For those with Green Water and Other Water Problems

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Allelotoxicity seems the most likely cause for this reaction, not the "ammonia sponge effect." There is no way a twig/branch with such a minute surface area can compete on that level with an established microorganism infestation.
 
Well,I posted for those people who would need/appreciate the help,and this method is working great for me and the green water is dissapating.
 
Posting all possible options is always a good thing. Thanks for showing me this, I just might try it.
 
Well I'm perplexed with this one. The link posted has very conflicting data. My biggest concern is a false positive due to the amount of time it required for the GW to dissipate. I'm not going to sign up to that site since it looks like its pretty much dead, but if anyone is a member there, ask someone to take a willow piece that has already established roots (and cleaned another tank).

Wash it, and then put it in a tank with green water. If it clears up in a couple days (under a week), then I think you could say it is successfully removing the green water. If it still takes several weeks, I would be more apt to say the algae is starving ITSELF to death (all the food gets consumed, massive die-off, looks like the willow helped).

From a scientific standpoint it would be wonderful to know the exact cause/reason for the GW to die, but for the majority of us we want it to work and work quickly, how it goes about it doesn't really matter.

I also think that trying to dose with asparin tablets cannot really be the same as a willow branch releasing the same/similar chemical. I could easily see the natural chemical from the plant being complexed with something else driving algae death, and not the chemical itself.

Again I'm pessimistic to this idea actually doing anything, but its great that people are trying to figure this problem out.

Here's hoping I don't get a case of the GW. :)

justin
 
Well I am not sure how it works but at SFBAAPS(they were providing the willow branches) there are alot of success stories on how this somehow got rid of green water.But then this method at for those patient ones who can wait a long time,because I really wouldn't want to black-out my tank and this way seems more reasonable IMO.
 
I've never had GW, but I've got a diatom filter and plenty of powder on hand if I ever do!
 
I wonder what their tanks readings are after this. the willow (or any terrestrial plant) will suck up phosphate.. you could get the same effect with water changes and increasing NO3 to get the ratio in check, blackouts work great if you can do them. Also phosphate removing media can be effective.. there are many ways to combat it, but sticking a branch in my tank that may have been sprayed with pesticides or could be soaked in pollutants is not on my list to try..
 
Don't feel attacked, Boards are there so people can post their opinions, we all have them and not posting them could hold out on some information taht is very useful to many.

How is that saying, the only bad opinion is the one left unsaid.. or something like that..
 
I cant figure out the reasoning (and now you see why I posted ugh about this topic).
I CAN assure you though the APC is far from dead and has some of the most knowledgeable planted tank members anywhere. I am a member there and watched the thread progress.
The funny thing about greenwater (Euglaena) is once induced (usually by a flux in temp and or introduction of NH4 into an aquarium) is it can use any form of N. It can also use N in levels we cannot readily test for (Pbb).
The willow branch method to me is nothing but another snakeoil remedy. It is stated that willow consumes NH4/NH3 faster than aquatic plants do. Thats fine for preventing a gw outbreak but not once it occurs. If a fully stocked tank with healthy plants cannot rid a tank of it, then how can a willow branch. That rules out the nutrient absorbtion theory.............

My advice to people still fighting greenwater is......
1. Figure out how you got it. Helpful to know so you don't repeat it.
2. Use remedies that have been proven to work. (Blackout, UV, Diatom, Daphnia)
3. Find out what algaes need to survive and do what it takes to harass them. Most algaes are microphytes. Plants are macrophytes. While algae adjust easier to change, plants can utilize more complex foods and energies. They also store nutrients more abundantly than algaes. Once you understand how they work, fixing mistakes becomes easier and so does prevention.
 
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