Goldfish HELP!!!

[POP]

I just got 3 new fresh water goldfishes and they are staying at the bottom of the tank, Swimming very little, I have 2 other old fishes that are doing the same as well. Yesterday I did a ich treatment and overdose by accident, killing like 8 fishes, so I put back the carbon for the filter and did a water change. Whats wrong?

i have a 20G tank, A filter, I used Stresss Coat + and Water Conditioner.

 

[XxNoobxX]

It happened to me once and my poor fishy died I don't know why.. Sorry for not giving info probably they were already sick..

 

[Alyxx]

How many goldfish are in this tank, and what kinds? Also, do you have a test kit for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? I don't want to come off as rude, but a 20 gallon is the bare minimum for one fancy goldfish, so you are definitely overstocked just with the two new fish. Goldfish are messy and they can get really big, so they need a lit of water and space to live a healthy life. In general, 20 gallons for the first fancy goldfish and 10 more gallons for each additional goldfish is the minimum requirements, along with extra filtration. What is probably causing the symptoms you are seeing is ammonia and other toxins in the water. How often do you do water changes, and how much do you change each time? Has this tank been cycled? Also, do any fish still have ich? How long has the tank been running?

 

[POP]

How many goldfish are in this tank, and what kinds? Also, do you have a test kit for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? I don't want to come off as rude, but a 20 gallon is the bare minimum for one fancy goldfish, so you are definitely overstocked just with the two new fish. Goldfish are messy and they can get really big, so they need a lit of water and space to live a healthy life. In general, 20 gallons for the first fancy goldfish and 10 more gallons for each additional goldfish is the minimum requirements, along with extra filtration. What is probably causing the symptoms you are seeing is ammonia and other toxins in the water. How often do you do water changes, and how much do you change each time? Has this tank been cycled? Also, do any fish still have ich? How long has the tank been running?

I have five fishes right now, I do not have a test kit, about 2-7 weeks now. 2 Comet Goldfish and 3 Shubunkin Goldfish. At the moment, I dont think are have ich anymore.

 

[Alyxx]

I have five fishes right now, I do not have a test kit, about 2-7 weeks now. 2 Comet Goldfish and 3 Shubunkin Goldfish. At the moment, I dont think are have ich anymore.

Ok, I hate to tell you this but none of those fish do well in aquariums. They are pond fish really - they can get over a foot long! 55 gallons is the minimum for even one comet or shubunkin. It's a shame that stores sell these fish without even mentioning their requirements or countering the very false idea that goldfish can live in bowls or tiny tanks. The only long term solutions are to rehome the fish to a pond, build a pond, return them to the store, or buy a massive tank. I'm talking like 200 gallons massive. I also highly recommend that you get a test kit so you can monitor your cycle. There are great articles on this site about cycling your tank. You will want to read up on fish in cycles since that is what is happening in your tank right now. I would start doing at least a 50% water change daily until you can get a test kit, then you can use the tests to gauge how much water you need to be changing and how often.

 

[POP]

Ok, I hate to tell you this but none of those fish do well in aquariums. They are pond fish really - they can get over a foot long! 55 gallons is the minimum for even one comet or shubunkin. It's a shame that stores sell these fish without even mentioning their requirements or countering the very false idea that goldfish can live in bowls or tiny tanks. The only long term solutions are to rehome the fish to a pond, build a pond, return them to the store, or buy a massive tank. I'm talking like 200 gallons massive. I also highly recommend that you get a test kit so you can monitor your cycle. There are great articles on this site about cycling your tank. You will want to read up on fish in cycles since that is what is happening in your tank right now. I would start doing at least a 50% water change daily until you can get a test kit, then you can use the tests to gauge how much water you need to be changing and how often.

I will tell you something, not trying to break anyone heart but I dont even think most people can even have then for that long, have them to be 10".

 

[POP]

Ok, I hate to tell you this but none of those fish do well in aquariums. They are pond fish really - they can get over a foot long! 55 gallons is the minimum for even one comet or shubunkin. It's a shame that stores sell these fish without even mentioning their requirements or countering the very false idea that goldfish can live in bowls or tiny tanks. The only long term solutions are to rehome the fish to a pond, build a pond, return them to the store, or buy a massive tank. I'm talking like 200 gallons massive. I also highly recommend that you get a test kit so you can monitor your cycle. There are great articles on this site about cycling your tank. You will want to read up on fish in cycles since that is what is happening in your tank right now. I would start doing at least a 50% water change daily until you can get a test kit, then you can use the tests to gauge how much water you need to be changing and how often.

What are good aquarium fishes?

 

[Alyxx]

You can do one fancy type goldfish (the egg shaped ones with double tails) in a 20 gallon by itself, or you could add a heater and do tropical fish. There are tons of fish that do well in a 20 gallon. Guppies, many kinds of tetras, Cory catfish - there are tons of options. Most small tropical fish.

 

[POP]

You can do one fancy type goldfish (the egg shaped ones with double tails) in a 20 gallon by itself, or you could add a heater and do tropical fish. There are tons of fish that do well in a 20 gallon. Guppies, many kinds of tetras, Cory catfish - there are tons of options. Most small tropical fish.

Now I have another problem. So I just feed my fishes and the 3 new goldfishes ate the food but most of the time, their fins were down (top fin), the other 2 didnt eat, but their fins are up and they fins are coming off. Should I put aquarium salt or throw the fish away before it makes the water more bad? But the way, cleaned the water like an hour before feeding AND cleaned it in the morning. About 20%

 

[Alyxx]

I would do a big water change and maybe add a little salt.

 

[POP]

I would do a big water change and maybe add a little salt.

So I have added 1 teaspoon or 1 Spoon IDK :/. Do the fish fins mean anything, when its up and when its down? And do I have to add salt every time I change the water?

 

[Alyxx]

Salt doesn't evaporate so just add back the percentage you removed with a water change - if you change half of the water add back half a teaspoon. Always dissolve the salt in some tank water before you put it in their tank, too. The salt crystals can burn them if they touch them or try to eat them. And if they are holding their fins clamped to their body it is usually a sign of stress or illness.

 

[POP]

Salt doesn't evaporate so just add back the percentage you removed with a water change - if you change half of the water add back half a teaspoon. Always dissolve the salt in some tank water before you put it in their tank, too. The salt crystals can burn them if they touch them or try to eat them. And if they are holding their fins clamped to their body it is usually a sign of stress or illness.

What should I do when their top fins are down?

 

[Alyxx]

It could be an indication that they could use a water change. You really need a test kit to check the toxin levels in the tank.

 

[POP]

It could be an indication that they could use a water change. You really need a test kit to check the toxin levels in the tank.

Whats a good test kit? And what if 1 of those levels are high? Am I gonna have to waste money on buying the treatment? What brand should I buy?

 

[Alyxx]

The treatment is a water change. You just have to remove it manually and add clean water until yhe tank cycles, then you just need to keep an eye on your nitrates and remove those with water changes. Nitrates aren't as toxic as ammonia and nitrite are, but once the cycle is complete the bacteria in your tank take care of those two and turn them into nitrates. The API master kit is great. Don't get test strips - they aren't very accurate. Get the kind with liquids and test tubes.

 

[POP]

The treatment is a water change. You just have to remove it manually and add clean water until yhe tank cycles, then you just need to keep an eye on your nitrates and remove those with water changes. Nitrates aren't as toxic as ammonia and nitrite are, but once the cycle is complete the bacteria in your tank take care of those two and turn them into nitrates. The API master kit is great. Don't get test strips - they aren't very accurate. Get the kind with liquids and test tubes.

So is this what you are saying, You think API master kit is great and if my levels are high, Just do water changes until levels are good. And what do you mean by "Once the cycle is complete"

 

[Alyxx]

Your tank is undergoing a process known as cycling. Your fish excrete ammonia, which is toxic. There is a bacteria that will colonize in your filter and substrate that "eats" ammonia and excretes nitrite, which is also toxic. A second bacteria will colonize that turns the nitrite into nitrate, which is still toxic but at much higher concentrations than ammonia or nitrite are toxic. Fish can tolerate much higher concentrations of nitrate then they can of the other two. We remove nitrates through weekly water changes. It takes time for these bacterias to colonize, though. So when you have fish in a cycling tank it is important to monitor the levels to be able to know when you need to change the water to keep these toxins in a safe range. There are some excellent articles on this site on cycling and I really recommend giving them a read. I'd link them but I am on the app. They are linked in a sticky on the freshwater getting started section of the forum.

 

[POP]

Your tank is undergoing a process known as cycling. Your fish excrete ammonia, which is toxic. There is a bacteria that will colonize in your filter and substrate that "eats" ammonia and excretes nitrite, which is also toxic. A second bacteria will colonize that turns the nitrite into nitrate, which is still toxic but at much higher concentrations than ammonia or nitrite are toxic. Fish can tolerate much higher concentrations of nitrate then they can of the other two. We remove nitrates through weekly water changes. It takes time for these bacterias to colonize, though. So when you have fish in a cycling tank it is important to monitor the levels to be able to know when you need to change the water to keep these toxins in a safe range. There are some excellent articles on this site on cycling and I really recommend giving them a read. I'd link them but I am on the app. They are linked in a sticky on the freshwater getting started section of the forum.

Ok, this is what I did. I have returned my 3 new fishes back and got a test kit. When I got back, 1 of my old fishes died. So I have 1 more. What are the things you want me to check?

 

[Alyxx]

Everything - ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph. Have you read the cycling articles yet?

Be sure to shake all of the little bottles well before using them, especially the nitrate bottles. Shake it for a minute or two since the reagent is in suspension and it will settle to the bottom of the bottle between uses.

Sorry you lost one of your fish. Hopefully things will start lookibg up for your remaining fish. When you have the results, post them here.