Algae Problem in High Tech Tank, Help!!!! (RO/DI, Ferts, CO2)

[Aquazan]

Hello AA members!!

I am suffering from an algae problem (<<So Cliche right? , I do stay up to schedule with my water changes, but it always creeps back and I am trying to find out the root of the problem. Any help/advice from all of you algae detectives is greatly appreciated

Tank Stats:
Both Tanks are planted
Tank 1 (30 Gallon Community Tank)
-2 BPS CO2
-Finnex Ray 2 DS
-48 watt T5 fixture
-Ecocomplete

Tank 2 (10 Gallon Baby Tears + Shrimp Tank)
-1.5 BPS
-Finnex FugeRay (20")
-Marineland Single Bright LED
-ADA Aquasoil

I may also start dosing PPS-Pro, It arrived yesterday and I mixed up the nutrients. Good or Bad Idea to start with my setup?

Since I have gotten an RO/DI system, I have been using RO/DI water mixed with Seachem Equilibrium/Acid/Alkaline to restore the KH/GH in the water. However, I have heard things about this being bad for a planted tank b/c it causes algae issues. Can anyone testify to this?

What is the best way to prepare RO/DI water for a planted tank? (Resore Minerals/Balance PH/Restore KH)

I have heard that some people mix it with tap water, but wouldn't the chlorine in the tap harm the fish/shrimp? The nutrient levels in tap water are a whole other story too...

What should I do/do any of you notice anything that stands out?

Thanks for any input!!

 

[Tobykourtney]

Hello AA members!! I am suffering from an algae problem (<<So Cliche right? , I do stay up to schedule with my water changes, but it always creeps back and I am trying to find out the root of the problem. Any help/advice from all of you algae detectives is greatly appreciated Tank Stats: Both Tanks are planted Tank 1 (30 Gallon Community Tank) -2 BPS CO2 -Finnex Ray 2 DS -48 watt T5 fixture -Ecocomplete Tank 2 (10 Gallon Baby Tears + Shrimp Tank) -1.5 BPS -Finnex FugeRay (20") -Marineland Single Bright LED -ADA Aquasoil I may also start dosing PPS-Pro, It arrived yesterday and I mixed up the nutrients. Good or Bad Idea to start with my setup? Since I have gotten an RO/DI system, I have been using RO/DI water mixed with Seachem Equilibrium/Acid/Alkaline to restore the KH/GH in the water. However, I have heard things about this being bad for a planted tank b/c it causes algae issues. Can anyone testify to this? What is the best way to prepare RO/DI water for a planted tank? (Resore Minerals/Balance PH/Restore KH) I have heard that some people mix it with tap water, but wouldn't the chlorine in the tap harm the fish/shrimp? The nutrient levels in tap water are a whole other story too... What should I do/do any of you notice anything that stands out? Thanks for any input!!

Do you have a drop checker for these tanks? And what kind of algae do you have?

 

[Aquazan]

Do you have a drop checker for these tanks? And what kind of algae do you have?

Yeah, I have a drop checker in the smaller tank, I ordered another one for the 30 gallon a few days ago (I just installed the CO2 system on it). The drop checker in the smaller tank is always light green (>30 ppm).

All the algae I see is Hair Algae. It is growing on the substrate and plant leaves. It recedes right after a water change, but grows back quickly in a few days.

Thanks for replying!

 

[Tobykourtney]

Yeah, I have a drop checker in the smaller tank, I ordered another one for the 30 gallon a few days ago (I just installed the CO2 system on it). The drop checker in the smaller tank is always light green (>30 ppm). All the algae I see is Hair Algae. It is growing on the substrate and plant leaves. It recedes right after a water change, but grows back quickly in a few days. Thanks for replying!

What's your w/c % and increment? When do you you turn your co2 in correlation with your lights?the only things I can think of is high organically or your co2 isn't saturating your water when the lights come on. Also what's your light duration? Having your lights on to long will also cause algae. I ask about the lights because you are in the high light category so a slight miscalculation is devastating. I only run my lights on my high light tank for 6 hours.

 

[Aquazan]

What's your w/c % and increment? When do you you turn your co2 in correlation with your lights?the only things I can think of is high organically or your co2 isn't saturating your water when the lights come on. Also what's your light duration? Having your lights on to long will also cause algae. I ask about the lights because you are in the high light category so a slight miscalculation is devastating. I only run my lights on my high light tank for 6 hours.

I do 30-50% water changes every week to two weeks (I am busy, so when I have time) I have my CO2 and lights on the same timer, so they turn on and off at the same time, is it necessary to get another timer?

I have lights on from 10:30 to 7:30, so 9 hours. How long should I run it (and from when to when?)

Thanks!

 

[Tobykourtney]

I do 30-50% water changes every week to two weeks (I am busy, so when I have time) I have my CO2 and lights on the same timer, so they turn on and off at the same time, is it necessary to get another timer? I have lights on from 10:30 to 7:30, so 9 hours. How long should I run it (and from when to when?) Thanks!

I would limit your lights to 6 hours and have your co2 turn on at least an hour before your lights

 

[misterc007]

I would limit your lights to 6 hours and have your co2 turn on at least an hour before your lights

I totally agree with this I cant run my lights more then 6 hours with out the same type of algae problems. What are you feeding your fish? and what kind of filter media do you use? High organics can cause algae problems. I've learned that the hard way!

 

[Coursair]

Hello AA members!! I am suffering from an algae problem (<<So Cliche right? , I do stay up to schedule with my water changes, but it always creeps back and I am trying to find out the root of the problem. Any help/advice from all of you algae detectives is greatly appreciated Tank Stats: Both Tanks are planted Tank 1 (30 Gallon Community Tank) -2 BPS CO2 -Finnex Ray 2 DS -48 watt T5 fixture -Ecocomplete Tank 2 (10 Gallon Baby Tears + Shrimp Tank) -1.5 BPS -Finnex FugeRay (20") -Marineland Single Bright LED -ADA Aquasoil I may also start dosing PPS-Pro, It arrived yesterday and I mixed up the nutrients. Good or Bad Idea to start with my setup? Since I have gotten an RO/DI system, I have been using RO/DI water mixed with Seachem Equilibrium/Acid/Alkaline to restore the KH/GH in the water. However, I have heard things about this being bad for a planted tank b/c it causes algae issues. Can anyone testify to this? What is the best way to prepare RO/DI water for a planted tank? (Resore Minerals/Balance PH/Restore KH) I have heard that some people mix it with tap water, but wouldn't the chlorine in the tap harm the fish/shrimp? The nutrient levels in tap water are a whole other story too... What should I do/do any of you notice anything that stands out? Thanks for any input!!

Done correctly Ferts like PPS-Pro plus CO2 will help your plants compete with the Algae.
BUT weekly water changes are Required AFAIK using a high tech system.

Many of my club members use a combo of Tap plus RO water. The only people using straight RO and Equilibrium are usually those trying to breed the delicate/rare Shrimp species.

I've used 1/2 Tap 1/2 Distilled for my CRS to lower TDS.
I use Prime to condition my Tap water.

And yes, reduce lighting to 6 hours. Start your Ferts dosing and then see how it goes. You can try working up to 8 hours total, but cut back if you see Algae.

You can use a split schedule if needed so you can see your fish more. I have my lights on 4 hours in the morning and then 4 hours in the evening so I can watch my tank at night. No direct sunlight, only tank lights.

 

[Rivercats]

Usually the rule with lighting is the higher the light the shorter the photoperiod. In my very high light 220g I can only run my metal halides 5-1/2 hours. I do have some very low lights I run for a couple hours before and after the halides.

Are you keeping track of nitrate and phosphate levels? Once you start dosing the dry ferts and running lights for a shorter duration you should see a change.

One thing you can do is spot treat the hair algae with hydrogen peroxide 3%. Turn off filters and pull up 3ml of peroxide for every 1 gallon of tank water. Slowly squirt the algae as close to it as possible. If you have a lot you will have to treat an area a day. Leave filters off 20 minutes after treating. Algae usually begins to die off within 24 hours.

Then if you cut lighting and start your dry ferts you should be in good shape.

 

[Aquazan]

Usually the rule with lighting is the higher the light the shorter the photoperiod. In my very high light 220g I can only run my metal halides 5-1/2 hours. I do have some very low lights I run for a couple hours before and after the halides.

Are you keeping track of nitrate and phosphate levels? Once you start dosing the dry ferts and running lights for a shorter duration you should see a change.

One thing you can do is spot treat the hair algae with hydrogen peroxide 3%. Turn off filters and pull up 3ml of peroxide for every 1 gallon of tank water. Slowly squirt the algae as close to it as possible. If you have a lot you will have to treat an area a day. Leave filters off 20 minutes after treating. Algae usually begins to die off within 24 hours.

Then if you cut lighting and start your dry ferts you should be in good shape.

My Nitrate levels are near 0-5 ppm, it is hard to tell on the color chart haha. I have begun to dose phosphorous (seachem), but now that I have PPS, ill just dose that instead.

I have shortened my lights to 6 hours a day, hopefully I will see a a decrease in algae when combined with the Dry ferts.

I am scared to try Hydrogen Peroxide because I don't want to harm my shrimp in my 10 gallon tank, but maybe I will give it a try in my 30 gallon (it has amanos though).

Thanks!

 

[Aquazan]

I totally agree with this I cant run my lights more then 6 hours with out the same type of algae problems. What are you feeding your fish? and what kind of filter media do you use? High organics can cause algae problems. I've learned that the hard way!

I will try getting my hands on another CO2 timer, but may I ask why it matters in terms of algae growth to turn on the CO2 earlier than the lights?

I feed my shrimp in the small tank every 1-2 days regular azoo food, I dont feed them often. In my 30 gallon, I feed them tetracolor crisps, but only 3-4 times a week, I feed my pleco algae wafers too so they snack on the leftovers there.

I don't use carbon in any of my tanks, I have ceramic bio media, and just filter foam + floss.

For anyone else, how essential is it to do water changes if I am maintaining proper lights/ferts and my nitrates are in check?

Thanks!

 

[Rivercats]

By turning CO2 on an hour before lights it allows the CO2 to begin to saturate the water sooner so when lights go on the plants can utilize it faster. I turn mine on 1 hour before lights go on and turn it off 1 hour before lights go off.

If you want you can do as little as 1ml peroxide per gallon of water. It oxidizes from the water pretty quickly. Or liquid carbon works the same. I have Fire Red Cherry Shrimp and use both peroxide if needed and liquid carbon daily at a rate of 1ml per every 1-1/2 gallons of tank water with no problems. Also use liquid carbon daily at a rate of 1ml to every 1 gallon of tank water in the 24g that houses delicate nano fish, Mexican Orange Dwarf Crays, and Thai Micro Crabs and have use peroxide in that tank a couple times.

 

[Rivercats]

The problem with only doing WC's going by the level of nitrates you have IMO is a bad idea. A lot more than just nitrates build up in tanks. There are tons of various toxins that over time will build up if adequate WC's aren't done on a regular basis even in large tanks with low bioloads. It just takes lower for them to build up to toxic levels. Small tanks build up toxins much faster. By doing a large WC weekly you ensure toxins never have a chance to build up. I have multiple tanks with my largest being a high light- high tech 220g tank that is 100% planted and I still do 50% weekly WC's. Not long ago there was a WC thread and this is what AquaChem posted....

"How confident are you that nitrogenous waste, phosphates, and GH / KH are the only thing that builds up? Don't make the mistake of confusing undetectable/unmeasureable with not there.


Fish don't just excrete ammonia. They excrete many, many organic molecules (metabolites, proteins, etc) that could potentially be toxic. These compounds could have a number of potentially hazardous effects on a tank, such as (and completely made up on the spot): noxious to fish gills, bioaccumulation, or fueling dangerous (or unsightly) heterotrophic bacteria or algae species like cyanobacteria."

 

[Aquazan]

The problem with only doing WC's going by the level of nitrates you have IMO is a bad idea. A lot more than just nitrates build up in tanks. There are tons of various toxins that over time will build up if adequate WC's aren't done on a regular basis even in large tanks with low bioloads. It just takes lower for them to build up to toxic levels. Small tanks build up toxins much faster. By doing a large WC weekly you ensure toxins never have a chance to build up. I have multiple tanks with my largest being a high light- high tech 220g tank that is 100% planted and I still do 50% weekly WC's. Not long ago there was a WC thread and this is what AquaChem posted....

"How confident are you that nitrogenous waste, phosphates, and GH / KH are the only thing that builds up? Don't make the mistake of confusing undetectable/unmeasureable with not there.


Fish don't just excrete ammonia. They excrete many, many organic molecules (metabolites, proteins, etc) that could potentially be toxic. These compounds could have a number of potentially hazardous effects on a tank, such as (and completely made up on the spot): noxious to fish gills, bioaccumulation, or fueling dangerous (or unsightly) heterotrophic bacteria or algae species like cyanobacteria."

Haha I understand, what's the longest I can go without doing a WC? I am pretty busy, so is like every 2-3 weeks too long?

Thanks for all of this writing Rivercats!!

 

[Rivercats]

Haha I understand, what's the longest I can go without doing a WC? I am pretty busy, so is like every 2-3 weeks too long?

Thanks for all of this writing Rivercats!!

If all you can do is every two weeks I'd shoot for changing out 50% every two weeks. But do watch your nitrate levels.

I use an Aqueon Water Changer which makes water changes much easier, less messy, and with no buckets. I even use it for my 6g. The only thing is when you have shrimp or tiny fish (like my nano fish) I put the end of a woman pantyhose or knee hi nylon over the intake of the hose and rubber band it on. I also do not use the gravel cleaner that comes with it, just the hose since I don't clean gravel in my planted tanks. I just clip the hose in the tank at the level of how much water I want to change out. Then turn the faucet on to start suction, turn the faucet off, then let the tank drain down to the hose level. In a small tank it won't take long at all. Then once drained be sure the hose is out of the water and turn faucet on to drain the hose. Set your water temp and flip the valve to send water to the tank. Go dose the tank with enough Declor or Prime to treat the entire tank. Watch as a small 10g tank will take minutes to fill so don't walk away. When the tank is full go turn off the water. Flip the valve to suction out the hose using the faucet again then wrap the hose up until the next time. I have a string I tie up the hose with.

 

[Aquazan]

If all you can do is every two weeks I'd shoot for changing out 50% every two weeks. But do watch your nitrate levels.

I use an Aqueon Water Changer which makes water changes much easier, less messy, and with no buckets. I even use it for my 6g. The only thing is when you have shrimp or tiny fish (like my nano fish) I put the end of a woman pantyhose or knee hi nylon over the intake of the hose and rubber band it on. I also do not use the gravel cleaner that comes with it, just the hose since I don't clean gravel in my planted tanks. I just clip the hose in the tank at the level of how much water I want to change out. Then turn the faucet on to start suction, turn the faucet off, then let the tank drain down to the hose level. In a small tank it won't take long at all. Then once drained be sure the hose is out of the water and turn faucet on to drain the hose. Set your water temp and flip the valve to send water to the tank. Go dose the tank with enough Declor or Prime to treat the entire tank. Watch as a small 10g tank will take minutes to fill so don't walk away. When the tank is full go turn off the water. Flip the valve to suction out the hose using the faucet again then wrap the hose up until the next time. I have a string I tie up the hose with.

Instead of doing 50% water changes every 2 weeks, I might just try like 25% every week instead, just so the parameters don't swing so much.

I own an Aqueon water changer, but there are no places to hook it up near my tank, I use it on my 75 Gal aquarium in the basement. I don't want to use purely tap water for my tanks, I use the Aqueon for draining the water haha.

 

[Rivercats]

That will work as well. I'm a 50% weekly on all my tanks girl, even the 220g, but then I'm retired... lol!

 

[Aquazan]

So I removed a lot of the algae in my 10 Gallon manually off of the baby tears (it is still on the rocks, I might use H2O2 for that or take it off later), and I have started dosing PPS-Pro. Additionally, I shortened the lights on both the tanks to 6 hours each. I will try getting 2 more timers so that I can offset the Co2 from the lights.

Is there anything else you all think I should do?

 

[Rivercats]

That is a good place to start. You can always tweek things later.

 

[Aquazan]

Update: I took out the rocks about 2 weeks ago and scrubbed them clean of algae, and since then none of it has grown back onto the rocks! However, the algae has grown back on the baby tears in my 10 gallon and also the gravel in my 29 gallon. Although, it is growing back a lot slower! I am still dosing PPS Pro, but I have not bought extra timers yet (i might soon).

Im thinking that if I start the H2O2 dosing then i can kill a lot of the algae and keep the rest (since the algae is growing back very slowly) under control with the shrimp/fish in the tanks. So, who here knows how to dose H2O2 safely?

I just bought the 3% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide today.