Fresh2o
Aquarium Advice Addict
< Sorry...no pictures >
Here is a description for a single bottle CO2 generating setup I am using for a planted 20g long tank. Maintenance consists of changing the yeast + sugar + water solution every 1-2 weeks.
First the ingredient and supplies followed by the setup procedure.
Basic ingredients/supplies:
1. 1 liter clear plastic bottle with lid. Anything from a water bottle, soda bottles, GatorAid, PowerAid, etc. You can use a larger bottle (2 liter) and double the ingredients in the recipe. The area where the bottles will reside near the aquarium (within a cabinet, for example) may determine the bottle size that should be used.
2. Silicone airline tubing. How much? Depends on the distance of the CO2 to the aquarium. It is commonly sold in lengths of 8' and 25'. 8' should be fine. Color? I have seen it in black and neon blue. Matter of preference.
3. Small clear plastic bottle with lid. Anywhere from 8 oz to 1 liter. This will be the bubble catcher and/or yeast trap
4. Two check valves
5. Scissors
6. Needle nose pliers
7. Drill with 3/8" drill bit
8. Dry yeast. I have seen these in the small flat packets and in small jars. For this recipe you will need 1/4-1/2 teaspoon
9. Sugar (one cup)
10. Water
11. Cooking thermometer capable of detecting 105-115 F or 40-46 C
12. 2 or 4 quart mixing bowl
13. Funnel
14. Microwave (optional)
15. Coffee cup
Hardware Setup:
1. In the lid for CO2 generating bottle drill one 3/8" hole
2. In the lid for the bubble counter drill two 3/8" holes
3. Use sharp scissors to cut the end of the silicone tubing at a sharp angle.
4. Feed the tip of the angled tube end into the CO2 generating bottle lid (from the outside to the inside or top to bottom if that makes sense)
5. Using the needle nose pliers, pull the tip of tubing through the lid with the single hole (it should be a tight fit) at least 1-2". This is the tubing that will carry CO2 from the generator to the bubble counter. You can make it as long as you need to depending on your setup; 1' should be fine.
6. Repeat steps 3 & 4 with the lid with two holes. Pull one tube about 1-2" through the hole. Pull the other tube about 6-10" through the hole (this depends on the height of the bubble counter bottle).
7. The tubing the sticks out at the top of the lid with two holes can be cut at 1" each.
8. Determine the direction of the check valves. Some are labeled with an arrow indicating the flow direction. For those check valves with a rubber core, the "pointy" end typically points to the direction of the air flow. If not labeled or if in doubt, you can test the direction of the check valve by blowing through it. Mark the direction with a Sharpie ink marker with an arrow pointing in the direction the air flows.
9. Place a check valve at the end of each of the 1" tubing that was cut in step #7. Direction of the check valve is VERY important. For the (shorter) tubing that only extends 1-2" through the lid, the arrow should be pointing AWAY from the lid. This would be the output. For the (longer) tubing that extends the length of the bubble counter bottle, the arrow should be pointing TOWARD the lid. This would be the input.
10. Connect the tubing from the CO2 generator to the check valve point TOWARD or INTO the bubble counter
11. Connect a length of tubing from the check valve pointing AWAY from or OUT of the bubble counter. This length depends on the distance from the bubble counter to where ever it is being introduced to the tank
12. Fill the bubble counter about 1/3 to 1/2 full of water
13. Screw the bubble counter bottle onto the lid with two tubes running through it. You can cut the length of the 6-10" tubing as needed so long as the tip is near the bottom of the bottle.
Yeast setup:
1. In a mixing bowl add about 3/4 of a liter or quart of hot water (warmer water dissolves the sugar faster)
2. Add one cup of sugar to the water and mix until dissolved.
3. Fill a microwave safe coffee cup about 1/4 to 1/2 full of the sugar+water solution
4. Optional: put cup in microwave for about 10 seconds. You will have to adjust this step as needed. The goal is to get the solution between 105 and 115 degree F.
5. Once the solution in the cup in within the temperature range, add 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of yeast
6. Stir the yeast vigorously with the thermometer or a spoon. The yeast will float and stick to whatever you are stirring it with. Try to remove as much as you can and place back into the solution.
7. Let this sit for 5-10 minutes to allow the yeast to activate
8. Pour the yeast solution into the CO2 generating bottle. A funnel will helpful.
9. Pour the sugar water solution from the mixing bowl into the CO2 generating bottle. *** Fill to NO MORE than 3/4 of the bottle
10. Screw the lid onto the CO2 generating bottle
11. Feed the end of the tubing that leads away from the bubble counter to the aquarium. It can be placed just below the intake of the HOB filter. I drilled a small hole into the filter intake tube near the strainer and pushed the end of the tubing in it
12. Wait for the bubbles to show up in the bubble counter. It could take several minutes to a few hours. If no bubbles are seen after a few hours there may be leaks in the system. Recheck the tightness of lids and fittings. Also make sure the check valves are pointing in the right direction.
13. If all is well then you should see bubbles in the bubble counter and bubbles flowing into the aquarium.
Notes:
How you introduce the CO2 to the tank can be accomplished several ways. I have tried regular and ceramic diffusers but eventually ended up piping it into the HOB filter intake. Regular diffusers produced coarse yet ineffective bubbles when added directly to the aquarium. Ceramic diffusers produced fine bubbles, however, it took several hours to generate enough pressure to accomplish this in a DIY setting. In a pressurized system, I would use a ceramic diffuser.
When introducing the CO2 into the HOB filter intake, it will create a distinctive gurgling noise as the bubbles are churned by the impeller. Tiny bubbles should be seen in the outflow of HOB filter. CO2 bubbles will also get trapped in the filter media. This increases the contact time between the CO2 bubbles and water. I use only floss pads in the HOB filter although regular filter media can be used.
Okay, I lied; I do have ONE picture of my DIY CO2 setup. However, this is a former dual 2 liter bottle setup that is not exactly like the one I described above. Since then I switched to dual 1 liter bottles to save space and no longer have a glass bubble counter. It cracked because of the high back pressure generated by the use of the ceramic diffuser. I just received a Fluval bubble counter from Amazon for about $4. It's small (about the size of a salt shaker) compared to the 1 liter DIY bubble counter I am currently using.
Also, I've added a generous amount of salt to the bubble counter. The idea for this is to kill off any yeast that escapes the CO2 generator bottle before they get into the aquarium. In the past I have noticed a "blob" forming at the end of the tube that the CO2 comes out of. I have a feeling that this is a buildup of yeast "escapees".
If you have gotten this far, I appreciate you taking the time to read this.
Good luck!
Here is a description for a single bottle CO2 generating setup I am using for a planted 20g long tank. Maintenance consists of changing the yeast + sugar + water solution every 1-2 weeks.
First the ingredient and supplies followed by the setup procedure.
Basic ingredients/supplies:
1. 1 liter clear plastic bottle with lid. Anything from a water bottle, soda bottles, GatorAid, PowerAid, etc. You can use a larger bottle (2 liter) and double the ingredients in the recipe. The area where the bottles will reside near the aquarium (within a cabinet, for example) may determine the bottle size that should be used.
2. Silicone airline tubing. How much? Depends on the distance of the CO2 to the aquarium. It is commonly sold in lengths of 8' and 25'. 8' should be fine. Color? I have seen it in black and neon blue. Matter of preference.
3. Small clear plastic bottle with lid. Anywhere from 8 oz to 1 liter. This will be the bubble catcher and/or yeast trap
4. Two check valves
5. Scissors
6. Needle nose pliers
7. Drill with 3/8" drill bit
8. Dry yeast. I have seen these in the small flat packets and in small jars. For this recipe you will need 1/4-1/2 teaspoon
9. Sugar (one cup)
10. Water
11. Cooking thermometer capable of detecting 105-115 F or 40-46 C
12. 2 or 4 quart mixing bowl
13. Funnel
14. Microwave (optional)
15. Coffee cup
Hardware Setup:
1. In the lid for CO2 generating bottle drill one 3/8" hole
2. In the lid for the bubble counter drill two 3/8" holes
3. Use sharp scissors to cut the end of the silicone tubing at a sharp angle.
4. Feed the tip of the angled tube end into the CO2 generating bottle lid (from the outside to the inside or top to bottom if that makes sense)
5. Using the needle nose pliers, pull the tip of tubing through the lid with the single hole (it should be a tight fit) at least 1-2". This is the tubing that will carry CO2 from the generator to the bubble counter. You can make it as long as you need to depending on your setup; 1' should be fine.
6. Repeat steps 3 & 4 with the lid with two holes. Pull one tube about 1-2" through the hole. Pull the other tube about 6-10" through the hole (this depends on the height of the bubble counter bottle).
7. The tubing the sticks out at the top of the lid with two holes can be cut at 1" each.
8. Determine the direction of the check valves. Some are labeled with an arrow indicating the flow direction. For those check valves with a rubber core, the "pointy" end typically points to the direction of the air flow. If not labeled or if in doubt, you can test the direction of the check valve by blowing through it. Mark the direction with a Sharpie ink marker with an arrow pointing in the direction the air flows.
9. Place a check valve at the end of each of the 1" tubing that was cut in step #7. Direction of the check valve is VERY important. For the (shorter) tubing that only extends 1-2" through the lid, the arrow should be pointing AWAY from the lid. This would be the output. For the (longer) tubing that extends the length of the bubble counter bottle, the arrow should be pointing TOWARD the lid. This would be the input.
10. Connect the tubing from the CO2 generator to the check valve point TOWARD or INTO the bubble counter
11. Connect a length of tubing from the check valve pointing AWAY from or OUT of the bubble counter. This length depends on the distance from the bubble counter to where ever it is being introduced to the tank
12. Fill the bubble counter about 1/3 to 1/2 full of water
13. Screw the bubble counter bottle onto the lid with two tubes running through it. You can cut the length of the 6-10" tubing as needed so long as the tip is near the bottom of the bottle.
Yeast setup:
1. In a mixing bowl add about 3/4 of a liter or quart of hot water (warmer water dissolves the sugar faster)
2. Add one cup of sugar to the water and mix until dissolved.
3. Fill a microwave safe coffee cup about 1/4 to 1/2 full of the sugar+water solution
4. Optional: put cup in microwave for about 10 seconds. You will have to adjust this step as needed. The goal is to get the solution between 105 and 115 degree F.
5. Once the solution in the cup in within the temperature range, add 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of yeast
6. Stir the yeast vigorously with the thermometer or a spoon. The yeast will float and stick to whatever you are stirring it with. Try to remove as much as you can and place back into the solution.
7. Let this sit for 5-10 minutes to allow the yeast to activate
8. Pour the yeast solution into the CO2 generating bottle. A funnel will helpful.
9. Pour the sugar water solution from the mixing bowl into the CO2 generating bottle. *** Fill to NO MORE than 3/4 of the bottle
10. Screw the lid onto the CO2 generating bottle
11. Feed the end of the tubing that leads away from the bubble counter to the aquarium. It can be placed just below the intake of the HOB filter. I drilled a small hole into the filter intake tube near the strainer and pushed the end of the tubing in it
12. Wait for the bubbles to show up in the bubble counter. It could take several minutes to a few hours. If no bubbles are seen after a few hours there may be leaks in the system. Recheck the tightness of lids and fittings. Also make sure the check valves are pointing in the right direction.
13. If all is well then you should see bubbles in the bubble counter and bubbles flowing into the aquarium.
Notes:
How you introduce the CO2 to the tank can be accomplished several ways. I have tried regular and ceramic diffusers but eventually ended up piping it into the HOB filter intake. Regular diffusers produced coarse yet ineffective bubbles when added directly to the aquarium. Ceramic diffusers produced fine bubbles, however, it took several hours to generate enough pressure to accomplish this in a DIY setting. In a pressurized system, I would use a ceramic diffuser.
When introducing the CO2 into the HOB filter intake, it will create a distinctive gurgling noise as the bubbles are churned by the impeller. Tiny bubbles should be seen in the outflow of HOB filter. CO2 bubbles will also get trapped in the filter media. This increases the contact time between the CO2 bubbles and water. I use only floss pads in the HOB filter although regular filter media can be used.
Okay, I lied; I do have ONE picture of my DIY CO2 setup. However, this is a former dual 2 liter bottle setup that is not exactly like the one I described above. Since then I switched to dual 1 liter bottles to save space and no longer have a glass bubble counter. It cracked because of the high back pressure generated by the use of the ceramic diffuser. I just received a Fluval bubble counter from Amazon for about $4. It's small (about the size of a salt shaker) compared to the 1 liter DIY bubble counter I am currently using.
Also, I've added a generous amount of salt to the bubble counter. The idea for this is to kill off any yeast that escapes the CO2 generator bottle before they get into the aquarium. In the past I have noticed a "blob" forming at the end of the tube that the CO2 comes out of. I have a feeling that this is a buildup of yeast "escapees".
If you have gotten this far, I appreciate you taking the time to read this.
Good luck!
I used something that you use to run multiple air lines that has on/off knobs
