You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Recent content by McQuirk
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
It's been about two weeks, and I haven't had any more losses. My heat is still up, the water level is still dropped, and there's still the air stone in place. Questions, though:
1. The blenny seems to really like the warm water. It's probably around 86 right now. I have a kuhli loach and a...
I know we don't sell kH kits at my store, but I may swing by PetSmart this weekend and see if I can pick up a kit there. If I dose Flourish Excel and regular Flourish, would that help keep the plants from pulling from it?
@Spiketooth: I've never tested for that. I didn't even know there was a test...I'm sure its high, though. Indy water is disgusting.
ETA: That being said...if this tank was stable for quite some time, and I haven't really changed the water apart from a few gallons of R/O here and there, why...
None of the above. The skin looks torn, jagged on the edges, and then directly underneath there are vertical red lines. It's hard to get a picture of her- she's never liked when I approach the tank and spends a lot of time inside of my driftwood, especially now that she's the only gudgeon left...
My peacock gudgeon has developed a reddish white spot on her side- it's vertical streaks of red, but the skin on top actually looks white. Only thing I can think of is septicemia, but that's pretty minimal ammonia to have caused it?
ETA: I saw her from a different angle and the skin...
See, I'm pretty convinced it could be partly my readings, because this morning I tested for nitrates, and it read at what I've always considered to be 30 (just a little above what it will normally read, just a shade or two darker than 20). Ammonia was also .25. Hmph. Time for another water...
Tap looks more red. Tap levels for ammonia have always read between .25-.50, but it doesn't take very long at all for my tank to bring those down to 0- within a couple of hours. It's public water. They (as in my county) recently switched from ammonia to ammonium, so I'm not sure if that is...
Well...since there are no spots on any of the fish, how long should I keep up the heat? And how often is "frequent"? My usual twice-a-week; less? More?
I did a 25% w/c, lowered the water level about 1/2" from the top, and added an aerator. It's only meant for up to 10g, but I don't really want...
Oh, I forgot to add- I put around 3 tablespoons of salt in there, the same day I started medicating. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it.
I have not. To be honest, I use such little R/O (they've always done fine with tap) and do such frequent water changes that I can typically guess where the pH is going to be. I don't test for it very frequently.
There /shouldn't/ still be any medicine in the tank. I ran carbon for a few days...
I have a 20g high, moderately planted tank. I use tap and some R/O, and treat with Seachem Prime. My heater is set to 80 degrees. I run an AquaClear 30 and a Penguin 150. Instead of carbon, I have Purigen and an empty cartridge in the Penguin, and two bags of biomax with a sponge in the...
Oh, okay. I was just curious because my LFS has a whole bunch of duckweed right now that's red in the middle and then green on the edges. They aren't sure what it is exactly. I'll pick up regular duckweed though (: I'm going back either tomorrow or Tuesday.