Not exactly DIY, but need tips on repair

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grystn

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Sep 13, 2008
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I acquired a 42 gallon hex Oceanic tank a while ago, and the previous owner said it is leaking. Like with most tanks, I thought the seal must have stripped, and he did not seal it well. Ok, got it home, stripped and re-sealed the whole thing, and let the glue cure for 2 weeks.

Put water in, and it did not drip anymore. Waited another week to be sure.

Put gravel in for planted aquarium, still no drips. waited another week for the muck to clear up.

Put plants in, and then fish, still no drip. I thought I had it.

2 months later, it started dripping, big time. Seems like the top brace were starting to part at the joints, and the water pressure tore through one of the sealed edges, and seems like 3 out of the 6 jointed corners were parting.

I thought I might get a welded copper or brass piece to go around the brace, and reseal it, but that would make it look tacky. Anyone with any idea on how else I can repair the seal and prevent it from happening again?

Having a nice aquarium is fun for me, but ripping up the carpet and cleaning up the mess is definitely not anywhere in the equation.


Adam
 
Welcome to the site! I wouldn't use copper either.
 
Thanks!

Thanks for the warm welcome. I figured that I should post some pictures and let you see what I am talking about. I have gone to the Glasscages websit, but they do not cater to a hexago tank, and I guess I migt have to go to Oceanic, which I am kinda reluctant to because I think it might be cheaper to get a new bow front tank instead.

Anyhow, the first attached picture would show how the tank is, without water, without pressure on the edges. The second picture, with just my hand, I can part the seam, and on a hex tank, 3 out of the 6 are parting.

If I discount the idea of going to Oceanic altogether, I have a few thoughts:

1) scrap all the trims out, put them on a flat workspace, and use some super duper industrial glue to hold them back together, and then re-seal them to the tank

2) Go to a local metal shop, and see if they can get something rust-proof made out to fit the shape. I can deal with the metal, but it is still an up-in-the-air thing until I can find someone to do it

Any thoughts?
 

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actually if you can get all the frame off....you can use a plastic epoxy then reseal to the top of the tank. clean everything off with alcohol (isopropel) this will work fine....you may have to also use some sandpaper to clean up the angles really good
 
If the vertical seals are separating, you need to dismantle and rebuild the tank. The trim is not designed to hold the tank together. The least amount of pressure is at the top of the tank. If you see spreading there, as evidenced in the photo, the joints are failing, and need to be redone.
 
Agree with Bill .... if the seams are separating & the tank is leaking, you need to take the tank apart. your resealing job failed because the silicone between the panes are failing & falling apart. You'd need to separate the panes, scrape off all the old silicone between the panes, clean & put the tank back together, then redo all the seams.

Also, I would not use copper trim since copper is toxic to inverts & persists forever in a tank.
 
From what I know, the water co. put phosphates in the water so it reacts with new water pipes to form a coating to stop the leeching of cooper. <And I can see the white coating in all the old pipes I took out.> In theory, a brand new pipe may leech cooper for a while but a good dechlor should take care of it. ..... So I think this would be different from having a source of cooper in the tank.
 
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