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Despite the jerk tendencies, I absolutely love the personality and swimming style of the sharks so I'd probably move the cories to another tank if it came down to choosing between them. Fingers crossed delaying the shark's introduction and the extensive cave/tunnel systems I have planned will...

So would the cories be a no-go then, or do you think it would work with all the hiding areas? AqAdvisor didn't flag the cories and shark as being an issue together, but I remember my RTBS being a bit of a stinker.

I'm upgrading and overhauling my tank and am planning out the new stocking plan for the larger space. New tank will either be a 65g with a 29g sump or an all-in-one tank/sump combo like a Waterbox 100.3 or similar. I've sanity checked my stocking plan in AqAdvisor, but wanted to run it by people...

Excellent! That's great to hear that it's been successfully done and is actually encouraged by an experienced Rainbow keeper! I'm pretty sure I haven't had a 3:1 ratio F/M ratio so far since I've only been able to get them early enough they can't be sexed, and then they've turned out too male...

I already have 11 full grown rainbows in my tank, with a mix of boys and girls (it's a random mix of species though, anywhere between 1-4 of any one type). They mate all the time without any help from me. No babies have ever been seen, likely because they eat the eggs themselves, plus any fry...

Random thought, but has anyone done a boys-only tank of Rainbows before? I know bachelor tanks of guppies and Wrasses (in saltwater tanks) are standard practices (to reduce babies in the case of guppies, to reduce aggression for the wrasses since all the girls turn into boys and cause dominance...

Yep, I've seen those before. Sadly with how good an escape artist Bichir are, any sort of gap at the bottom is effectively the same as having no barrier at all. Since the tetras and rainbows tend to be more towards the surface, they'd be the only ones the barrier would work on :(

Hmm, my only concern with trying a divider is that if he finds a way to bypass it (over the top, under, etc) then the fish are trapped in an even smaller area and are even more at risk. Plus the aquascape is kinda tricky to put a divider through due to the placement of all the live plants...

My Delhezi Bichir was previously more than happy to eat beefheart, silver sides, and black worms, but recently has gone on a hunger strike... I spoiled him with some live pest crabs that I caught in my saltwater tank and he managed to snag a couple of my Congo Tetras that didn't quite grow...

Doing it all at once is probably the only feasible option. I second the mention that you shouldn't cap the soil with gravel as the gravel is going to end up at the bottom sooner rather than later. The second you try to move a plant or plant something new the layers will start mixing. I've never...

2 standard T5s or the 2 T5HOs like I already have? I'd honestly prefer starting with lower lighting and upping it as needed if the plants seem to be suffering since the lower lighting is usually cheaper and it's a whole lot harder to stop algae after it's gotten a foothold... Nutrient rich...

I'm swapping my high light/mid tech 75g over to low light/low tech soon, but I'm not sure what light to use in the new setup. Currently I have a dual T5HO fixture as well as the stock single bulb T8 strip light (all running 6500K bulbs in their respective formats). The new plantings will be...

That video is so cool! Thanks! From talking with the folks at Wet Web Media who posted the DSB article I linked earlier, it sounds like Bichir don't dig nearly as much as I thought they might, so a 3"+ sand bed shouldn't be an issue :D I understand why people like duckweed, but I can't stand...

Yes, I'll absolutely be happy to share the results! This sort of experiment intrigues me, so I think it's worth a shot! I'll stick to the 3" recommended by the article since it sounds like Bichirs tend to be diggers and I wouldn't want the bed deep enough that my bichir could do itself serious...

Wow, that's lots of super helpful info! Thanks! I like the DSB idea better than a plenum. Populating it with mulm & nutrients will be pretty easy since the tank has been running for many years so there will naturally be a good amount in there when I'm swapping the substrate around :) How deep a...

Oooo, I like the deep sand bed idea. Does that work in freshwater tanks like it does in saltwater? My only concern is that I worry I'd accidentally release some toxic gas if I have to mess with the sand for planting, dosing with root tabs, or when a fish digs. Sounds like the consensus is...

Feeding the tank each day is easy to keep up with, it's the rest of the maintenance that's wearing me out. My main concern with a predator-only tank with no mid/high level swimming fish is that the tank would be fairly inactive other than when the predators are foraging/hunting. I like there to...

Alas, an open top tank is not an option for a couple of reasons... Bichirs are massive escape artists, plus I have 4 cats that would love to try their paws at fishing ;) I'm not sure the chinese evergreen houseplants would appreciate my kitties either, as 2 of them even try to eat any fake...

Sadly biotope stocking has never appealed to me. I understand the appeal for others, but I'm picky about what fish I like and what ones I find "boring". A biotope plan would mean filling half the tank with fish that I don't have any interest in, which isn't fair to them or me since an...

Thanks for the input! I'm not adverse to doing large water changes when I actually do the water changes. I have a python setup so the difference between 50% water change to 75% is just a matter of waiting around for a little longer between swapping the siphon direction. The problem I'm running...

I've been running my high light/mid tech (dose ferts and use liquid carbon instead of CO2 injection) 75g planted community tank for the last 5+ years. I like the tank, but the 50% weekly water changes and plant trimmings are getting a bit too time/energy consuming now that I'm pregnant with our...

Agreed with 54seaweed, 2.5g is too small for a frog. They're very messy eaters and will easily throw your water parameters out of whack in such a small space. A 5g can work if you're very careful about cleaning it regularly and not letting uneaten food rot, but the 10g would be much better and...

Aw geez, I feel kinda awful now. I just realized why the babies are sticking to one area rather than exploring the tank. I've been leaving the food bag propped up next to the tank... They think Mommy's there!