I guess the question should be

[Fishyfanatic]

What kind of algae DON'T I have.

Black algae is growing on my rocks, back wall, pot, and Anubias Nana. Yesterday I spent 20 minutes scraping it off the backwall with a razor. I've trimmed the Anubias leaves that had the black algae.

On the back wall and driftwood I have a green fuzzy algae. I scraped a lot of that off the glass. I only went down to the water line during the water change.

Today I notice what looks like hair algae forming.

I also have the usual diatoms or another form of brown algae growing on the side and front glass. I use the glass scraper on this every few days.

This all started once I added the Pressurized CO2, dosed ferts, and added the light strip. What am I lacking? I'm doing 60% water changes once a week, dosing daily, and my CO2 is at about 2 or 3 bps. What can I do?

I've never had a drop of algae in this tank until upgrading. The good news is that I don't have the calcium buildup like I used to have. My new schedule is helping that. But at this point I'd rather have calcium buildup than all of this algae.

 

[maxwell1295]

My guess is that you need to up CO2. Of course, I say this without knowing how much you are injecting right now. The key to not let any of your ferts bottom out. The EI system is probably the best way to go about doing this. It's as simple as adding enough ferts to the tank without the worry of adding too much.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

This is my dosing schedule:
Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday
10 ml of Mono Potassium Phosphate and Potassium Sulfate plus 1/2 teaspoon Potassium Nitrate
Monday, Wednesday, Friday
10 ml of Plantex CSM+B
Sunday
Water change THEN add ferts

My original pH was 8.8. Current pH is between 7.0 and 7.2.

I have the Red Sea CO2 kit and I just tested the water. It took 2 drops to turn the solution to the end stage.

 

[Jman17H]

Do you know what your phosphate and Nitrate levels are? What is your KH?

Others have much more experience with dosing than I but I test for Phosphate & Nitrate and dose as needed. I find that often times I do not need to dose for them every week.

It however sounds like you are doing the EI method which is too much work for me and just does not make logical sense to me? Seems to me like that method wastes a lot of ferts and creates a job rather than an enjoyable hobby?

There are many differing opinions regarding why algae takes hold but one that seems to be the case is that high phospahtes leads to the blackbread and bruch algaes and low nitratres lead to others along with lack of CO2.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Yes, I am doing the EI method. It's pretty simple actually and is in no way unenjoyable or a job. I don't test for Phosphate or Nitrates but I should probably make it a habit?

Phosphate is reading between 5 and 10 ppm. Nitrate is reading between 5 and 10 ppm.

KH is 232.7.

 

[Jman17H]

Your phosphate level should be 1/10th of your nitrate level.

I always shoot for a phosphate reading of 2 and a nitrate of 20 but I also know some people shoot for 3 and 30. This ratio allows for the best growth of plants with red in them.

I had a bad brush algae issue at one point and when I finally managed to get back down to this ratio, I never had a problem again.

I try to do a water change once a month so there lies the part of the EI method that I really do not like but I can not get the over dosing and then removal. Seems to me that over time the overdosing would just grow and grow and an overabundance of some nutrients can lead to algae issues. I know the experts sue that method but it just seems illogical to me.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Perhaps it is time for more fish to up that Nitrate level? I'm not stocked to full capacity.

55 gal
4 Angels, 6 Hi Fin Serpaes, 5 True Rummies, 4 Cories, and a shrimp.

 

[rich311k]

I would up the nitrate dose a bit. Cut back on the phosphate and bump up the CO2 a little. Go slow on the CO2, you dont want to hurt the fish. Excess phosphate is not going to cause algae by it self but being that far out of wack could cause problems. BBA is almost always a CO2 issue so thats why I suggest upping it a bit more.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Which one of my ferts is increasing the Nitrates and Phosphates? I have Seachem Nitrogen that I can dose if need be.

I would look on the package but I put the ferts in air tight plastic containers labeled with the names.

Edit: Ok, that was probably a stupid question. I assume that the Mono Potassium Phosphate is increasing my phosphates and the Potassium Nitrate is increasing my Nitrates. Doh!

 

[rich311k]

That is correct.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

I am going to mix a new batch of ferts today since I have purchased newer containers. Instead of the 4 ounce bottle that takes forever to get the correct dosing amount into the top chamber I bought platic cup things with lids so its air tight. I'm down to 2 ounces in each container so I'll add more to it today. This time reducing the Phosphate and increasing the Nitrate.

 

[rkilling1]

I would have to agree with Rich, you need to get the PO4 down a little and also increase your NO3's.

In reference to the dosing bottles, are you removing the cap on the top chamber before adding your dosing fert in it? I just removed the cap and squeeze the bigger part and it fills right up.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

lol No. I never thought of that. Another "D'OH!" moment. I was shaking it like crazy until the top chamber filled up. My oh my, why didn't I think of that. Too late now. The new container is bigger and allows me to get the syringe into it for exact dosing.

Perhaps I should do a pwc today to get the phosphates down?

 

[Zezmo]

Most EI instructions talk about "dry dosing". It is much easier to figure out that way.
For a 55gal try:

Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday
1/2 tsp dry Potassium nitrate
1/8 tsp dry Mono Potassium Phosphate
1/8 tsp dry Potassium Sulfate

Monday, Wednesday, Friday
1/8 tsp of dry CSM+B or 10ml Liquid Trace Elements 3x a week

Saturday or Sunday
50% weekly water change

and of course...up the CO2 and make sure you have good circulation.