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Do you plan on keeping it in the long run? I would be cautious with my fish selections with them in the tank. I would not recommend cycling it with any inhabitants.

Agreed that's what I use I tired the Red Sea kit but it was a pain I didn't like the powder ammonia reagent and IMO the scales were hard to differentiate.

I would for sure invest in a good test kit before putting any fish in the tank.

Looks really good so far. When the cycle is complete you should see those numbers, don't worry about PWCs during the cycle just do a big one after to get the nitrates down. As far as the heater either go with a 200w or 2 100w for redundancy and more even heating of the tank.

I too use the API FW master kit and strangely my kit only goes down to .25ppm (well and 0ppm of course). You probably are fine with it I was just stating that is border line and I would feel more comfortable have it at zero to have more of a safety buffer in case things went haywire. As far as...

Bio-Elite FAQ Nitrogen and Fish I'm pretty sure if the nitrite level was 1ppm you would have some very unhealthy fish. As far as the stocking that would be fine I figured maybe it was for pairing purposes but they would definitely be happier in a 55.

I would have to disagree in an established tank the nitrate consuming bacteria should consume the nitrite instantly as it is produced. In fact the only thing to keep the nitrafying bacteria from continuing its growth is the lack of food (nitrite). Also keep in mind the .01ppm nitrite is...

Nitrites should be zero in an established properly stocked tank. As far as medicines I'm not sure which would be best I'll let one of the experts field that.

I think that would work fine and would be easy and cheap, I would say go that route.

I would bump up the water changes just in case, how long has the tank been established? The nitrite is even more poisonous for the fish than ammonia, I would try to get it to zero asap.

Did you remove the top from the salt shaker? I hear leaving it on can cause cloudiness.:p:laugh::laugh::laugh:

I would not practice this I would just set up another tank for crawfish it seems like it would be cruel to them.

Pretty much whatever is available for you will work they will all work fine for the application.

If you say take 50 gallons of water at 1.026 salinity out of a 100 gallon tank you add back 50 gallons at 1.026 that way in theory the salinity should be exactly the same. Does that help?

You really know your valves, you a plumber?

8 months as the OP said further up.

It's not a matter of what they can "live" in, they may survive being that cramped but there quality of life will be greatly reduced. If forced to live in such cramped conditions it will actually stunt the growth of the fish permanently. Also ignoring the extreme overstocking you have fish...

That tank is way too small for the amount of fish, the clown loach alone can grow to over 14inches and like to be in groups of at least 3 or 4. The parrot cichlids can grow to around 8inches and are very fat making there bioload even higher. The pictus catfish grows to about 5inches and also...

What size tank are they in? Do you a mean a parrot cichlid? The swollen belly could be bloat from overfeeding catfish are egg layers so it couldn't be pregnant but it's possible that its swollen with eggs.

Yeah that's fine with me.

Ok will do.

Is this the 55 that you will be cycling? If so add 2 uncooked shrimp to start the cycle.

Sounds good it was all in fun anyway.

I'm not sure I don't think it notifies them. As far as the cycling kit I would save the money and just do a fishless cycle.

That should be fine.