Fuge Design - Input and Comments

[r95rdstr]

Below is a pic of a 40 gallon long that I'm partitioning for a refugium. Before I install the baffles, I'd like to know what everyone thinks of the design.

Here's some more relvant info on the system. It's going to be running under a 125 gallon FOWLR that will have it's own 4" DSB. I'm running a Mag-Drive 2400, so I'm guessing the return flow rate is going to be roughly 1500 gph. The skimmer is running a Rio 2500 at 750 gph. I put the skimmer first because of the micro bubble problem. The baffle placement is designed, at least hopefully, to elimate as many micro bubbles as possible before the water arrives at the return pump.

I plan on building it in a couple days, so any input and suggestions for improvements are greatly appreciated.

 

[r95rdstr]

Opps, sorry for the duplicate attachment.

 

[cmor1701d]

Nice design. Where are you placing the fuge relative to the main tank?
Why do you show the water level at different heights within the fuge. When balanced won't the level be constant throughout the fuge?

 

[sumphead]

I recommend making the fuge as large as possible inside your sump. A 40 Long is a great tank for such projects.

 

[astride13]

From my experiences with fuges, here is my input.

I would decrease the size of the area where the pump is and increase the size of fuge area. The pump doesn't need much of a buffer because on a fuge the water flow should be slower than a sump.

I like the idea of the third baffle, or the first on on the left of the fuge part. Do you intend that to keep the surface scum from reentering the tank?

I would also move some of the live rock to the chamber where you show the skimmer and leave more room for the macros to grow.

 

[scuba_steve]

if you have room i would make the 40 just ya fuge and buy a $5 rubbermade tub for ya sump and equipment

 

[captivereefs]

I would put one more baffle on the intake side to help with micro bubbles.

 

[r95rdstr]

Thanks for all of the input, guys! Now, to reply all of your inputs:

The fuge will be directly under the stand, and all designs I've seen have lowering level from water input towards the output. Only the water level in the last chamber, the sump, will constantly vary due to evaporation.

The reason the sump is so large is to allow more room for evaporation, and therefore longer intervals between the required fresh water top offs. I'm sometimes away from home for a few days, so a larger sump works better. I'm also going to be running a DSB and LR in the main tank, so fuge size and bio filitration in it aren't so critical. The main purpose of the fuge is for aestetics in the main tank. One corner overflow and a few return water jets just slightly poking in at the water line, will be the only clutter in the main tank. The fuge will keep powerheads, heaters, etc out of sight. The secondary purpose of the fuge is to house critters unfit for the main tank, and to harvest some macro algae for the tangs to much on. Unlike reef tanks, FOWLR tanks aren't as senstive to the larger changes in salinity resulting from less frequent and therefore larger fresh water top offs, so I have and can get away with this. I also plan on running a 500 water heater, which is prettly long, in the sump area.

The third and fifth baffles, located from the left, are to catch and contain the micro bubbles coming from the previous chambers. The skimmer plus the waterfall from the fuge to the sump will make alot of bubbles. The bubble containment baffles should hopefully catch the bubbles within, allowing them to surface and diffuse, insteading of passing on.

The LR in the skimmer chamber is a great idea, and I now plan on using it. The bottom of the skimmer will be on a stand, several inches from the bottom of the 40. This leaves plenty of room for rock. The skimmer output will also generate highly oxygenated water for the bacteria on the rock to thrive, another bonus. Again, excellent idea and thanks.

Everything will be contained within the 40, for sake of simplicity, and less chance of leaks.

 

[fishfreek]

If you put a diagonal baffle on the left. Making a sort of chamber for the drain line to dran into. Then it can flow over into the skimmer compartment.

I agree with the maximum size for the fuge component. Maybe leave room in your stand for a 5 gal autotop off device. Basicly a 5 gal bucket or tub with a line attached to it that drips into the tank with a floatvalve that only opens when the water level drops in the sump portion.

With the surface area of teh 125 and the 40 under the tank I would not be supprised if you did not lose 2 or 2 1/2 gals a day just from evaporation.

 

[jamal-188]

I"m still figuring out how to build a fuge/sump out of my 50g rubbermaid and just don't understand the design despite reading a few books/sites. Does it matter how big the gap is between the bottom and the baffles that force the water to go under them, or the distance between each baffle?

 

[Pain Devine]

I'm confused. Why do you even need a baffle if there's not bio-balls/filter? Why not just mount the pump at the minimum water level line?

 

[jamal-188]

I'm confused. Why do you even need a baffle if there's not bio-balls/filter? Why not just mount the pump at the minimum water level line?

I think pretty much the only reason for baffles is to get rid of bubbles.

 

[Pain Devine]

The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain.

Scotty -- U.S.S. Enterprise

 

[astride13]