Buying a CO2 Injection System

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

bflem

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
33
Location
Pennsylvania
I need some advice.

I have upgraded to a 125 gallon aquarium recently. My plan was to have a moderate light planted tank. I have two 36" Finnex Planted+ 24/7 lights. I was only going to do DIY CO2 until this morning. I found out that my well water combined with the rocks in my tank puts my pH around 7.8 - 8.0. Rather than adding chemicals to lower the pH I decided I might as well go all in and get a CO2 system (kill two birds with one stone). I have looked into a few but I wanted to know if this one seems reasonable.


GLA GRO-1 CO2 Regulator


  • Industrial regulator body
  • Custom precision GLA needle valve
  • Pro-class solenoid valve with ‘cool touch’ technology keeps the solenoid cool to the touch during operation
  • Custom GLA bubble counter with advanced filtration and check valve to protect internal components of regulator
  • Professional quality pneumatic components
  • Forged brass and die cast for durability and accurate machining
  • Dual gauge (tank volume and working pressure)
  • No end-of-tank dumps
  • We are confident that our GRO-series GLA CO2 regulators rise above and outlast the competition
  • The innovative modular manifold, allows the user to add manifold blocks with ease, and expand CO2 supply, independently, to up to 5 aquariums
  • Our GRO-series regulators can adapt to the expansion of your aquarium system, allowing you to use one regulator for multiple tanks
  • Our CO2 experts build each regulator to order and provide longterm customer care for each regulator shipped out
  • Custom built, pressure tested, and leak tested in the USA

  • Installation: CGA-320 threads
  • Output Pressure Gauge: 0 - 60 PSI
  • Tank / High Pressure Gauge: 0 - 2000 PSI
  • Integral PRV: Pressure Relief Valve releases at 51 - 53 PSI
  • 6 foot electrical cord
Milwaukee MC122 PH Controller

The Milwaukee MC122 pH Controller allows you to monitor pH and maintain desired CO2 levels in your aquarium. The MC122 is designed to connect to the solenoid of your CO2 regulator. It regulates the release of carbon dioxide, which is directly related to pH. Once a desired pH is set, the controller will signal the solenoid valve to prompt the CO2 regulator to stop releasing or to release more CO2 in order to maintain the set pH.

  • Range: 0.0 ~ 14.0PH
  • Accuracy: ±0.2PH
  • Resolution: 0.1PH
  • User selectable Hi/Low Set Point
  • Manual 2 point calibration
  • Double junction pH electrode with 2m cable (BNC connector)
  • Alarm indicates when reading is higher/lower than set point
  • Power Supply: 12 VDC
CO2 Cylinder + Check Valve + Permaseal + CO2 Tubing



  • Select a 5lb, 10lb or 15lb aluminum CO2 cylinder. Cylinder ships empty.
  • Check valve permits flow in one direction only.
  • Brass permaseal provides a permanent seal for the connection between your CO2 regulator and cylinder.
  • CO2 resistant, high pressure rated tubing. This is not silicone tubing, with our tubing no CO2 will be wasted. Quantity: 10 feet
 
All that sounds great, consider a larger tank as you'll be using a good bit of gas. Consider an inline or in tank reactor to maximize saturation

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Aquarium Advice mobile app
 
An inline reactor attaches to the filter return correct? And the other option would be a diffuser mounted in the tank? I have read that the inlines are more efficient but I don't know if I have space in the cabinet for an inline reactor. Do you have any idea how much gas I will be using? I don't have the slightest clue as to how long a 5lbs or 10lbs tank would last.
 
An inline reactor attaches to the filter return correct? And the other option would be a diffuser mounted in the tank? I have read that the inlines are more efficient but I don't know if I have space in the cabinet for an inline reactor. Do you have any idea how much gas I will be using? I don't have the slightest clue as to how long a 5lbs or 10lbs tank would last.

You will get more bang for your buck with an inline diffuser. You can build one pretty easy.

I have a 5lb tank on my 4og. It should last me about 6 months and I have it cranked pretty high.

Here is a pic of my inline reactor I built
WmMqtFd.jpg


In my thread you can see the step by step I did to build it.
 
A Cerges reactor does a good job. I used a clear water filter housing and some PVC. A little more expensive to build than a Rex Brigg, but worth it IMO.

Sent from my BN NookHD+ using Tapatalk
 
I ended up buying the Atomic inline diffuser. It looks pretty small and should fit well. Does anybody know if I need to slowly increase the CO2 when I get it installed or can I just start pumping it out to reach 30 ppm? My pH is high so I don't want that to drop too quickly and shock my fish. What is proper protocol when installing a new system?
 
As with anything, I would start out slow and ramp it up over time. I don't have a reactor (diffuser under the filter intake). I watch the drop checker and try to get a lime green color during the day. I also keep an eye on fish behavior as well (checking for gasping).
One word of caution with the fine adjustment knob with some regulators. These can be tricky and the response from the bubble may be lagging. Don't make a change just before a period of time you will be away.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
I'm a little nervous about how the pH controller will work. If I currently have a pH of around 8.0 and the controller dictates when and how much CO2 to release, I'm worried that my fish might get gassed. I plan on slowly dropping the pH to my desired level. I'm not sure if it is my water or my substrate/rocks that raises my pH. If I do a large water change, I don't want to have wild pH swings or a dangerous level of CO2 in my tank. I guess it's just going to take some time and tinkering to get it all figured out.
 
I would start around 7.8 and incrementally drop it.
What is the pH of your tap water?
Any idea of the GH/KH? My understanding is that the higher those values are, the more buffers are available to prevent pH swings.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
I have not tested the pH of my well water. I will do that tonite. As for GH/KH I don't have a test for them yet. They should be delivered tomorrow. And I believe that is correct, higher numbers = greater buffering capacity. But if higher GH/KH has more buffering capacity, will it require more CO2 to lower my pH to the desired level? Maybe I will just have to settle for a slightly higher pH.
 
Back
Top Bottom