Do i need Pressurized CO2 to control my algae?

[Satsumas]

Hi all.

I have a 25 gallon tank which i am still setting up, i have a BN pleco, 3 Oto's and 2 Amano Shrimp in there at the moment.
There are also some Bacopa, Elodea Densa and some HC which is trying its best to grow in amoungst the mass of algae which covers the bottom.

I am using a 96W CF for lighting and i thought this would be a problem with algae and i am correct! I thought the DIY CO2 would at least stunt the algae growth but it seems the only thing keeping the plants alive are the fish in the tank!

Im not sure what algae it is but its everywhere, it forms a blanket over the eco complete and grows on the glass and plants. My pleco eats a load of it every night and i think she is keeping the HC alive and healthy! Saying that i am quite surprised at how well the HC is doing, its spreading well and is a nice low, compact carpet in some areas.

I dose KNO3, KSO4 and Flourish on alternate days with a 50% PWC at the end of the week.

Will i need to buy a pressurized system to keep the CO2 accurate and stop it fluctuating? I make up a new mix of CO2 every week and alternate between the 2 bottles (bottle A is changed on week 1, week 3, week 5 with bottle B being changed on week 2, week 4, week 6 etc.)

Would buying more plants help control the algae?
I plan to plant heavily so there are quite a few that i would like to buy.

Tank Details

25 Gal Tank
Fluval 205
Eco complete
Fluval 100W heater
96W CF (On for 8-10 hours)
KSO4, KNO3 & Flourish (alternate days, EI)
BN Pleco, 3 Oto's, 2 Amano Shrimp
Bacopa C, HC, Elodea Densa
DIY CO2

TIA

 

[Peyton]

You can help to control algae as long as your diligent in changing your mixes.

As far as what kind of algae it is look here

http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9

What are you using as a source for PO4?

I would suggest more plants also. Some fast growers like wisteria or hygro will outcompete the algae for nutrients.

 

[dapellegrini]

While you are having algae problems you should probably be doing PWC ever 2-3 days after removing what you can. You may also try reducing the light cycle. More plants always help, but are not necessary if your intention is to grow out the ones you have. You should have way fewer algae problems when your plant mass is around 50% of the tank though.

Are you monitoring your kH/pH for CO2 levels? Fluctuating CO2 is a leading cause of algae problems. Some folks can pull off DIY with good consistency, I am not one of those people. Pressurized CO2 would also help (maybe a lot)

I know you have been setting up this tank for a long time now, but I don't believe I have ever seen a picture of what you are working on... To say, post a pic if you can.

 

[Satsumas]

Im not sure what im using as a source of phosphate really.
I was going to order some Mono Potassium Phosphate when i did my first order but they had sold out.

The algae which grows on the bottom i would say is BGA, it looks bluey and slimy when i turn the light off but it just looks like normal blanket algae in light.

I have some elodea in there but just how many fast growers will i need?
I also dont want any of these plants in my tank in the future so i would just be using them to control algae. Would i have to slowly take them out and replace them with the plants i actually want?

Yes i am a beginner to the planted tank. lol

 

[dapellegrini]

I would recommend starting out with the plants that you want but in quantities that would let you fill out your tank fairly well at the start.

 

[Hoovercat]

And you can use Fleet enema as a PO4 source until you get dry MPP. On your size tank use a rough EI of 2ml of fleet every other day to make sure PO4 stays present and doesn't bottom out. Dose on the day you're NOT dosing trace.

Right now, imbalance of nutrients rather than the CO2 system's inefficiency is likely causing most of your algae problems. Getting N,P, and K up will help get rid of the BGA. You'll also want to clean up as much of the algae as possible by hand. A 4-5 day blackout may kill off what's present but won't stop the source and erythromycin (antibiotic sold in US as maracyn, IIRC) can kill off BGA if nothing else works.


Another common treatment for BGA is to add current to the affected area by powerhead. BGA likes still water.

http://www.aquariaplants.com/alqaeproblems.htm This link will help you identify what else we need to fight.

Then keep your ferts dosed up for a week and see where that leaves us. You can beat all algaes just learn your enemy.

Edited by An t-iasg to fix link

 

[dapellegrini]

Check this link for some more ideas on BGA: http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/

(scroll all the way to the bottom)

 

[Satsumas]

I'm dreading that when i do my next order of plants which maybe tonight i will just be wasting my time. I think that even if i completely plant the tank up to match the design in my head and fill any spaces with fast growers that they will just get covered in algae.

When i make the order i think i'll get some wisteria aswell and use that as the back-up nutrient sponge and plant in abundance!
I'm also hoping that my pleco gains a strong dominance over the alge, its difficult to remove the alge off the substrate without up-rooting some of the HC if i could easily do this then im sure my pleco would be ontop of the algae.
Everytime i turn the light on i see about 5-6 patches and breaks in the algae blanket where the pleco has eaten, she does seem to eat a lot and im sure that if i could lower the algae quantity then she would be in control of it.

So what should be my next plan of action?
Im due a 50% PWC today and to make a new CO2 mix, should i just start cleaning the glass and trying to remove as much algae as possible everyday?

I'm looking to add the following plants by the way but without doubt more will be added to the list...
Anubias barteri var nana 'petite' x3
Pogostemom Helferi (Downoi)
Lilaeopsis Brasiliensis (Miscrosword)
Echinodorus Tenellus (Narrow leaf chain sword)
Blyxa Japonica

 

[dapellegrini]

If you are dosing ferts and have the right light, all that is left is CO2. When was the last time you measured CO2? I highly recommend picking up a drop checker and some 4dKh reference solution.

I would get the BGA under control before adding more nice plants. I think a black out may be in order with frequent PWCs to get rid of that before moving on. I have never had to do that, so perhaps someone else could help on any details there.

IME going pressurized CO2 is well worth the money if you are really going to stay with it.

 

[Satsumas]

Yes I do think that the CO2 is the problem, i just dont trust the DIY method fully. I had problems with it earlier on and there were no bubbles appearing in the tank, after i changed the tubing it started to work and has done since. That was another confidence knocker though and with 4.8 wpg i think i need it to be accurate and reliable.
The only problem is the cost though, it seems like a hell of a lot of money just to have CO2 in my tank, also money isnt something that i have in abundance.

I think i might try a complete blackout before adding nicer more expensive plants, i will be really annoyed and dissapointed if they are infested with algae within a week of putting them in!

So if i did a blackout then planted the tank right up then the algae shouldnt ever really gain a foothold should it? Also with my oto's, shrimp and pleco then hopefully they will eat any algae that starts to spread.

I have a bad feeling that it will just come back again though, i think i may have to buy a pressurized system just to ease my worries and give me more peace of mind.

I tested my kH yesterday and it was 14. I think it was a AP test kit and you had to add drops of solution into the test tube of tank water and you count the drops added until the tank water turns yellow, it took 14 drops of solution so therefore my kH was 14. I'm new to this kind of test so it seems a bit alien to me at the moment. I'll try to keep a good track of my pH readings also.

Thanks for the help so far!