I have a fluval canister filter that is a pain in the *** to clean, because i apparently am not doing it incorrectly. Every time i do clean it, i wind up with lots of dirty water on the floor and also the intake valves every where except where they belong. I am looking to get a new hang on back filter that has a UV sterilization for my aquarium that works for a 55 gal aquarium any advice on which one to get would be helpful.
best filter
- Thread starter Keletha
- Start date
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The only HOBs with UV that I know of are sold by AquaTop (www.TruAqua.com) but they are nowhere near powerful enough to replace a canister.
There are also in-tank UV units that you attach to a power head but that will ugly up your tank.
I don't have a Fluval canister but once a month I take my SunSuns out to the garage to clean them so if I do make a mess it doesn't matter. Find a place where a little spillage won't matter, back porch, garage, bath tub, shower, etc.
There are also in-tank UV units that you attach to a power head but that will ugly up your tank.
I don't have a Fluval canister but once a month I take my SunSuns out to the garage to clean them so if I do make a mess it doesn't matter. Find a place where a little spillage won't matter, back porch, garage, bath tub, shower, etc.
Cynic
Aquarium Advice Addict
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- Dec 13, 2011
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Buy an Eheim Classic. Best canister filter you'll ever buy and am utter breeze to clean.
i unplug the filter when i began cleaning my aquairum and then after im done i plug it back in, it does not auto start so it has to be primed by the pump. if this is done incorrectly which most often times i do it that way, i will have tons of water all over the floor. I have read many articles with people saying how wonderful canisters are, but fluval is not one in the category that is easy to restart once it is unplugged.
Not sure what model you have, but do you close the IN valve first, then OUT valve upon disassembling the filter? Once clean and filter assembled, open OUT first, then IN valve? It should begin to siphon from the filled input tube and exhaust air through OUT hoses; you'll probably see bubble come out through spray bar. I have Rena canisters and only get a small amount of water when I disconnect mine.
i dont get small amounts of water, i get tons of water all over the floor which = pain in my arse, and i am beginning to dislike this fluval canister filter more and more which makes me want to buy a hang on back filter
I'm sorry your frustrated, but without more information on what valve(s) your opening and closing and order in which they are done, I can't really help. Most, if not all, canisters have shut off valves where they meet the filter. It is VERY important that these be opened and closed at proper intervals in order to keep yourself dry. Some models, like my Rena's, have a single switch which shuts off both the IN/OUT tubes. This makes it even easier.
Here is the link to fluval filter manualhttp://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/Fluval_series5_manual.pdf . I dont know if you want to read over the manual but either way this filter is going to be banished soon from my aquarium and i again am looking for recommendations for a hang on back filter that anyone can recommend thats wonderful for a 55 gal tank.
I will simply ask the petstore personnell or do more deep searching on the web because i no longer want to fight with my canister filter because its a pain to work with, and im not sure if im conveying the message that I NO LONGER WILL USE THIS FILTER IN MY AQUARIUM.
I have a 206 fluval canister.
It has 2 levers on the canister where the hoses attach.
One is the aqua stop valve which stops any water returning through the hoses.
The second is the hose release lever.
I turn off my filter, lift the aqua stop valve which stops any return water from flooding your floor. Then release the hoses using the main lever.
On mine the aqua stop valve is grey and the hose release lever is red.
The manual you have linked to shows a very similar system with the aqua stop valve.
Are you just removing them in the wrong order?
Jon
It has 2 levers on the canister where the hoses attach.
One is the aqua stop valve which stops any water returning through the hoses.
The second is the hose release lever.
I turn off my filter, lift the aqua stop valve which stops any return water from flooding your floor. Then release the hoses using the main lever.
On mine the aqua stop valve is grey and the hose release lever is red.
The manual you have linked to shows a very similar system with the aqua stop valve.
Are you just removing them in the wrong order?
Jon
Keletha said:
Ok then. Look into AquaClear HOBs. Super simple to maintain. Ask the LFS guy which one he would use and then pick the next largest one (because the LFS guy is going to be wrong).
You will lose the silence of the canister, there is no way around that.
Also, don't throw your canister media away. If you have any biomedia in it keep it wet and add it to your new HOB.
Fresh2o
Aquarium Advice Addict
Most of the noise from the AC will come from the water splashing but there is also a low, discernible hum from the motor. It is much quieter than an Emperor 280 I am running.
Anyhow, there might be a way to reduce the splash by creating a lip extension out of the plastic strip that comes with hinged glass tops. Involves cutting, heating and bending. Have done this for the old Whisper HOBs. Planning on doing this soon so I'll post the details when I can.
Anyhow, there might be a way to reduce the splash by creating a lip extension out of the plastic strip that comes with hinged glass tops. Involves cutting, heating and bending. Have done this for the old Whisper HOBs. Planning on doing this soon so I'll post the details when I can.
