New tank running into problems

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Aburmeister

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Nov 28, 2020
Messages
12
Location
WI
Ok so here's the back story, ill make it quick [emoji6]
I had a 10 gal tank with 4 glo tetras in it, I thought they looked crowded and had the brite idea to get a new tank and put it in our living room, its fish how hard can this be[emoji52][emoji52]

I bought a 38gal tank set it up. Transfered the glofish and the contents of the tank including there water over to the new tank waited a few days and decided to get more fish, bad idea, I'm pretty sure after much research I over stocked my tank, I new nothing of checking the water for nitrites, ammonia, or nitrates along with all the other stuff.

A week after I added new fish I noticed all of my fish had white spots on them ALL OVER THEM...3 of the new fish I purchased had died and the others looked very sad.

So now I have a new tank still going through its cycle and infected with ich. I bought an API master kit water levels were TERRIBLE!

PH= 7.6
HPH= 8.2
NITRITES= 5.0ppm
AMMONIA=.50ppm
NITRATES=80ppm to 160ppm color was to close to tell.

I bought and ammonia neutralizer that wouldn't effect the cycle and did a 25% water change.

Tested again today..
NITRITES=1.0ppm
AMMONIA=0
NITRATES=80ppm to 160ppm

Not sure where to go from here.

I have the heat up to 86° for the ich its been at that temperature for 4 days fish loo 100% better.

So my question is, how do I lower my nitrates?

Should I add more neutralizer to get the nitrites down?

Thank you in advance, any help is appreciated.20201128_121059.jpg20201128_121437.jpeg20201128_121030.jpeg20201128_121204.jpg20201128_121739.jpeg
 
Where is the filter for the old tank? Did you move that over to the new tank also? That is where your beneficial bacteria is. There is none in the water transfer so that was a moot point. What was the old tank parameters before all this started? Nitrates are lowered via water changes and live plants. Always post your pH with your other parameters. With a higher pH, your ammonia and nitrite are more of a concern than nitrate.
 
No I didn't

The filter was for a 10 gallon tank so no I didn't transfer it over, from research good bacteria also lives in the gravel. I don't know the old parameters, I didn't know anything about testing water until now. My PH is high according to the test strips its around 9 I did do a water change and the nitrates are still high.
 
The filter was for a 10 gallon tank so no I didn't transfer it over, from research good bacteria also lives in the gravel. I don't know the old parameters, I didn't know anything about testing water until now. My PH is high according to the test strips its around 9 I did do a water change and the nitrates are still high.
Some bacteria lives in the gravel. Since aerobic bacteria need 2 things, media that is very porous and fast water movement THROUGH that media, not around or on top. Gravel does not quite fit that bill. That's why under gravel filters are so good because the water passed through all the gravel underneath. Do you have any media from the old filter? What is your new filter and the media in it?

So whatever water you had in the old tank, you just transferred to the new tank including ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Your pH is a problem.

Read here about nitrite levels.
 
Here is a very direct and simple answer to your question about nitrates. Add floating plants.

They will take in the nitrates as the rapidly grow. They are natural. Provide cover for your fish. Can be easily controlled and remove the need for you to use a test kit.

Easy.
 
Here is a very direct and simple answer to your question about nitrates. Add floating plants.

They will take in the nitrates as the rapidly grow. They are natural. Provide cover for your fish. Can be easily controlled and remove the need for you to use a test kit.

Easy.
His problem is nitrites right now, not nitrates.
 
I understand his problem is nitrites, I'm attempting to correct that problem, hence the question in original post. Also this is a new tank and is still cycling, and dealing ich.

I have an Aqueon pro 40 pic of filters are attached. Image%20(1).jpg
 
His problem is nitrites right now, not nitrates.


Plants take in nitrogen. Since ammonia is a nitrogen compound the plants will use ammonia before it has a chance to become nitrite.

Nitrite is also very rarely an issue in aquaria because chloride ions block uptake and tap water has plenty of chloride. You only need heat to beat ich and OP said the fish are improving already with heat.
 
I understand his problem is nitrites, I'm attempting to correct that problem, hence the question in original post. Also this is a new tank and is still cycling, and dealing ich.

I have an Aqueon pro 40 pic of filters are attached. View attachment 318772


If i recall correctly you asked how to lower your nitrates in original post. Other than this ich, how are the fish acting?
 
If i recall correctly you asked how to lower your nitrates in original post. Other than this ich, how are the fish acting?
I also asked about adding more neutralizer to bring down the nitrites, but yes I also asked about nitrates. They seem to be acting normally. No clamped fins, hovering at the top or sitting on the bottom, or heavy breathing. Eating really well.
White spots are gone.
How long after spots are gone should I start to lower heat?
 
I also asked about adding more neutralizer to bring down the nitrites, but yes I also asked about nitrates. They seem to be acting normally. No clamped fins, hovering at the top or sitting on the bottom, or heavy breathing. Eating really well.
White spots are gone.
How long after spots are gone should I start to lower heat?


I’m not sure. Maybe trail and error. Leave a few days then reduce heat. If you see spot reappearing increase heat and wait a bit longer. Glad it’s gone.

Again, symptoms of nitrite toxicity are real but the likelihood of this happening in our aquariums is low. It is more likely that ammonia causes the damage in the first instance and that by coincidence we check for nitrites (with a relatively useless test method) then assume nitrite toxicity.

The fish are ok. Thats the main thing. You can tell very easily just by looking at them. Your observations are far more useful than any other test as far as fish health is concerned and in 98% of issues that would arise from the compounds these kits are supposedly checking, a water change would likely be all that is required to rectify them.
 
I’m not sure. Maybe trail and error. Leave a few days then reduce heat. If you see spot reappearing increase heat and wait a bit longer. Glad it’s gone.

Again, symptoms of nitrite toxicity are real but the likelihood of this happening in our aquariums is low. It is more likely that ammonia causes the damage in the first instance and that by coincidence we check for nitrites (with a relatively useless test method) then assume nitrite toxicity.

The fish are ok. Thats the main thing. You can tell very easily just by looking at them. Your observations are far more useful than any other test as far as fish health is concerned and in 98% of issues that would arise from the compounds these kits are supposedly checking, a water change would likely be all that is required to rectify them.
Thank you [emoji4]

You've been very helpful.

Recommendation for live plants?
Floating plants?
 
Thank you [emoji4]

You've been very helpful.

Recommendation for live plants?
Floating plants?


Amazon frogbit, salvinia, tiger lotus, Duckweed, water lettuce, riccia are good floaters.

Most crypts work well. Java fern, anubias, vallisneria, amazon swords, bacopa, sagatteria. You will need to do some research and keep the plants that do well in your water.
 
Amazon frogbit, salvinia, tiger lotus, Duckweed, water lettuce, riccia are good floaters.

Most crypts work well. Java fern, anubias, vallisneria, amazon swords, bacopa, sagatteria. You will need to do some research and keep the plants that do well in your water.
I have been, information overload...
 
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