The war to end all wars: Betta Fin Rot *Help!*

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lauritastlouis

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
13
Location
St. Louis, MO
I have 1 male betta (Jar at Petsmart said halfmoon, but I suspect he's a delta tail).
10 Gallon Tank
Ammonia currently 0
Nitrates: 0
Nitrites: 0
PH ranges between 7.8 and 8.0 (St. Louis water! Oh Joy...)
Filter: Top Fin "Power Filter 10", 80 gph
15w heater. Tank kept between 80 - 82.
Feeding him 1 small flake in the evening when we turn the light on.

FYI: this tank is used as a "night light" for my 4 year old. Lights off during the day, til it gets dark outside, (when the room turns pitch black) and then on until around 7am. (The room is fairly dark during the day though) We intend to continue this until I can find day/night led lights that will work with our hood.

I got the tank and the betta 7 weeks ago from petsmart. Yes, I know I should have done more research first. This is my first tank since the one my parents had when I was a kid.

Followed bad advice from a supposed "specialty fish store". Was told not to change the water til the tank cycled. All was good for about 5 weeks. Ammonia never spiked above 0.5ppm. Finally, it hit 0. Nitrites spiked to 3.0ppm, and then Nitrates slowly raised to about 15ppm and nitrites lowered to 1.0ppm. Was told this was a good thing.

Around week 4 I noticed that the tips of both pectoral fins were turning white symetrically. Was told that if it didn't look fuzzy and if he was eating and swimming normally it was probably new fin growth or he was changing colors.

2 days after the nitrates started going up, I came home from work at about 2 am and realized that my hubby forgot to turn the light on in the tank since my son was spending the night at grandma's. Turned it on, and noticed he had 3 almost perfect triangles missing from his tail (was monitoring his fins due to the white fins so I know it wasn't there earlier that day). Thought it was maybe nipping due to the extended "night", but called Tropical World Pets the next day and they told me to come in and get some Maracyn. Treated for 5 days per instructions. Left in charcol cartrige since it was more than 8 days old, also per instructions. It turned the water cloudy but by the end of the treatment, I saw new growth, and 3 days later only one chunk was not completely healed. Day 8 post treatment I did a 25% water change and added a new filter.

2 days after that when to check on him, and it looked like someone hacked at his tail fin with scissors. Three 1/2" perfect slices and a pinhole in another section. I checked on him at 5pm before going to work and he was fine. No cuts, chunks or whatever. I got home again at 2 am from work, and there it all was.

The day before the Ammonia went back up to 0.5 ppm and the Nitrates and Nitrites were back down to 0. Even though Maracyn wasn't supposed to affect biological filter I chalked it up to that.

I called several different specialty stores and got all kinds of answers. One guy said to leave it in "god's hands" and that I should take out the heater. All they were good for was raising the electric bill as long as my house was kept above 70. (Not an option. my kid loves "Fish-Fish"). Another store told me to come in and buy a ph buffer and ammonia detox and change the water 25% weekly and he would heal all by himself. A third store told me add bacteria supplement and all would be well. So much conflicting info was annoying so I called around until I was referred to a local vet that actually knew something about aquatic vet. sciences. (Local vet that works with the St. Louis Zoo and consults on their aquatics, according to my hubby's cousin, who works for a different vet clinic). He prescribed 250mg flagyl, to be ground up and administered 1 x daily, with a 20% to 25% water change to prevent the flagyl from reaching toxic levels.

2 days later, the fin rot had gotten a lot worse. 1/4" inch lost top to bottom on the tail fin per day. Called the vet after on Black Friday (Got the Meds the day before Thanksgiving) and he said I could cross medicate with Maracyn. I added Maracyn 2 just in case it was gram neg. bacteria for good measure and I also picked up some aquarium salt.

I did a 25% change that day and added 3 tbs salt (roughly 1 tps per gallon, if you figure 1 gallon is displaced with substrate and decorations). He has had a dose of all 3 meds since last Friday.

For the past day or two, I noticed that the deterioration has either slowed or stopped. With so much of his tail fin gone, and his dorsal fin now affected, I could be wrong about it having stopped completely.

His tank is cloudy as can be now. Since I had recently changed the filter cartrige, I took it out before beginning meds this time. I do vacuum the gravel with each water change, but either it's a cruddy syphon, or I'm not doing it right because the darn thing won't even pick up the pieces of rotted fins without me breaking the syphon off and "catching it" in the tubes.

So now you know what's going on. Where do I go from here? Once the meds are done, do I do a major water change? If so, how much? How often? Should I do 100% to clear the meds out and then resalt the tank (I have not added salt since the initial dose, and it has been 3 daily 20 - 25% changes since)?

If these meds don't work, and either he gets worse or relapses then what? Do we euthanise, re-medicate? I plan on going 8 days with both Maracyn and Maracyn 2 because I read that this often needed.

I read on one site that I should be putting him in a bowl and salt 2 tsp per gallon and change 100% water daily with no meds and this will cure it, but the vet said that this is a horrible idea and the constant changes will stress him. If the meds don't work, should we try this as a last ditch effort? Or, should we put him in a smaller bowl for a few days with salt to help heal if he does start to get better and then clean the tank out witih 100% water change to get rid of the meds, and then acclimate back? Some people swear by the salt, others say that it's ineffective at best, unhealthy at worst.

Basically, every forum, store, expert, etc has a completely different opinion, and it seems that what one person swears by, a second will tell you that same method is the fast track to dead fish.

What next and what now? In the long run, we had planned on turning this into a community tank. I know I can only put a few different types with a Betta, but we were thinking a dwarf frog, a few tetras or platys and maybe a cory cat or snail (eventually we were going to upgrade to a 20 gallon before we had all of these in there of course).

Assuming we can get him healthy again, how do we recover the tank after all of this before we can add new fish? I am at a total loss here... Please, any thoughts solutions, advice, etc would be appreciated. And, sorry this is so long.....
 
Sounds like a typical case of fin rot. I'm guessing what happened was this: since you didn't change the water to help cycle the tank, (bad advice #1) the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates built up in the tank. These are toxic to fish and probably stressed him out and weakened his immune system, in addition to poor water quality.

Then, when the tank finally cycled, you took the filter out that had all the beneficial bacteria (BB) in it that was breaking the ammonia down as part of the natural nitrate cycle, so basically the tank had to start all over again to recycle. There was probably some BB in the substrate but that wouldn't be enough to help much.

Betta's love warm water so I would keep the heater (bad advice #2. Man, who hires these people?! Haha) A temperature around 76-80 degrees or so makes a happy betta.

When you added the salt, did you mix it with tank water, or just dump it in the tank? Just adding the salt can be detrimental to your poor fish's already weakened state. What will work best is multiple water changes. Pick yourself up an API Freshwater Master Test Kit. They are about 30 bucks at petsmart, and super cheap online.

Any amount of ammonia or nitrites in the water is no good. You want to test the water daily, or multiple times daily, each time you do a water change. Make sure you use a water conditioner, and temperature-matched water. Salt will help with the fin rot, but you want to mix it with some tank water in another container before you add it to the tank. Personally, I've never used salt and always had good results with multiple water changes. Medication is rarely necessary with fin rot.

It's not really your fault, it sounds like you got all kinds of bad advice!

Hope that helps!
 
re: fin rot

Thanks for the reply. When I added the salt I added it to the bucket while treating the water. The conditioner I used detoxes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. After chlorine tested 0 in my bucket (use litmus style strips that test for chlorine in ppm for bar sanitation sinks lol get hem free at my work... ) I then added the salt and let the bucket sit til it was dissolved fully before adding to the tank.

I do have the master test kit from api. Before I bought that I was using the API liquid ammonia test and 6 in one strips to test for the other stuff. I have been testing daily since this second bout of fin rot showed up. I test right before the water change. If I see something alarming I retest after. The baseline ammonia level in our water (prior to using something to break down the chloramine ) is between 1 and 2 ppm. I don't know why our water is that high. I try and match the temp as best I can.

But once the meds are done what do I do then? Should I change water daily till its clear again? I did pick up a bottle of bacteria. Should I add that just in case? How often? I the meds work on the fin rot how long should I let our fish heal before adding a tank mate? How long do fins take to grow back? How long until I can assume that the meds are removed? All of his is so hazy to me
 
After letting the meds run their course, you want to do between 25% and 50% water changes daily, I would say. You can also run your carbon filter, as the carbon filters out medications. You might have said, but what filter are you running? When you removed your filter, did you keep it damp? If not, you'll need to start over with the cycling process.

If you have an API test kit, I would honestly toss out the 6-in-one test strips. They are inaccurate to the point of being sad. When you get a chance, test your water parameters with the two-bottle test for ammonia. But make sure you test everything else too: pH, nitrites, and nitrates. You really need to shake the second bottle of the nitrate test before you add the 10 drops. The stuff won't give an accurate reading if you don't. Smack it against your palm or a table or something. If your water is really that high, for ammonia, you might need to find another water source for your tank. That is high for ammonia.

I would wait until after your tank is cycled, and your betta is fully healed before attempting to add tank-mates. So a month minimum. Healing depends on water changes and how extensive the damage is. You want to make sure the problems with the tank are all sorted out before you add a greater bio-load to your tank.

Edit: I just checked your posts again. Part of your problem might actually be your filter. 80 gph filtration for a 15 gallon betta tank might be too strong for the little guy! Betta like slower moving water since their fins are so heavy. If they can't fight the current they will sit on the bottom instead of swimming around. Hopefully someone else will chime in on that matter of filter size.
 
re: fin rot

The filter I am using came with the kit. I am planning on getting a different filter but I was told to wait until this is straightened out before adding a second filteand hen run the new on with he old for a few weeks while the bacteria grow in he new one.

As far as I can tell the filter strength hasn't really bothered him, even with the damaged fins. He likes to swim close to the filter and then let it "shoot him around he tank. Then he swims 2 or 3 laps around and does it again over and over again. Quite fun to watch actually. And since he keeps making a direct swim across the tank to it I can only assume its on purpose. He has never been one to hang out near the bottom of the tank. Even when he has been sick he typically stays near the top and is a very active little swimmer.


I still have the filter on and running. I just took put he carbon cartridge. I left in the sponge thingy that is supposed to contain the biological media growth. This was per the instructions that came with he maracyn and maracyn 2.

As far as the fin rot goes, if all these meds don't cure it should I just leave it and see if water changes can help or should I euthanise so he doesn't suffer more? I cant stand to see a creature suffer and I would assume that if it gets much worse he would start to suffer. At this point he is still fairly active and is still eating well and actively seeking us for food when we approach the tank so he must not be in too much pain but I can't imagine that will remain the case if this continues.
 
That is up to you, but if he hasn't lost the will to live you shouldn't give up on him. :) just keep up on daily water changes and monitoring. He will turn around!
 
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