what test kit are you using? Strips aren't very accurate. If you're using the API Liquid test, sometimes it can be hard to distinguish between 0 and .25 on the test; to be sure, you can test some distilled or spring water and compare it to the tank test and see if they match. Also for the nitrate test you want to shake and bang both bottles for 30 seconds then the tube for a full minute and wait 5 minutes for the results; the results can be inaccurate if not done correctly.

Also you have gravel....is it sharp? Corys have barbels that are sensitive and can get injured on sharp gravels. Also what kind of Corsy? A 7 gal isn't very large; most corys are active and some can grow to a decent size so a 7 gal might be a bit limiting for them.

The brown algae is probably diatoms which is normal in new tanks; it should go away on its own eventually. You can wipe it off in the meantime. How long are your lights on each day?

I am using API test. The ammonia has been at that exact level every time I have done the test. I will try the tap water and shaking more tonight when I test again.
The gravel does not look sharp to me, but I took a picture. Let me know what you think. I believe its a Peppered Cory? Said they get to be 2 inches. If they get to big I am fine with getting a larger tank down the road.
I have my lights on a timer for 12 hours a day.
Thanks for the help. I will post my test results tonight.
 

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I tested all the levels today. They all are the same. The ammonia on further study might be in between 0 and .25, but it does seem to have a very slight green tint to it. However my tap water looks to be .50. I did not know tap water had ammonia in it, is that normal? The Nitrate might have a slight orange tint but is closer to yellow then the next level.

PH 8.4
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Ammonia somewhere between 0 and .25
 
What water conditioner are you using alot of people here use prime i havent been able to get it myself yet i believe it helps with ammonia in tap water along with the chlorine i could be wrong about the ammonia part somebodystops could chime in and correct me
 
I've never used prime myself but a lot of members here recommend it, and yes you are correct on it neutralizing ammonia and nitrate in tap water. That's why it's so highly recommended here, that and it only take 3 drops
per gallon I believe (if I remember what other members have said about it correctly), so even though it's more expensive than other dechlorinators it lasts longer.
 
I will check it out.

So even though my tap water has ammonia, won't the tank eventually be able to process it? It must at least be processing it enough now to drop that number in half when I add it to the tank?
 
porksauce said:
I will check it out.

So even though my tap water has ammonia, won't the tank eventually be able to process it? It must at least be processing it enough now to drop that number in half when I add it to the tank?

Yes it will once your BB builds up, but until then it won't fully be able too get rid of it all just yet.
 
Great! Thanks for your help. I'll see if I can pick some up.
 
Hey, I currently have had a established tank for 3 weeks, added guppies to it 2days ago, all seemed well but I lost 1 today, my filter is a fluval u3 and constantly have to have it on the oxygen setting. Why is this? Also I have white cotton looking stuff on my gravel any clue on what it is and how to get rid of it?
 
kmiddler said:
Hey, I currently have had a established tank for 3 weeks, added guppies to it 2days ago, all seemed well but I lost 1 today, my filter is a fluval u3 and constantly have to have it on the oxygen setting. Why is this? Also I have white cotton looking stuff on my gravel any clue on what it is and how to get rid of it?

Have you tested your water since it finished cycling?
 
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