Water hardness, nitrites, and ammonia

[micaelaarnold]

I just did my first water parameter check because I finally got enough money saved to buy some test strips (I know they aren't perfect in accuracy, but they were what I could get for now). I researched my zebra danios and it said they like soft water (.5-25 dH) I tested my water and it said the hardness was about 75 GH. What is the difference between dH and GH and what are the ways to soften water? I live in Arizona, so we naturally have relatively soft water. Does it need to be softened more?

I also got .5 on Nitrites which says "caution." How do I lower my nitrites and how are the Nitrates at 0 but the nitrites at .5?

Everything else seemed normal, although ammonia was a high. I used some ammonia removal and I will check in an hour or so. What are difference methods to removing ammonia and preventing build up? Does anyone have experience with TOPFIN ammonia remover? Does it work? I do two 50% water changes a week. I just preformed a 75% because I could smell the ammonia which I knew was not good.

I will attach a picture to this post about the products I got this morning.
As you can tell, I am very new to tanks. Any information at all would be helpful I am trying to do the best I can right now to keep my fish as happy as I can with what I have to work with.

Water perimeters in a nut shell:
ammonia: can't tell but between .5 and 1
Nitrates: close to 0
Nitrites: .5
Hardness: 75 GH ppm (freshwater)
Chlorines: 0
Alkalinity: 120
Ph: 6.8

 

[micaelaarnold]

Second picture is the ammonia test results, third is everything else

 

[micaelaarnold]

I just preformed another water change, but about 80% this time. I added ammonia removal to the water I just put in and I'm going to preform another test once my filter gets a handle at the new water

 

[micaelaarnold]

After this second water change, my ammonia went down go 0. I am thinking it is maybe over feeding. How much should three zebra danios eat a day? Currently I am following instructions on the back and doing a little in the morning and a little at night. Could that contribute?

 

[ScotJudd]

Feeding is often an issue for fish keepers. I use two rule of thumbs.
Only feed as much food as can be completely eaten in two minutes and a fish rarely needs more good quality flake than the size of their eye.
In the wild fish don't eat every day and, like in the zoos, should have one day a week not being fed.
I'm not saying you should starve your fish, but by just observing their feeding and the shape of their bodies will tell you if they are under or over fed.
Feed correctly and you tank should settle.
This is just my opinion though ?


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[micaelaarnold]

Feeding is often an issue for fish keepers. I use two rule of thumbs.
Only feed as much food as can be completely eaten in two minutes and a fish rarely needs more good quality flake than the size of their eye.
In the wild fish don't eat every day and, like in the zoos, should have one day a week not being fed.
I'm not saying you should starve your fish, but by just observing their feeding and the shape of their bodies will tell you if they are under or over fed.
Feed correctly and you tank should settle.
This is just my opinion though ?


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Thank you so much for your input! I have started to spread out my feeding and it seems my levels are settling to normal.

 

[Stacey W.]

The ammonia removers do not work. Water changes are the best way to remove waste. The smaller the tank means more water changes.

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[micaelaarnold]

The ammonia removers do not work. Water changes are the best way to remove waste. The smaller the tank means more water changes.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

Ya, I haven't been impressed with them and figured they wouldn't work but gave them a shot. I currently do twice a week 40-60% ish. Would you recommend more changes or does this suffice?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm a curious newbie

 

[Stacey W.]

No worries I'm still learning after 6 years. How big and how old is your tank? What is your current stock?

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[micaelaarnold]

I am currently very overstocked as I got it as a Christmas present and long story short, my boyfriend listened to an uneducated petsmart employee. No worries though, I'm saving up for the equipment for a larger tank and more fish to complete the school.

I have three zebra danios, two mystery snails, and a ghost shrimp. Like I said, I've had them since Christmas and these fish he said were a new shipment into the store so I would imagine they aren't more than three or four months old. Same with the snails and shrimp.
They are all relatively small still. My danios are probably no more than an inch long as well as the ghost shrimp. The snails are maybe an inch in diameter also.

 

[micaelaarnold]

Well, two danios now. The larger ones finally killed off my second green one I need to really get a larger tank. The perameters were fine, it's just aggression.

 

[trennamw]

Ok so that answers the question in the other thread.

Run, don't walk, to information on cycling your tank. Look up "fish in cycling". If you haven't already.

Until your beneficial bacteria colony establishes you need to control ammonia and nitrite with water changes and maybe Prime. Ammonia remover isn't fully helpful. You may need daily water changes for awhile.

Adding stuff to the water as a remedy for everything can induce osmotic stress.

Leave the hardness alone. You're close enough. With danios and similar beginner fish, there is a wide range of acceptable parameters for pH and hardness.

Very crudely put, GH is a measure of essential minerals and KH is a measure of just the minerals that help stabilize pH. Unless GH and KH are extremely low or extremely high, leave it alone.

For pH, GH, and KH, with most beginner fish, stability and avoiding additives is more important than a perfect number.


Sent from my iPhone with three hands tied behind my back.

 

[trennamw]

Are you sure they're killing each other? It could be the water parameters. Sounds like they've been dealing with ammonia, nitrite, and additives for several weeks now. Also glofish are more delicate than their non GMO relatives.


Sent from my iPhone with three hands tied behind my back.

 

[micaelaarnold]

Thank you for the information, it may not be fully cycled but the readings have been perfect for the past week and a half. I'm sure they are not dying because of the water quality because I have two of the original fish that are very aggressive. They have bitten the fins off of my previous fish, scared them out of eating, and slammed them into the glass walls. My recent fish that died had been beaten for about two weeks and hadn't eaten for a week straight. It was also missing half of its tail fins.
I have read they are very hardy fish anyways and I have read on in fish cycling but unfortunately after I had obtained all the specimens.

 

[micaelaarnold]

I have also stopped using my extra additives because I have noticed they weren't working and figured they could be doing more harm than anything. First fish tanks are a learning experience for everyone, I just feel bad for the fish I have and that they've been put through all this.

 

[micaelaarnold]

Thank you so much for the help, I really appreciate it